kentlighting
New member
Float switches installed on the Ato tank!
Kentlighting's 225gallon Build
- Thread starter kentlighting
- Start date
Float switches installed on the Ato tank!
kentlighting
New member
here are a couple of pics from tonight's plumbing. we still need to plumb in the floating frag tank, calcium reactor, chiller, GFO reactor, and one more drain line. After that, it will be all of the electronics.
kentlighting
New member
kentlighting
New member
So we put water in it today!
Here are some pics.
Here are some pics.
kentlighting
New member
kentlighting
New member
Alright, So I guess its time to update this.
The Tank has been up for about a week now. Its looking good. Still a ton to do though. Here are some pics.
Here is a Full Tank Shot
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
And some close ups...
Left
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
Center:
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
Right:
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
More of the Build to follow
Down The Side:
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
The Tank has been up for about a week now. Its looking good. Still a ton to do though. Here are some pics.
Here is a Full Tank Shot
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
And some close ups...
Left
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
Center:
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
Right:
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
More of the Build to follow
Down The Side:
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
kentlighting
New member
So All the LEDs are mounted and my super feeder is in place.
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
I used these brackets I found at home depot in the lumber section:
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
24 of the Leds arn't working quiet yet. I am waiting on parts to arrive to finish building the interconnect box. But all the Moon lights are working. I got the moon light kit from Rapid LED. 4 of them with a driver and berquest pads to mount them were under $20 a great deal. 4 of them are the perfect amount of light for this tank.
Here is the moon light driver:
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
Another shot of inside the canopy:
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
I used these brackets I found at home depot in the lumber section:
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
24 of the Leds arn't working quiet yet. I am waiting on parts to arrive to finish building the interconnect box. But all the Moon lights are working. I got the moon light kit from Rapid LED. 4 of them with a driver and berquest pads to mount them were under $20 a great deal. 4 of them are the perfect amount of light for this tank.
Here is the moon light driver:
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
Another shot of inside the canopy:
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
kentlighting
New member
I built this breakout box last night. I already had one that allows me to connect 6 dry contact switches to my apex (float switchs, water on the floor, magnetic sensors etc) but I've quickly filled it up and wanted more room.
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
The two buttons on the bottom are pretty cool I think. One I have programed to run the super feeder if I want to add a bit of extra food. the other is used to start the refill sequence of my ATO resivor which stops when the Resivor is filled. Explained better: I bring 5 gallon jug of RO/DI water in put a hose in connected to an aqualifter pump, I press the button, It starts pumping continues untill the High float switch in the ATO resivor is triggered by the water level rising and shuts off the pump. this sequence wont happen again till I press the button.
Right now the Dry Contact Switches connected to the apex are as follows
1) Sump LOW - Float (will shut off heater and return if water level falls drasticly low in the pump section of the sump, prevents equipment operating dry)
2) Sump HIGH - Float (triggers Automatic Top OFF of fresh water to tank)
3) ATO Resivor LOW - Float (Triggers a text message notification to me to refill ATO resivor with fresh water)
4) ATO Resivor HIGH - Float (stops refill squence of Resivor)
5) Cabinet Doors Sensor - Magnetic Sensor (Triggers the work lights in the Cabinet to turn on or off when doors are open or closed)
6) Feed Mode Activate - Momentary Push Button (triggers extra feed cycle outside of normal timed routine)
7) ATO Resivor Refill sequence activate - momentary push button (Starts the refill sequence of the ATO resivor)
Future:
8) Frag Tank HIGH - float (will turn off the return pump if an spill is about to occur from the frag tank/ send text notification and Audible alarm)
9) Display tank HIGH - Float or Pressure (same as above)
10) Water on the floor sensor (same as above will have multiple 1-2 in the stand and 1-2 outside of the stand
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
The two buttons on the bottom are pretty cool I think. One I have programed to run the super feeder if I want to add a bit of extra food. the other is used to start the refill sequence of my ATO resivor which stops when the Resivor is filled. Explained better: I bring 5 gallon jug of RO/DI water in put a hose in connected to an aqualifter pump, I press the button, It starts pumping continues untill the High float switch in the ATO resivor is triggered by the water level rising and shuts off the pump. this sequence wont happen again till I press the button.
Right now the Dry Contact Switches connected to the apex are as follows
1) Sump LOW - Float (will shut off heater and return if water level falls drasticly low in the pump section of the sump, prevents equipment operating dry)
2) Sump HIGH - Float (triggers Automatic Top OFF of fresh water to tank)
3) ATO Resivor LOW - Float (Triggers a text message notification to me to refill ATO resivor with fresh water)
4) ATO Resivor HIGH - Float (stops refill squence of Resivor)
5) Cabinet Doors Sensor - Magnetic Sensor (Triggers the work lights in the Cabinet to turn on or off when doors are open or closed)
6) Feed Mode Activate - Momentary Push Button (triggers extra feed cycle outside of normal timed routine)
7) ATO Resivor Refill sequence activate - momentary push button (Starts the refill sequence of the ATO resivor)
Future:
8) Frag Tank HIGH - float (will turn off the return pump if an spill is about to occur from the frag tank/ send text notification and Audible alarm)
9) Display tank HIGH - Float or Pressure (same as above)
10) Water on the floor sensor (same as above will have multiple 1-2 in the stand and 1-2 outside of the stand
kentlighting
New member
Here are some pictures from underneath the stand (note the wiring still needs to be cleaned up) :
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
This is the Fuge Tank Light, 7 XP-G warm white LEDS with 40 degree lenses
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
Here are the EB8s for the APEX (they acutally do the power switching for the many devices that are controlled)
Picture 004 by kentlighting, on Flickr
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
This is the Fuge Tank Light, 7 XP-G warm white LEDS with 40 degree lenses
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
Here are the EB8s for the APEX (they acutally do the power switching for the many devices that are controlled)
Picture 004 by kentlighting, on Flickr
kentlighting
New member
Here are the chiller and the CO2 bottle in their new home, behind some DVD shelves. Note: the output of the chiller ventilation is pointed away from the Co2 cylinder so it wont be blowing direct heat on it
Picture 006 by kentlighting, on Flickr
Picture 005 by kentlighting, on Flickr
Here are the Probes for the APEX (red: ORP black: Temp blue: PH)
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
I will be adding conductivity (reads how much salt is in the water) PH of Calcium Reactor to trigger release of CO2 into the reactor, PH of Kalk reactor to have an Idea of when to refill it, and because it's only 30 bucks a temp probe to read Air temp in the room.
Here are the GFO and Carbon Reactors. Im waiting on a 1/2" john guest elbow to get rid of that kink in the tube. the little white gaget with the green wire coming out of it is the magnetic switch for the cabinet lights. there is a magnet mounted to the door to trigger it.
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
Here is the Return section of the Sump
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
I'd like to change out the Heater for a titanium one eventually.
Sorry for the crappy cellphone pictures. I was rusing to take them before work today.
I'll post more as more work is done.
I'd Like to give Dennis from Aquatic empires for helping with some of the pictures and posts!
Picture 006 by kentlighting, on Flickr
Picture 005 by kentlighting, on Flickr
Here are the Probes for the APEX (red: ORP black: Temp blue: PH)
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
I will be adding conductivity (reads how much salt is in the water) PH of Calcium Reactor to trigger release of CO2 into the reactor, PH of Kalk reactor to have an Idea of when to refill it, and because it's only 30 bucks a temp probe to read Air temp in the room.
Here are the GFO and Carbon Reactors. Im waiting on a 1/2" john guest elbow to get rid of that kink in the tube. the little white gaget with the green wire coming out of it is the magnetic switch for the cabinet lights. there is a magnet mounted to the door to trigger it.
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
Here is the Return section of the Sump
Untitled by kentlighting, on Flickr
I'd like to change out the Heater for a titanium one eventually.
Sorry for the crappy cellphone pictures. I was rusing to take them before work today.
I'll post more as more work is done.
I'd Like to give Dennis from Aquatic empires for helping with some of the pictures and posts!
kentlighting
New member
I'm more concerned about exposed electrical connections than the jacket of the wiring succumbing to the environment. the black stuff you see is Liquid electrical tape. You can pick it up at any home depot or lowes. if the exposed metal started to corrode that can travel under the jacket of the wire and start issues. but with any exposed metal covered it greatly reduces/ eliminates that issue
Last edited:
kentlighting
New member
I like to apply it pretty heavy. It's nice cause you can still get the probe of a multimeter into it if you need to do any trouble shooting.
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kentlighting
New member
Not yet, the slimmer I want is on back order. I'm going with an aquamaxx cone 2 skimmer. Hopefully with in a month I'll have a slimmer on it.
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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=36.114059,-115.177376
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kentlighting
New member
The Chiller is just insurance. I live in the desert. Last Thing I'd want to happen is for the AC to go out in the home when its 100+ degrees out, I'd be screwed. or an idiot room mate chooses to make the house a bit warmer for what ever reason.
Fishnthecorner
New member
Very nice build indeed!
kentlighting
New member
Thank you!
I made 1 of two new interconnect boxes the other day and mounted it and the drivers In their final resting position. I still need to get 4 more drivers and make the other interconnect box and the lighting for the whole system will be done. Here are some pictures
These are all mounted in the canopy
I also mounted the LEDs or the frag tank in the stand.
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