Kessil and RBTA?

[Ztrain]

I'm getting ready to try another anemone now that my tank is at the 6 month point. So I have a Kessil 150 Ocean blue but am considering upgrading. The light seems to have no green. The Algae I do have looks brown instead of green under this light. So I am considering the 160 or the 360. I've heard that the 160 is the exactly same spectrum outputs as the 360 just with less power behind it. For my small 30g tank would it be better to use a 160 at near full or go with the 360 and not run it at full power?

Anyone have long term success with BTAs and Kessil lights?

oops posted this as a reply in another thread meant to make a new thread.

 

[m0nkie]

I don't have the 160, but I love my 360. I have several types of anemones and they are all doing great. BTA split about once every 7 months and all the clones are doing great too

 

[rbla51]

I have a lta that seems to hate my kessil 150 s . lt backed as far as it could to get out of the direct light. Its actually bleached on about 20 percent of its body

 

[Ztrain]

I have a lta that seems to hate my kessil 150 s . lt backed as far as it could to get out of the direct light. Its actually bleached on about 20 percent of its body

Which do you have? I have the Ocean Blue and my last anemone seemed to hate it. I was wondering if it was the brand but seeing the success many people have been having with them maybe just the spectrum or the nem. But I'm really at looking at getting a whiter light. So I am thinking of getting the 160 or 360 so I can have it white and see what the colors are supposed to look like but then in the evening have it ramp down in brightness and go to the 20k spectrum for a bit before turning off for the evening.

 

[D-Nak]

What are the dimensions of your 30? I have two 24" x 24 x 12" flats and each have a Kessil A350w on them. Each tank has an anemone in it -- one haddoni and one magnifica. The mag likes a lot of light, so I have the fixture set at about 65% W/B while the haddoni likes slightly lower levels, so I have it set at about 45% W and 55% B. In other words, I have a lot of wiggle room with the intensity.

If you can find a used A350W that may be a good option because you'll have more flexibility. Since the A160 is relatively new, it may even be the more expensive than a used A350 (one is selling locally for $175). If you want the ability to ramp up and down, then of course the A160 and A360 are your only options. I personally see no added benefit of ramping up and down except that it looks cool. I have Radions on my DT so I have the ability to play around with ramping, which is probably why I don't care as much on the other tanks.

I housed a pair of BTAs in my QT tank that has a A150 Ocean Blue. It's too blue for my taste, but the nems really popped:

I liked the way they looked a lot better under whiter light though:

Any way you go, I think you'll be fine with BTAs. They need some time to adjust to the light, but once acclimated, they do fine.

 

[Ztrain]

Yeah I got a short tentacle GBTA. One that is short but TONS of tentacles. I think I'm going to go with a long tentacle rose this time. I've heard they are much hardier. Which I can believe since they seem to be the more popular type people sell off their splits so they're more used to captive tanks. My clowns are always out in the light even though they have many shaded places to hide and the Hawkfish is always in the shade unless he thinks I'm going to feed him to each their own. I thought I'd like the blue with higher contrast but now that I've had several months with the color it's the worst of both worlds. I'd like to have a better crisper white during the day and then the dark blue at night. So it'll be a 160 or 360. The 360 is the stable of Kessil and when people are talking about how awesome the Kessils are it's generally a 360 they're talking about. I called Kessil today and they said the light spectrum on the 160 is identical to the 360 just less duplication in the LEDs so less bright and less power requirements.

 

[Gmerek2]

What are the dimensions of your 30? I have two 24" x 24 x 12" flats and each have a Kessil A350w on them. Each tank has an anemone in it -- one haddoni and one magnifica. The mag likes a lot of light, so I have the fixture set at about 65% W/B while the haddoni likes slightly lower levels, so I have it set at about 45% W and 55% B. In other words, I have a lot of wiggle room with the intensity.

If you can find a used A350W that may be a good option because you'll have more flexibility. Since the A160 is relatively new, it may even be the more expensive than a used A350 (one is selling locally for $175). If you want the ability to ramp up and down, then of course the A160 and A360 are your only options. I personally see no added benefit of ramping up and down except that it looks cool. I have Radions on my DT so I have the ability to play around with ramping, which is probably why I don't care as much on the other tanks.

I housed a pair of BTAs in my QT tank that has a A150 Ocean Blue. It's too blue for my taste, but the nems really popped:

I liked the way they looked a lot better under whiter light though:

Any way you go, I think you'll be fine with BTAs. They need some time to adjust to the light, but once acclimated, they do fine.

Are these sunburst? Where are they from

 

[D-Nak]

Yeah I got a short tentacle GBTA. One that is short but TONS of tentacles. I think I'm going to go with a long tentacle rose this time. I've heard they are much hardier. Which I can believe since they seem to be the more popular type people sell off their splits so they're more used to captive tanks. My clowns are always out in the light even though they have many shaded places to hide and the Hawkfish is always in the shade unless he thinks I'm going to feed him to each their own. I thought I'd like the blue with higher contrast but now that I've had several months with the color it's the worst of both worlds. I'd like to have a better crisper white during the day and then the dark blue at night. So it'll be a 160 or 360. The 360 is the stable of Kessil and when people are talking about how awesome the Kessils are it's generally a 360 they're talking about. I called Kessil today and they said the light spectrum on the 160 is identical to the 360 just less duplication in the LEDs so less bright and less power requirements.

There's no such thing as a short or long tentacle BTA. No one knows why the tentacles bubble or elongate, but they rarely stay one way or the other. I've had BTAs that had half bubble tips while the other half were long and stringy. I used to think the shape had to do with buoyancy but it could be anything... Water parameters, lighting, flow, even the interaction with a clown.

Are these sunburst? Where are they from

I was holding them for a friend of mine. He tried to force propagate them and it ended in disaster. I nursed two halves back to health but the other halves died. IIRC, both were from Coral Collection, one a flametip and the other a lemon drop.

 

[Gmerek2]

Yea I havnt tried to slice mine ever since I heard that they are harder to recover than RBTA

 

[clorox]

I have both the 160 and 360 on my 24x24x12 gig tank and they love it. Both are connected to a Kessil controller. I ramp up and down on a 12 hour schedule with 100% intensity between noon and 1pm, then ramping down until they turn off at 9pm.

With rbta's you would want to use lower intensity. The shimmer and color pop of kessils is second to none. On my DT I use radion.