Kevin McG 300+build

Kevin McG

Member
Hello everybody,

I am in the planning process of my new in-wall 300. The tank will be 6' (long) x 3' (front to back) x 28" (top to bottom) and will be a little over 300 gallons.

I am going to run an internal overflow(approximately 6" x 6") the entire 6' with a slanted floor front to back to reduce bubbles and minimize shadow casting in the tank itself.

Retun pump will most likely be a ReeFlo Dart and it will drive a ocean motion 4-way feeding the four corners of the tank with something that will rotate the flow, ocean motion has something I believe that does this.

Additional flow will consist of 2-3 Vortechs on a controller.

This tank will take a while I am going to re-do the tank room the way it should of been done with the old 180in-wall. Walls need painting, floor needs refinishing and possibly new cabinets :)

I have done a some 3D models of the tank but I am sure things will change as I go.

Input is welcomed also!! :)


77585aquarium_assembly7.jpg


77585aquarium_assembly6.jpg


77585aquarium_assembly.jpg
 
Just got the quote back from the tank builder(glasscages) and looks like I am going to go with a 25" tall instead of the original 28".
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72 x 36 x 28 tall glass aquarium $ 1600.00
Starphire front $ 300.00
2 holes $ 50.00
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Total $ 1950.00

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72 x 36 x 25 tall glass aquarium $ 790.00
Starphire front $ 138.00
2 holes $ 50.00
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Total $ 978.00
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14379800#post14379800 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Kevin McG
Just got the quote back from the tank builder(glasscages) and looks like I am going to go with a 25" tall instead of the original 28".
:lol:

It's crazy how big of a difference that little height makes isn't it :confused:

Looks good so far... any reason your not opting for an EXT OF box? It makes such a clean line for in-wall tanks IMO.


Love your avatar too, is that your vanity plate? I almost got one that said "REEFER", but being in Ann Arbor that'd mean something different to 99.9% of the public, particularly the PO-PO's ;), so I opted out.
 
Kevin,
Good lcuk on the build.

OM has just what you need for your return. I am running a OM 4 way on a C/L with a reef flow baraccuda pump in my 400G. The returns are similar to what you explained. I have two returns on the right side in each corner near the top flowing across the water and two on the left side corners near the bottom with a 45 elbow pointing towards the surface. It makes for a CW and CCW water movement in the tank which works out great.

The only caution is to make sure the returns are far enough under the water so that they do not cause a vortex in the surface and suck air into the water colum causing bubbles.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14379849#post14379849 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stunreefer
:lol:

It's crazy how big of a difference that little height makes isn't it :confused:

Looks good so far... any reason your not opting for an EXT OF box? It makes such a clean line for in-wall tanks IMO.


Love your avatar too, is that your vanity plate? I almost got one that said "REEFER", but being in Ann Arbor that'd mean something different to 99.9% of the public, particularly the PO-PO's ;), so I opted out.


Yea it is crazy but I believe the glass can be 1/2" thick with the 25" height but 3/4" would be needed for the 28" and that means a lot more $$. I was tossing around the idea of doing an external of the same size but an internal just seemed better to me. I can change that at anytime though since I will be making the overflow myself :)

The vanity picture isn't an actual plate on my car there is a website(can't remember for the life of me) that will put anything you want and you select the state....pretty cool but that on my car would probably not get thru the DMV up here in NH.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14379997#post14379997 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Crusty Old Shellback
Kevin,
Good lcuk on the build.

OM has just what you need for your return. I am running a OM 4 way on a C/L with a reef flow baraccuda pump in my 400G. The returns are similar to what you explained. I have two returns on the right side in each corner near the top flowing across the water and two on the left side corners near the bottom with a 45 elbow pointing towards the surface. It makes for a CW and CCW water movement in the tank which works out great.

The only caution is to make sure the returns are far enough under
the water so that they do not cause a vortex in the surface and suck air into the water colum causing bubbles.


Thanks, I would love to see some pictures of that if you have some handy, are you running the revolutions made by OM? I remember somebody with something called sea swirls but can't find anything on them.


I also(after thinking a bit) that the 25" height will help a lot with lighting the tank, I was planning on going full T5's.

I am a little bummed that he volume will only be about 280 gallons, I really wanted to be in the 300 gallon club :)
 
Click on my little red house for pics and my thread. ;)

I'm not running anything on the output. Just a 1 1/2" open pipe into the tank. One end is just the black bulkhead fittings. The end near the bottom is bulkheads and a 45 degree black pipe. Thta part is covered by rocks now so you really don't see them.

Oh and trust me, having a deep tank is cool but it's a pain to clean. Mines 36" deep. ;)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14414419#post14414419 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Crusty Old Shellback
Click on my little red house for pics and my thread. ;)

I'm not running anything on the output. Just a 1 1/2" open pipe into the tank. One end is just the black bulkhead fittings. The end near the bottom is bulkheads and a 45 degree black pipe. Thta part is covered by rocks now so you really don't see them.

Oh and trust me, having a deep tank is cool but it's a pain to clean. Mines 36" deep. ;)

Thanks I'll check it out, the tank is going to be 25" not 36", it is going to be 36" front to back(deep)
 
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