KH/Al Correct Range

[alanbates12]

Hello I"m new to the hobby and learning a lot. Right now I"m trying to learn patience with the chemistry part of it but I"m a type A personality. My tank is a 180 and its been up and running for 3 months. Most all my chemical levels have stabilized for now but the KH/Al are still high. I've heard high is better than low but I'd like to get it close to the range where it needs to be. Right now its at KH 12.8 and Al is 4.57. I"ll also give you my levels and they have been steady for the past 2 months. Salinity 33, SG 1.024/1.025, Temp 78, Ammonia 0.5 and I did a water change today, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 20, Phosphate 0.5, PH 8.4 Ca 450, Mg 1350, KH/Al 12.8/4.57. Two months ago when I started logging everything my KH/Al was 15.7/5.60 and appears to continue to get closer to being in the correct range. Is this something I can work on or will it correct itself over time? Also I've not got an RODI in place yet but I'm getting my salt water from the LFS and my RO water I'm buying from a machine in a local grocery store. Could this be part of my problem? I do think the lack of an RODI has aided in my green hair algae issue. Any input would be great and thanks for reading my post.. :wave: Also what will a elaveted KH/AL do to the tank?

 

[meshwheel]

Hello Alan,
Welcome to Reef Centrals Chemistry forum! Yes, try to have patience! Only bad things happen fast in this hobby!
But it is truly a rewarding hobby that never ceases to fascinate me!
Lets sequence this so it's less confusing for you:
1. Most salt mixes are overly high in KH Alan. Usually in a reeftank with corals they use up the KH/alk pretty quick if all other params are in check. Just give it time. If the tank is not heavily stocked you could safely cut back on water changes. This will let the alk/KH lower further. I keep mine very close to natural seawater levels. Around 8.0 KH. However, up to 10 is fine!!!! It will drop if you slow up on water changes.
2. Saltwater purchased at the petstore: Usually the natural seawater has nitrates. At least in my area anyway. I have tested and got readings up to 10 ppm. So for a fine tuned reef tank that is not good in my opinion! Changing out water with less nitrates then the new water you are adding! Mix you own! It's safer and cleaner!
3. Filtered water: You should be testing that filtered water from the machine at the market! IT more then likely still has chlorine in it! This could kill off your bacteria that actually filter your tank water Alan! So test it! OR better yet, purchase you own RO DI system! You can use it for drinking water too. Many people have given up on the hobby not realizing that they kept adding chlorine back into their tank! And never letting it get completely cycled!
Your ammonia levels should read ZERO!!!! If you have green hair algae then your tank bacterial load is just one of the things thats not in check!
Your Nitrates are too high as well! Make your own saltwater for starters. It sounds to me like your adding chlorine to the tank if you are getting ammonia readings with your test kit.
I have been using Brighwells neomarine salt, as it seems to have a closer to natural seawater KH level. This would help you!
There are also bacterial supplements out there you can add to teh tank to help boost and diversify the bacteria population in your tank.
You are certainly in the right forum. There's alot of very smart people on here to get you on track!
Keep us posted and get that tank water chemistry where iot needs to be so the animals can thrive!
Thanks!

 

[meshwheel]

Alan,
I forgot to mention. A elevated KH will knock down your calcium levels!!! So, once you get the KH in the correct range, it will allow your calcium levels to be more consistent and stay up at normal levels. It sounds like you are right on that fine line. Your calcium tested at 420 so you sound good to me.............

 

[bertoni]

The usual recommended range for dKH is 7-11. Some people running ULNS methods seem to have troubles with dKH much over 7 or so. People have run as high as 18 dKH without problems, though.

I would worry about the ammonia level, since any measurable level is bad. I'd get a second opinion on the test kit, since they often fail and read small amounts of ammonia in everything. Mine did. I'd also dose some Amquel, too, to bind the ammonia and make it non-toxic.

The quality of the water from a store filter depends a lot on how well the filter is maintained. I would trust distilled water more than most filtered water, although it can be very expensive.

 

[bertoni]

The usual recommended range for dKH is 7-11. Some people running ULNS methods seem to have troubles with dKH much over 7 or so. People have run as high as 18 dKH without problems, though.

I would worry about the ammonia level, since any measurable level is bad. I'd get a second opinion on the test kit, since they often fail and read small amounts of ammonia in everything. Mine did. I'd also dose some Amquel, too, to bind the ammonia and make it non-toxic.

The quality of the water from a store filter depends a lot on how well the filter is maintained. I would trust distilled water more than most filtered water, although it can be very expensive.

 

[alanbates12]

Thanks for the info. Last night I did add some Nutrafin for the ammonia levels. Used the maintenance dose of 5cc per 10gallons. Probably the most important piece of info I left out from my first post. I had just added a new fish, a PBT. I've been told this can elevate your ammonia levels. If so what do I do about an elevated level after something new is added? But also I've checked my water levels from my store bought RO water and they are, PH7.8, Nitrite 0, Nitrates 10, Ammonia 0, Ca 80, Kh/ALK 9.6/3.43 and the Mg could not see a water color change on the test. So I can see a RODI system is a must and will be set up at the end of the month. Guess I know what I'm getting for Christmas. But what about adding the new fish. could this be why my ammonia level is elevated? If so what do I do about it? I have accounted for all my fish and don't think anything is dead in the tank. Besides a CUC and the fish I have two corals and I think one is a Trumpet coral and the other I'm not sure. The Trumpet corals don't look very good and the other is something round and purple. Maybe some kind of leather not sure. I've tried to add an anemone, 3 to be exact, and all have died. Guess my tank is to new and water quality not the best. Also the green algae is not helping. That's a new issue I need to address. I think once I get my RODI set up and a new sump with a refugium it will help.

 

[meshwheel]

Alan,
I am suspecting the store bought water has chlorine in it. This is why you have ammonia reading. And or your test kit is off.
Adding one fish to a 180 gallon tank should not give you ammonia readings.
Get a chlorine test kit and check that water. If your adding chlorine to the tank, its killing off good bacteria and kicking the tank into a small cycle........

 

[alanbates12]

I'm getting my water from a vending machine, Glacier. I called them and they said there will be small amounts of chlorine in it. What will this do to my tank? Could this have killed my anemone. And killed the coals I've tried to put in?

 

[bertoni]

You can use a dechlorinator for the moment, but a RO/DI filter is the best approach for the long haul.

 

[meshwheel]

Alan,
I figured there was!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That will do a real number on a tanks biology!!!! Your trying to build it up, and the chlorine is killing it!!!
Do NOT use that water anymore. Or like Jonathon said, use a de-chlorinator!

 

[MaLi]

Alan,

get out of Glacier ! It is only a RO unit without DI. In this hobby the DI part is the most important.

cheers,
MaLi.

PS. Look up the classified forum. You should be able to find a RO/DI unit for less and you will have to buy just the filters.