Korallin 1502
- Thread starter AJDuran
- Start date
The suitability of a given Ca reactor for a particular tank size has nothing to do with the manufacturer and more to do with the size of the reactor. You're looking for as much dissolved media as you can get at a reasonable pH and effluent drip rate. The higher the required drip rate the lower the pH needs to be (thereby lowering your tank's pH) -- OR -- the larger the reactor volume.
Larger reactor volumes allow a larger volume of media to be dissolved by increasing the contact time with the low pH water. With higher contact times you don't need the reactor pH to be as low to dissolve the same amount of media. In other words, at a given effluent rate, the water volume of a larger reactor will turn over more slowly than that of a smaller reactor.
The chemistry is the same no matter whose bottle and recirculating pump you buy.
Larger reactor volumes allow a larger volume of media to be dissolved by increasing the contact time with the low pH water. With higher contact times you don't need the reactor pH to be as low to dissolve the same amount of media. In other words, at a given effluent rate, the water volume of a larger reactor will turn over more slowly than that of a smaller reactor.
The chemistry is the same no matter whose bottle and recirculating pump you buy.
chris4869
New member
Ashby, between the two I would get the Geo if space isn't an issue. The Korallin is more compact if you're limited in space.
My Korallin 1502 has been running flawlessly for me, but I did run into some issues (like leaky drip valve) when I first set it up. They were minor, but I guess it can drive others crazy.
My Korallin 1502 has been running flawlessly for me, but I did run into some issues (like leaky drip valve) when I first set it up. They were minor, but I guess it can drive others crazy.
Garage1217
GET OFF MY LAWN
Ah was gonna chime in, LOVE my 1502. Great little reactor! Bought mine used as well & dumped some cash into upgrading little things on it.
I swpaeed out the top for the pH probe top and got ridf of the cheesy in-line effluent valve for a nice plastic needle valve that threads right into the effluent plumbing. Put a JG fitting on the end and presto! A nice, stable effluent drip. No leaks and finally (with the AP electronic regulator) a set-and-forget Ca reactor.
Here's what you need to do the 'JT Korallin Mod' on the Korallin Ca Reactor. All parts are from USPlastics.com:
#30201 1/4" x Close CPVC Nipple $ 1.09
#22299 1/4" FNPT x 1/4" FNPT PVC Needle Valve $ 8.95
#58152 Super Speedfit (R) 1/4" Tube OD x 1/4" Thread MNPT $ 1.53
Just unscrew the existing tubing fitting on the end of the effluent plumbing on the Korallin. Teflon tape the full length of the 1/4" close nipple (making sure the tape stays away from the openings). Thread into the effluent plumbing. Snug in with pliers but make sure to wrap some cloth around the close nipple and only grab as tight as is necessary to snug it in. Don't deform the threads. Thread the needle valve onto the close nipple. Teflon tape the 'SpeedFit fitting (aka John Guest) and thread that into the end of the needle valve. That's it.
Here's another part of the mod that isn't evident in the pictures but is very handy.
Drip Chamber
Get a 2 to 2.5" section of clear 5/8" ID tube (rigid is best if you've got it). Generously teflon tape two 1/4" x 3/8" SpeedFit fittings
#58202 Super Speedfit (R) 1/4" Tube OD x 3/8" Thread MNPT $ 2.02
Insert a ~1" piece of (preferably rigid but at least straight) tubing into the threaded end of one fitting. Then insert one fitting into each end of the 5/8" OD tube. Secure so the entire assembly is vertical and the fitting with the short tube in it is on top. This makes a handy drip gauge. The short 1" insert tube prevents the effluent from just running down the inside of the drip chamber.
While you're ordering from USPlastics pick up a couple plastic check valves. I use one on my Ca Reactor (my brass one was toast) and one on my ATO feed line from my RO/DI unit. They're cheap and come in handy. They're also available threaded and with hose barbs.
22296 PVC Check Valves with with Buna-N Seals 1/4" OD-J.Guest, 2 3/4" x 1" $ 8.10
#30201 1/4" x Close CPVC Nipple $ 1.09
#22299 1/4" FNPT x 1/4" FNPT PVC Needle Valve $ 8.95
#58152 Super Speedfit (R) 1/4" Tube OD x 1/4" Thread MNPT $ 1.53
Just unscrew the existing tubing fitting on the end of the effluent plumbing on the Korallin. Teflon tape the full length of the 1/4" close nipple (making sure the tape stays away from the openings). Thread into the effluent plumbing. Snug in with pliers but make sure to wrap some cloth around the close nipple and only grab as tight as is necessary to snug it in. Don't deform the threads. Thread the needle valve onto the close nipple. Teflon tape the 'SpeedFit fitting (aka John Guest) and thread that into the end of the needle valve. That's it.
Here's another part of the mod that isn't evident in the pictures but is very handy.
Drip Chamber
Get a 2 to 2.5" section of clear 5/8" ID tube (rigid is best if you've got it). Generously teflon tape two 1/4" x 3/8" SpeedFit fittings
#58202 Super Speedfit (R) 1/4" Tube OD x 3/8" Thread MNPT $ 2.02
Insert a ~1" piece of (preferably rigid but at least straight) tubing into the threaded end of one fitting. Then insert one fitting into each end of the 5/8" OD tube. Secure so the entire assembly is vertical and the fitting with the short tube in it is on top. This makes a handy drip gauge. The short 1" insert tube prevents the effluent from just running down the inside of the drip chamber.
While you're ordering from USPlastics pick up a couple plastic check valves. I use one on my Ca Reactor (my brass one was toast) and one on my ATO feed line from my RO/DI unit. They're cheap and come in handy. They're also available threaded and with hose barbs.
22296 PVC Check Valves with with Buna-N Seals 1/4" OD-J.Guest, 2 3/4" x 1" $ 8.10
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