Korallin Calcium Reactor

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I know that was a lot of questions to ask all at once. Be honest I did read the whole thread...and the very detailed responses that you gave, Ive actually been following this thread for much longer than before I decided to purchase this unit. I will print out and re-read again and try and visualize everything again.
 
OK-

I setup my reactor and followed the instructions based on the info that Dragon Slayer sent me, but I have encountered a few problems. First problem is that many of the gate valves leak when back pressure is put on them. Second is when I turned on the gas on the tank it started leaking out from where it is supposed to attach to the regulator. Should I trottle this thing on really tight with some channel lock pliers. Also, after opening the gas valve on the tank it shot a bunch of C02 into the reactor and made the pump start cavitating. Also, I replace all the lines to the reactor b/c they were bad and I used 1/4" OD silicone line. I also have the Ice Maker line but I found it wasnt as flexible and prone to kinking. It seems like the lines I took off were a smaller diameter could this be the source of the leak at the gate valve?
 
If you have John Guest quick fittings you need to use the ice maker line and try not to bend it tight (I see not reason why).
The connectors seal using a small O ring that fits to the outside diameter of the tubing so the tubing has to be a bit rigid and the proper diameter.

Vinyl washer inside the regulator housing? I am guessing here but the regulator attachment to the cylinder is a CGA connection 520 that uses a plastic washetr to seal the regulator to the cylinder valve, is this one you are referring to? what about it?

How is the CO2 hose attached to the regulator? is it an insert, which regulator is it? does it have a bubble counter and the tubing attaches to the top of the counter?
What is your set pressure at the output of the regulator?

To prevent cavitation vent the air or CO2 trapped on top of the chamber by opening the effluent valve 1 (Ausgang), the one comming directly out of the top of the chamber.
 
adding to what jdieck said......

the original gate valves included with Korallin reactors are very prone to leaking, they should be replaced with JG fittings. and the icemaker tubing then used. you shouldn't have such a tight radius of a bend as to kink the tubing or flexible tubing will soon be kinked as well. the ridged tubing is less likely to kink/collapse over time and cause a blockage.

your CO2 tank to regulator connection should have a Teflon washer between them. this is a ONE TIME USE item and should be replaced any time the regulator is removed and reinstalled. if you didn't use a new one you need to get one and then tighten it with a properly fitting wrench, not pliers.

also you may have to tip the reactor on its side to evacuate all the air/CO2 from the pump to stop the cavitation.

hth
kc
 
jdieck-

page 16 has a picture of the regulator. I bought all this stuff without instructions which is why I am totally clueless. I have ordered some speed fittings and new JG gate valves to cure the leaking problem. Do you know if I can pick up a new teflon washer at home depot or should I go back to the welding shop?
 
You can try Home Depot. If they have CO2 welding they might have one, if not the welding shop surely will give you some. If you are missing this packing that is the reason the cylinder valve will leak.

Now by your description I think you opened the cylinder valve when the regulator knob was also open (screwed in). Try not to do that, the shock on the low pressure side may damage the regulator diaphragm or the output gauge.

The proper way before opening the cylinder valve is to loosen the regulator knob all the way out (Counterclockwise) until it feels a bit loose. Then open the cylinder valve slowly, insure there is no leak, then slowly screw in the regulator Knob (clockwise) until the ouput gauge reads the pressure you are looking for (15 to 25 psi).
 
Replaced the gate valves that came stock with the reactor and used the ice maker line. Everything seems to be dialed in. After a few days the pH in the tank has dropped from 8.3 to 8.1 and the dkh is at 13ppm and the calcium is at 420ppm. The effluent from the reactor fluctuates btwn 6.5 and 7.2 pH and the dkh is also around 13ppm. Any suggestions?
 
Yes, that's what I use; the vinyl/nylon 1/4" tubing and the quick disconnect valves. I've also replace the fiber under the media using screen door mesh.
 
drewdegenhardt said:
........The effluent from the reactor fluctuates btwn 6.5 and 7.2 pH and the dkh is also around 13ppm. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

the reactor should not fluctuate, it should depending on the media your using be constant around 6.7

your effluent dKH should also be upward of 30 coming out of the reactor.

kc
 
Dragon slayer can you confirm what exit has the large amount of driprate , is it the one on the top of the reactor or the one next to the co2 entry ? (korallin 1501) as i seem to be getting some contradictory info and having problems with bubble forming in top of reactor.

Thank you
 
you can use either and have the same results. i use the one on the pump plumbing myself with a minimal drip rate out of the top of the reactor to keep the bubble from forming. you can use the top only and completely prevent the bubble. the reason for not using it is so if you get an OD of CO2 the reactor will effectively shut down when the pump starts to cavitate.

kc
 
Dragon How can one determine if the pump is bad. I have been having an issue with Co2 forming at the top and also the effluent slowing down after a few days for the past 6 months. I have replaced the feed pump, changed the media, cleaned the pump a few times, replace the micro gate valves, refilled Co2 bottle. If I shut the Co2 off no big bubble at the top but the effluent still slows down. Any other ideas would be great


Mjag
 
with the reactor in full operation mode, you should be able to hear the CO2 bubbles getting chopped by the Eheim impeller as they pass through it along with water as it's recirculating in the reactor. aside from that a more definite way is to remove the pump and place it in your clean sink full of water and plug it in :)

the bubble in the top is due to excessive CO2, this can be caused by your effluent drip rate declining or just to much CO2 pumped into the reactor. the best cure here is to take your effluent directly from the top of the reactor, you'll never get a build up of CO2 that way.

if your using a very fine grade media the reaction chamber can have such a restriction on the flow from the recirculation pump that this can cause all of your problems as well, the best fix for that is to only place about 1/3 the media into the chamber, you'll also get a more fluidized media this way.

if none of those apply to you, i'd check the effluent lines going out as well as the feed lines coming in for clogging, algae can grow and restrict flow on the input if you use a translucent tube and light gets to it.


hth
kc
 
Thanks for the quick replay Dragon
Ok I can hear the bubble getting chopped up when its running, I also have removed the pump and set in the sink it does work. Also I can see some movement in the reactor. I run about 20 Ml/m and 10 Bpm. I also have changed all the lines due to this problem(black). And changed the media twice( different kinds).

I am running effluent off the top line, The bubble of Co2 at the top is not that bad But all that I have been reading states if you have this issue to much Co2 or the pump is not working. I am totally out of ideas.

Mjag
 
I just got the new 1502 lid with probe port and installed a controler and 2nd chamber. No bubble, pH went up 4 to 5 points from 7.6 in morn. and 78 at night to 8.1 and 8.2 at night. Money well spent. John
 
I have been things about getting that The last few times I ordered some stuff they were backorder. So it is on my list
Have any pics OWSi ?.


Mjag
 
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