Korallin Calcium Reactor

[jdieck]

Are the JG valves the ones like RO/DI's come with, where you push in the 1/4" tube?

Yes, those are the white body with blue handle and quick push in connectors.

Now having confirmed that, for improved flow control you may want to try needle valves. They are also avaialable with JG connectors. Take a look at item 22326

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pr...SPlastic&category_name=15615&product_id=15616

 

[thrlride]

Okay, now I need help!

I picked up the Korralin C1502 unit today and he gave me a brand new aquamedic regulator and aquamedic solenoid. How does this solenoid mount to the regulator?

Are these two items good?

 

[jdieck]

Okay, now I need help!

I picked up the Korralin C1502 unit today and he gave me a brand new aquamedic regulator and aquamedic solenoid. How does this solenoid mount to the regulator?

Are these two items good?

The Aquamedic Regulator and Solenoid are two separate units. They both have connectors for 6mm flexible hose.
To connect them use a hose from the output of the regulator to the inlet of the solenoid and from the solenoid to the bubble counter.
Note that the regulator's discharge pressure is pre-adjusted to about 1.5 bar (22 psi) so the only thing you will need to adjust is the needle valve to the bubble rate you look for.

A note of caution: The aquamedic is an European regulator which if sold in the US must be fitted with the CGA 320 connection to the CO2 Cylinder. When connecting the regulator to the cylinder thread it by hand first before using a wrench to tighten it. If you feel it does not fit properly or it can not be threaded by hand at least half way in it might have the European style connector.
Forcing the wrong connector may void the warranty, leaks may not be possible to leak and pose a serious safety hazzard as the regulator may come out flying when the 1000 psi or so pressure of the bottle is applied.

 

[thrlride]

dragon_slayer mentioned a check valve when talking about installing the reactor. Which piece is that from this picture?

<img src="http://www.premiumaquatics.com/m3/korallinC1501E.jpg">

I thought a check valve would stop the water from flowing through the bubble counter and then out of the CO2 tubing. Is this true?

It doesn't look like I have any parts missing but the water comes out of the CO2 tubing. Granted, I don't have the CO2 tubing hooked to the CO2 tank yet but should it be?

 

[jdieck]

Yes you need a mini Check Valve in the CO2 line after the solenoid and before the bubble counter to prevent water flowing back to the regulator when the CO2 is shut down.

There are several that will work but the Denerle has proven to be very reliable and long lasting:

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=DE1111

You can also use the brass valve but I try to avoit metal if possible:

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=KL3115

 

[thrlride]

The ball valve on the #1 output seems to be shot. Even when I shut it off all the way I still get almost a steady flow of water from it. #2 isn't like this, I can 'almost' stop the flow of water with this one. Will a regular john guest valve work for this?

 

[jdieck]

Yes they will work but I would recommend to use needle valves so you have a better flow control. JG valves are ball valves, not very sensitive.

 

[Jas0863]

The brass cylinderical piece with the two blue end caps is a check vlv.

 

[thrlride]

Where do you recommend getting the needle valves from?

 

[jdieck]

Yes, those are the white body with blue handle and quick push in connectors.

Now having confirmed that, for improved flow control you may want to try needle valves. They are also avaialable with JG connectors. Take a look at item 22326

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pr...SPlastic&category_name=15615&product_id=15616

 

[thrlride]

Thanks. I knew that I saw that sometime but couldn't remember where.

 

[jdieck]

Enjoy!

 

[thrlride]

Can anyone post pics of how they did the effluent cup?

I have the reactor going now and the PH of the effluent is 6.87 with ARM media. I haven't tested the dkh yet.

 

[jdieck]

Can anyone post pics of how they did the effluent cup?

I have the reactor going now and the PH of the effluent is 6.87 with ARM media. I haven't tested the dkh yet.

I just hanged a plastic cup on the inside of the sump and placed the effluent line and the PH probe inside and let it overflow.

Rmemeber to adjust the addition to keep contant alkalinity in the tank. Try to keep a constant effluent (about 45 to 60 ml/min range shall be enough). Adjust the adition by adjusting the effluent PH. 6.7 for initial set up shall be around right. Test your tank alkalinity every 24 hours and adjust the PH as needed. Once the alkalinity is maintained stable adjust your alkalinity and Calcium levels to were you want them to be using supplements and they will stay there maintained by the reactor.

If you are a techy oriented person, the following adjustment calculator might be of help, hope is not confusing...

http://home.comcast.net/~jdieck1/reactor.html

 

[thrlride]

Thanks jdieck!

I just tested the effluent the way dragon_slayer said to do it and came up with 41 dkh. The PH off the effluent has gone down to 6.74. I haven't added any to the tank water yet...

 

[jdieck]

Thanks jdieck!

I just tested the effluent the way dragon_slayer said to do it and came up with 41 dkh. The PH off the effluent has gone down to 6.74. I haven't added any to the tank water yet...

It seems the reactor is working well, just insure that the PH is stable and try not to run below 6.5
BTW 41 dkh seems high for the effluent but the testing might be off. It is my undurstanding that around 33 to 34 dkh is the max achievable on the reactor without creating precipitation. You may want to double check the test. In any case whatever you are adding the important thing is that it is enough to maintain a constant alkalinity in the tank.

 

[thrlride]

Cool. I will test again.

I took two ml of effluent and then 1 drop of dkh one. Then added dkh 2 until a color change. I added a full ml then an additional .29. I then multiplied 1.29 * 32 which got me 41.

Is that right?

I'll test again now.

 

[thrlride]

PH is still dropping. It went down to 6.45! I lowered the CO2 bubbles per minute. Hopefully that's what I need to do.

Is my ARM mush now? How could I tell?

 

[jdieck]

I am not aware of the test kit you are using but what I would do is just dilute the sample with RO/DI or Distilled water by half, test as usual and multiply the results by 2.
In other words if the kit calls for 2 ml sample, I would add 1 ml of tank water and 1 ml of ro/di water and test as usual.
If during testing you go trough a full sringe of tritrant just refill the shringe and keep on adding until the color changes. Add the reading of the second shringe to the first one and multiply by two.

 

[thrlride]

I can try that too. Dragon_slayer listed the directions on the second page of this. Assuming they are right...

I am using the salifert test kit.

You said 1 ml of tank water and 1 ml of ro/di water. How does that measure the effluent?