Korallin Calcium Reactor
- Thread starter smoke15
- Start date
- Status
Jose,
After try to retest my co2 regulator. I got the same problem at before. The working pressure gauge is stayed at 30 psi. I try to repeat the step you show me .. unfortunately, it is not going back to zero.. :-( I hope I am not broke it... Any solution to resolve this?
Thanks
After try to retest my co2 regulator. I got the same problem at before. The working pressure gauge is stayed at 30 psi. I try to repeat the step you show me .. unfortunately, it is not going back to zero.. :-( I hope I am not broke it... Any solution to resolve this?
Thanks
jdieck
New member
Keep in mind that the regulator knob will adjust the working pressure but it is required that there is flow. If the solenoid and/or the needle valve are closed, screwing in the knob will increase the working pressure but even if you unescrew it back out the working pressure will not come down because the gas on the working side has no way to go. It is not vented because the output is closed and it can not go back to the high pressure cylinder side.
So in summary, to adjust the working pressure there should be flow established in the regulator by opening the solenoid and the needle valves.
If the needle valve is just a bit open it will take some time for the pressure to come down as the gas will be relased very slowly so be patient and give the regulator enough time to adjust.
So in summary, to adjust the working pressure there should be flow established in the regulator by opening the solenoid and the needle valves.
If the needle valve is just a bit open it will take some time for the pressure to come down as the gas will be relased very slowly so be patient and give the regulator enough time to adjust.
I think I may burst the working pressure gauge when I try to retest the Co2 regulator with the knob close and open cylinder valve. I tried to plug in the solenoid and open needle valve but the working pressure is not going down and just remained at 25 PSI.
However, I will try to consider "25 PSI" = 0 PSI and add 15 to 20 PSI on the top of number 25 PSI. What do you think??
Do you have any other way to bring this number 25 to 0 PSI???
Thanks
However, I will try to consider "25 PSI" = 0 PSI and add 15 to 20 PSI on the top of number 25 PSI. What do you think??
Do you have any other way to bring this number 25 to 0 PSI???
Thanks
jdieck
New member
If after closing the cylinder valve with the needle valve and the solenoid open the gauge does not return to zero then it may be damaged.
If the gauge did not developed a leak you may still use it as a reference. It will rise from whatever the new "zero point is" but the reading will not be acurate.
In other words if with no pressure it is reading 25 psi and with pressure it reads 40 the actual pressure may not necesarely be 15 psi but at least you know that there is some pressure and it is enough to adjust your bubble rate so you can use it for a while.
I will recommend that next time you need to refill your cylinder you also take the regulator for gauge replacement.
If the gauge did not developed a leak you may still use it as a reference. It will rise from whatever the new "zero point is" but the reading will not be acurate.
In other words if with no pressure it is reading 25 psi and with pressure it reads 40 the actual pressure may not necesarely be 15 psi but at least you know that there is some pressure and it is enough to adjust your bubble rate so you can use it for a while.
I will recommend that next time you need to refill your cylinder you also take the regulator for gauge replacement.
jdieck
New member
No, the bubble counter filed to 3/4 is about right and you are right, without a controller you need to keep the solenoid plugged all the time just notice that the adjustment of CO2 bubbles has to be such to balance out with the effluent rate so do not exceed the CO2 thus lowering the PH too much. One thing I will strongly recommend if you do not have a controller at least get a PH monitor. It will be almost impossible to set the reactor without having continued monitoring of the effluent PH.
jdieck
New member
hungtien said:
No on the contrary, you want to maintain the tank PH as much as possible because the PH of the effluent from the calcium reactor will be lower and will create a tendency to lower the PH of the aquarium.
You will use the CO2 to lower the PH only of the water inside the reactor to a range in between 6.5 and 6.8 and this will be the PH of the effluent comming out of the reactor into your tank with PH 8.3 so do not be alarmed if the reactor makes the overall PH of your tank go down a bit to about 8.1
jdieck
New member
During the setup period I would recommend to monitor the reactor, once you know the right effluent flow and CO2 bubble rate you can move it back to the main tank.
I do not remember which outlet is which but one comes out from the top of the reactor. That is the secondary one that you will set just to drip a little bit, say 4 or 5 drops per minute. It is just to prevent CO2 gas accumulation on top of the reactor so do not put it inside the water but above the surface so if gas CO2 comes out it disipates in the air rather than bubble in the water.
The other is the main output, that is the one of your main effluent. To measure it's PH, hang a cup on the inside side of the sump and let the effluent to drip into the cup, once the cup fills up it will overflow into the sump. Put the PH probe inside the cup and thats it. You will be measuring the effluent PH (Which is the one in the reactor.
I do not remember which outlet is which but one comes out from the top of the reactor. That is the secondary one that you will set just to drip a little bit, say 4 or 5 drops per minute. It is just to prevent CO2 gas accumulation on top of the reactor so do not put it inside the water but above the surface so if gas CO2 comes out it disipates in the air rather than bubble in the water.
The other is the main output, that is the one of your main effluent. To measure it's PH, hang a cup on the inside side of the sump and let the effluent to drip into the cup, once the cup fills up it will overflow into the sump. Put the PH probe inside the cup and thats it. You will be measuring the effluent PH (Which is the one in the reactor.
- Status
Similar threads
