Korallin Calcium Reactor
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dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
you'll want to use weld-on #16 to seal that seam not an epoxy. as for the difference in the 01 v/s 02 it's not simply a pump, they redesigned the plumbing around and made it a top fill chamber. a 1501 fills via the bottom of the reactor and has a long tube going down to a flange plate in the bottom, they are a real PITA about keeping media out of the recirculation pump when filling as you have to fill media with the reactor upside down. there are several reactors i've seen that have a mix of the two features that were made during a transition from the old to the now new design.
kc
kc
Kenfuzed
New member
KC, mine was originally equipped with the 1046 pump so I'm thinking it may have been a transition model.
I thought I had read somewhere that the 1502 reactors had an internal check valve in the recirc plumbing. This would insure that flow coming from the inlet went to the pump rather than backward into the top of the reactor. I'm just checking as I want to make sure my reactor is running as efficiently as possible. I've had issues with it keeping up with my 150 heavily stocked sps/clam tank. I get it dialed in using your (KC) instructions and spreadsheet, but a couple weeks later it begins to slip from 420 Ca back down to 370.
Reactor specs are as follows:
Media is ARM
Bubble count = 40 bpm
Outlet effluent rate = 40 ml/min
Top effluent outlet = 2 drops/min
Effluent pH = 6.8 to 6.9
Second chamber = both effluent drip into a 5" tube/strainer made from a stand pipe, filled with ARM
Tank params as of last night:
Ca = 390
Alk = 10 dkh
pH = 8.4 and always stable
Reactor media has to be replaced every 2-3 months when it drops just below half.
I thought I had read somewhere that the 1502 reactors had an internal check valve in the recirc plumbing. This would insure that flow coming from the inlet went to the pump rather than backward into the top of the reactor. I'm just checking as I want to make sure my reactor is running as efficiently as possible. I've had issues with it keeping up with my 150 heavily stocked sps/clam tank. I get it dialed in using your (KC) instructions and spreadsheet, but a couple weeks later it begins to slip from 420 Ca back down to 370.
Reactor specs are as follows:
Media is ARM
Bubble count = 40 bpm
Outlet effluent rate = 40 ml/min
Top effluent outlet = 2 drops/min
Effluent pH = 6.8 to 6.9
Second chamber = both effluent drip into a 5" tube/strainer made from a stand pipe, filled with ARM
Tank params as of last night:
Ca = 390
Alk = 10 dkh
pH = 8.4 and always stable
Reactor media has to be replaced every 2-3 months when it drops just below half.
dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
upgrading to a larger pump defiantly helps get more out of the reactor, my old 1501 was upgraded to a Mag 9 before replacing it with another 4002.
with your quick dissolution of media and still getting drops in the tank you may fair better going with a smaller grain size media, such as the fine KORALith, rather then the ARM and then running the reactor with only about 1/2 media and the stronger recirculation pump to keep the media in suspension, not blowing all around but not sitting all packed together either. i run my 4002s this way with the ARM media and get very good levels out of them without overdriving the CO2.
i use about 50 lbs of media a year and i'd say less then 5 lbs of that ends up being thrown out as useless.
hth
kc
with your quick dissolution of media and still getting drops in the tank you may fair better going with a smaller grain size media, such as the fine KORALith, rather then the ARM and then running the reactor with only about 1/2 media and the stronger recirculation pump to keep the media in suspension, not blowing all around but not sitting all packed together either. i run my 4002s this way with the ARM media and get very good levels out of them without overdriving the CO2.
i use about 50 lbs of media a year and i'd say less then 5 lbs of that ends up being thrown out as useless.
hth
kc
jdieck
New member
You may try a check valve but I have not idea how much pressure drop will it create after the powerhead. If it is too much I would recomment trying to locate the reactor at or below the sump level so the water do not flow back after a power failure. In my case I did not bother because 1 gal of reactor water returning to 330 gal system makes not a big difference.V4m8ION said:
minsmarine
New member
I am using Asia version of 3002.
50 BPM
80 ml/min
6.7 PH
and I get only 16dKh in return.
Based on calculation, in 24hr my CR added up only 800dkh to my tank. My tank dKH depreation is 1,400dKh in 24hr for my 3x1.5x1.5 FullFlag SPS tank.
Media is ARM ( 4 months old ) and CR is fed by 600L/hr PH.
CO2 1 Bar PSI.
So I though drip back, but based on drip methods even if I can get 50dKH with 100 Drips per Miniute
I will achieve only 800dKH per day.
mean
50BPM,80mLM = 50BPM,15mLM ( this is just gusing )
So what should I do, geez
Now everyday drop in 1.5dKH.
50 BPM
80 ml/min
6.7 PH
and I get only 16dKh in return.
Based on calculation, in 24hr my CR added up only 800dkh to my tank. My tank dKH depreation is 1,400dKh in 24hr for my 3x1.5x1.5 FullFlag SPS tank.
Media is ARM ( 4 months old ) and CR is fed by 600L/hr PH.
CO2 1 Bar PSI.
So I though drip back, but based on drip methods even if I can get 50dKH with 100 Drips per Miniute
I will achieve only 800dKH per day.
mean
50BPM,80mLM = 50BPM,15mLM ( this is just gusing )
So what should I do, geez
Now everyday drop in 1.5dKH.
jdieck
New member
minsmarine said:
Try increasing the bubble rate to reach 6.5 PH and that is as low as I would go. If your tank PH drops below 8.05 you may want to add a second chamber. If it still not enough you may need a larger reactor.
If you can track the masurments, this link may help:
http://home.comcast.net/~jdieck1/reactor.html
A second chamber is easy to make:
Last edited:
minsmarine
New member
Thank jdieck, lowered PH to 6.5 and now CR is maintaining my tank KH @ 10dKh
I'm having a problem with my Korallin C-1502. I have a pH probe in my drip cup and a solenoid for the CO2 is connected to a pH controller. I keep my pH about 6.5-6.8. 60 drops per min. My effluent KH is only about 22-25. I understand it should be higher. I'm feeding the reactor with an Aqualifter pump (may be clogged some, but enough pressure to continiously drip). I just replaced my media and that didn't help.
Any ideas on how to get my effluent KH up?
Any ideas on how to get my effluent KH up?
jdieck
New member
bean3178 said:
The best way is to use a powerhead, look for a way to attach a 1/4" tubing to it. I used a tap to thread one of the PH fittings for a John Guest adapter 1/4 tubing by 1/8" NPT.
As the powerhead discharge can be restricted maintaining a constant pressure it is ideal for feeding a calcium reactor.
Install a 1/4 John Guest valve in the tubing but keep it fully open. close it when you shut down the powerhead for reactor maintenance, this will prevent the reactor water backflowing into the sump.
tigerczr
New member
I just finished setting up my C1502 and have a couple of questions dragon_slayer. I used your setup instructions, which were very helpful to me. Thanks
My first question is regarding the working pressure psi on the right gauge of the regulator. You indicated that it should be at 15 psi but I can't mine lower than 35 psi without affecting the bubble count. Is that OK or I'm I doing something wrong?
I tested my alk today and it was at 7.3. Will the reactor bring it up or should I add part A to bring it to where I want it to be?
And last...In your setup sheet you indicated that output line #1 should be closed. You never mentioned if it should remain closed or if that line also needed to be set at a certain drip. Can you please elaborate on output line #1?
Thank you very much.
My first question is regarding the working pressure psi on the right gauge of the regulator. You indicated that it should be at 15 psi but I can't mine lower than 35 psi without affecting the bubble count. Is that OK or I'm I doing something wrong?
I tested my alk today and it was at 7.3. Will the reactor bring it up or should I add part A to bring it to where I want it to be?
And last...In your setup sheet you indicated that output line #1 should be closed. You never mentioned if it should remain closed or if that line also needed to be set at a certain drip. Can you please elaborate on output line #1?
Thank you very much.
jdieck
New member
Probably Dragon will chime in, meanwhile here is some input.
Different regulators have different sensitivity. The higher the pressure the more difficult will be to achieve a low bubble rate as the needle valve will have to be almost completely shut off. Usually what happens is that at low pressure with regulators that are not that sensitive is that you get some kind of oscilating pressure. When the gas is slowly released from the regulator the pressure slowly drops, at certain point the regulator opens to replenish that pressure but because it is not very sensitive it will overshoot so the pressure increases rather than stay constant, at that point the bubble rate increases until the pressure starts dropping again so the bubble count and the cycle starts all over again. In this case increasing the outlet pressure (right gauge) will help a little bit but try to set the pressure at the minimum setup that minimizes the swings. Also insure that the gauge is reading zero when there is no pressure in the regulator (needle valve open and regulator center knob screwed out until it feels a bit loose). If the regulator does not read zero it might have lost the calibration. This might happen when opening the cylinder valve while the center knob is screwed, this usually sends a shock (sudden surge of gas) right to the outlet gauge that may make it loose the calibration ore completely damage it.
If the gauge reads something when there is no outlet pressure and the reading is small, say around 10 to 15 psi the gauge may still be usable but when in use you may be reading a higher pressure than what it really is.
So, check the gauge reading at zero pressure, if it reads other than zero whatever it reads it is aproximately the value you need to deduct from your reading when in normal operation.
Regarding the alkalinity you shall adjust the reactor to keep it constant and not try to increase it. Use part A (Alkalinity part) or use Baking Soda to increase it where you want it. Again the reactor shall keep it constant.
In some cases when the bubble rate is too high or during start ups air or CO2 gas gets accumulated on top of the reactor, if the pump is seated on top it may loose the priming. You can open output line 1 to vent the accumulated air or gas and close it afterwards. A trick that may also work well is just to leave line one open just slightly (3 or 4 drops per minute) that will be enough to automatically vent any potential trapped gas. Do not submerge the line of outlet one in the water so the released gas is vented to the air rather than bubble inside the aquarium water.
Different regulators have different sensitivity. The higher the pressure the more difficult will be to achieve a low bubble rate as the needle valve will have to be almost completely shut off. Usually what happens is that at low pressure with regulators that are not that sensitive is that you get some kind of oscilating pressure. When the gas is slowly released from the regulator the pressure slowly drops, at certain point the regulator opens to replenish that pressure but because it is not very sensitive it will overshoot so the pressure increases rather than stay constant, at that point the bubble rate increases until the pressure starts dropping again so the bubble count and the cycle starts all over again. In this case increasing the outlet pressure (right gauge) will help a little bit but try to set the pressure at the minimum setup that minimizes the swings. Also insure that the gauge is reading zero when there is no pressure in the regulator (needle valve open and regulator center knob screwed out until it feels a bit loose). If the regulator does not read zero it might have lost the calibration. This might happen when opening the cylinder valve while the center knob is screwed, this usually sends a shock (sudden surge of gas) right to the outlet gauge that may make it loose the calibration ore completely damage it.
If the gauge reads something when there is no outlet pressure and the reading is small, say around 10 to 15 psi the gauge may still be usable but when in use you may be reading a higher pressure than what it really is.
So, check the gauge reading at zero pressure, if it reads other than zero whatever it reads it is aproximately the value you need to deduct from your reading when in normal operation.
Regarding the alkalinity you shall adjust the reactor to keep it constant and not try to increase it. Use part A (Alkalinity part) or use Baking Soda to increase it where you want it. Again the reactor shall keep it constant.
In some cases when the bubble rate is too high or during start ups air or CO2 gas gets accumulated on top of the reactor, if the pump is seated on top it may loose the priming. You can open output line 1 to vent the accumulated air or gas and close it afterwards. A trick that may also work well is just to leave line one open just slightly (3 or 4 drops per minute) that will be enough to automatically vent any potential trapped gas. Do not submerge the line of outlet one in the water so the released gas is vented to the air rather than bubble inside the aquarium water.
tigerczr
New member
Thanks for the info. When there is no pressure going through the regulator both gauges read 0. However, when I open the C02 bottle the first gauge reads 1100 psi and the right even though I haven't opened it reads 40 psi????
I set the bubbles at 10 per min. It was definitely hard due to the pressure and it does fluctuate from 10-11 bubbles per min. After adjusting the bubbles that's when the pressure drops to 35 psi.
Also, should the effluent cup just drip over when full or should I drill a hole on the bottom of the cup for the drip?
Thanks
I set the bubbles at 10 per min. It was definitely hard due to the pressure and it does fluctuate from 10-11 bubbles per min. After adjusting the bubbles that's when the pressure drops to 35 psi.
Also, should the effluent cup just drip over when full or should I drill a hole on the bottom of the cup for the drip?
Thanks
jdieck
New member
Let the cup overflow or if you wish drill some holes about 1/2" below the top rim. The idea is for the cup to keep effluent water of enough depth to keep the tip of your PH probe submerged about 2".
Regarding the regulator try this test. disconnect the CO2 from the reactor so there is no excess CO2 into the reactor during the test. Some CO2 will be relased so insure you have good ventilation. With the needle valve open and the cylinder valve open unscrew the center knob until it feels loose. wait until the gas inside the regulator bubbles out and there is no more bubbles. Does the right gauge still have a reading? If so it is decalibrated. If it does not it is OK and just need to adjust the knob for a lower pressure.
Note that the output (right gauge) pressure can not be properly adjusted unless there is flow of gas (Needle valve slightly open)
To adjust the knob after the test (Knob fully out) do the following. Reconnect the tubing to the reactor. Open the needle valve about 1/8 of a turn. Slowly screw in the center knob until you get some bubbles (say around twice the bubble rate you want to maintain) now use the needle valve to adjust your desired bubble rate. Once the bubble rate is stable note the pressure in the right regulator for future set up. It could be anywhere between 10 and 25 psi.
Regarding the regulator try this test. disconnect the CO2 from the reactor so there is no excess CO2 into the reactor during the test. Some CO2 will be relased so insure you have good ventilation. With the needle valve open and the cylinder valve open unscrew the center knob until it feels loose. wait until the gas inside the regulator bubbles out and there is no more bubbles. Does the right gauge still have a reading? If so it is decalibrated. If it does not it is OK and just need to adjust the knob for a lower pressure.
Note that the output (right gauge) pressure can not be properly adjusted unless there is flow of gas (Needle valve slightly open)
To adjust the knob after the test (Knob fully out) do the following. Reconnect the tubing to the reactor. Open the needle valve about 1/8 of a turn. Slowly screw in the center knob until you get some bubbles (say around twice the bubble rate you want to maintain) now use the needle valve to adjust your desired bubble rate. Once the bubble rate is stable note the pressure in the right regulator for future set up. It could be anywhere between 10 and 25 psi.
dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
JuanGil75 said:
i think that even if you do find a downloadable copy of the Korallin included sheet it will prove to be useless as it has to everyone else out there. This Thread has a downloadable copy of my set.
kc
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