Korallin Calcium Reactor
- Thread starter smoke15
- Start date
- Status
MarksReef
New member
smoke15
Thanks for all the questions. I have been following since the beginning until I picked up the same reactor today and will use this thread in setting up mine.
Now I have a question.
Which pump should I buy? The previous owner was using a siphon so it doesn't have a pump.
Thanx to all who have helped, It is helping me too.
P.S. the whole package along w/ media - the pump $150 ( thanx -Stoli)
Thanks for all the questions. I have been following since the beginning until I picked up the same reactor today and will use this thread in setting up mine.
Now I have a question.
Which pump should I buy? The previous owner was using a siphon so it doesn't have a pump.
Thanx to all who have helped, It is helping me too.
P.S. the whole package along w/ media - the pump $150 ( thanx -Stoli)
dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
smoke15
as long as the bubble doesnt get large enough to kick in the 'fail safe CO2' system your ok to purge it weekly. when it gets to big it will shut down the circulation pump by allowing it to fill with undisolved CO2 (the bubble that is at the top of the reactor) and you can burn up the pump this way.
the drip rate of 3/min is a PITA to set, but with a little bit of adj each time you can get it down low enough to keep the CO2 out and not be to fast of a drip (i get about 5/min)
zack136
any pump will work as long as you dont over do it. you can T off from your return or a power head. just dont hook it directly into the input with no other bypass for the flow, the reactor is not going to use that great of a flow and will burn up a pump if you hook it directly to it without a bypass.
kc
as long as the bubble doesnt get large enough to kick in the 'fail safe CO2' system your ok to purge it weekly. when it gets to big it will shut down the circulation pump by allowing it to fill with undisolved CO2 (the bubble that is at the top of the reactor) and you can burn up the pump this way.
the drip rate of 3/min is a PITA to set, but with a little bit of adj each time you can get it down low enough to keep the CO2 out and not be to fast of a drip (i get about 5/min)
zack136
any pump will work as long as you dont over do it. you can T off from your return or a power head. just dont hook it directly into the input with no other bypass for the flow, the reactor is not going to use that great of a flow and will burn up a pump if you hook it directly to it without a bypass.
kc
Costazul
Premium Member
Sorry but, as I said before, if the CO2 is in the bottom of the reactor, don't worry it will not get the tank if dissolved. The only CO2 that is a problem is in the top. I have this reactor and it always catches bubbles in the bottom but not in the top because is dissolved in the media before get to top.
Reduce the bubble rate, if you catch CO2 in the top not in the bottom.
Be aware, we are talking about CO2 air not dissolve as CO2.
Reduce the bubble rate, if you catch CO2 in the top not in the bottom.
Be aware, we are talking about CO2 air not dissolve as CO2.
smoke15
New member
Zack,
Yeah, it's a good thing I am a total idiot when it comes to the calcium reactor, and have had EVERY concievable issue with it . However, with all the help I am gaining knoweldge by the day !!
You actually have to thank guys like dragon, whos has the knowledge and patience to answer all the questions.
I have actually had that happen, that "to much air" was in there and the system stopped altogether. However, it hasent happened since I learned to make the adjustment.
What happens if your "secondary" line that you are running slowly is to fast,like 15-20 drips per minute?
Yeah, it's a good thing I am a total idiot when it comes to the calcium reactor, and have had EVERY concievable issue with it . However, with all the help I am gaining knoweldge by the day !!
You actually have to thank guys like dragon, whos has the knowledge and patience to answer all the questions.
I have actually had that happen, that "to much air" was in there and the system stopped altogether. However, it hasent happened since I learned to make the adjustment.
What happens if your "secondary" line that you are running slowly is to fast,like 15-20 drips per minute?
dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
the only draw back of having the secondary line drip to fast is you need to add its drip rate to the total from the primary line to get a more accurate guess on your effluent flow to the tank.
you can even use it as the primary line and close the other off compleatly if you wanted to.
kc
you can even use it as the primary line and close the other off compleatly if you wanted to.
kc
dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
Even if I use a small enough pump ?
yes you can buy a small enough pump to run it directly to the reactor, they are called litter meter (dosing pumps) and run about 300 bucks each.
as for the pad you can make one out of any course foam that will allow good water flow and not trap the media or allow it to pass down through to the bottom of the reactor.
kc
yes you can buy a small enough pump to run it directly to the reactor, they are called litter meter (dosing pumps) and run about 300 bucks each.
as for the pad you can make one out of any course foam that will allow good water flow and not trap the media or allow it to pass down through to the bottom of the reactor.
kc
justgettinstarted
New member
ok i think i got mine adjusted corr4ectly finally!
bout 5 drops per min out the top and about 35 to 40 out of the other exit tube... and 10-12 bubbles per min of co2...
when i get home tonight i will measure the pH and dKH of the effluent... but does this sound ok?
bout 5 drops per min out the top and about 35 to 40 out of the other exit tube... and 10-12 bubbles per min of co2...
when i get home tonight i will measure the pH and dKH of the effluent... but does this sound ok?
dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
zack136
with you having 1" flex, you can get a hose barbed T adapter that has 1" x 1" x 1/4" and your set.
they have them in the plumbing section of my local Lowes, you should be able to find them where your at as well.
kc
with you having 1" flex, you can get a hose barbed T adapter that has 1" x 1" x 1/4" and your set.
they have them in the plumbing section of my local Lowes, you should be able to find them where your at as well.
kc
Biodragen
Premium Member
justgettinstarted
Try to reduce the drip from 5. all you need is enough for the gas to escape but not totally waste it.
If you can get 2 per min then you are good. Any more then that you are dripping just CO2 into the tank in turn will lower the TANKS PH.
Keep an eye on that too. You start to loos the tank PH reduce the drip of extra CO2.
Also the best way to feed the reactor is plumb it into your return with a threaded JG or speed fitting. This way you can disconnect if need be with out turning off the return.
Also you can add a Ph monitor and probe to the effluent part of the drip and keep a constant PH of 6.88.
Brian
Try to reduce the drip from 5. all you need is enough for the gas to escape but not totally waste it.
If you can get 2 per min then you are good. Any more then that you are dripping just CO2 into the tank in turn will lower the TANKS PH.
Keep an eye on that too. You start to loos the tank PH reduce the drip of extra CO2.
Also the best way to feed the reactor is plumb it into your return with a threaded JG or speed fitting. This way you can disconnect if need be with out turning off the return.
Also you can add a Ph monitor and probe to the effluent part of the drip and keep a constant PH of 6.88.
Brian
justgettinstarted
New member
Try to reduce the drip from 5. all you need is enough for the gas to escape but not totally waste it.
I had it lower but the CO2 was still collecting in the top...
If you can get 2 per min then you are good. Any more then that you are dripping just CO2 into the tank in turn will lower the TANKS PH.
my return is above the water level... so if it hasn't dissolved by the time that it exits the tube it should just go into the atmosphere i would think.
Also the best way to feed the reactor is plumb it into your return with a threaded JG or speed fitting. This way you can disconnect if need be with out turning off the return.
i am currently feeding it with a gravity feed... I dont know as i want to hook it up to my return pump because there is a fair amount of back pressure.. and then i would need a small calve to adjust this as well... I am also using rigid PVC so it would be a PITA to tap the pipe..
Also you can add a Ph monitor and probe to the effluent part of the drip and keep a constant PH of 6.88.
i dont have a solenoid in line with the co2 so i dont thing that would help all that much
thanks!
I had it lower but the CO2 was still collecting in the top...
If you can get 2 per min then you are good. Any more then that you are dripping just CO2 into the tank in turn will lower the TANKS PH.
my return is above the water level... so if it hasn't dissolved by the time that it exits the tube it should just go into the atmosphere i would think.
Also the best way to feed the reactor is plumb it into your return with a threaded JG or speed fitting. This way you can disconnect if need be with out turning off the return.
i am currently feeding it with a gravity feed... I dont know as i want to hook it up to my return pump because there is a fair amount of back pressure.. and then i would need a small calve to adjust this as well... I am also using rigid PVC so it would be a PITA to tap the pipe..
Also you can add a Ph monitor and probe to the effluent part of the drip and keep a constant PH of 6.88.
i dont have a solenoid in line with the co2 so i dont thing that would help all that much
thanks!
Biodragen
Premium Member
If you dont have it but it still will help. really just a Ph probe and monitor is all you need to use. It is not a must have but very very useful to have dedicated. It helpes me keep my EFFLUENT drip at a more stable Ph on the out.
This is because you are doing gravity feed...you do need more pressure than that to help.
It even says that in the directions that it would be best if you can run a pump or power head, atleast it says that in my directions.
For tapping into the return I have mine feeding from a Mag12.
Or get a power head to feed it.
Once you do that then that will also help with cutting back on the gas pocket on top.
You have FLEX PVC...you can cut it and add a TEE with one end threaded. Then get a speed fitting and thread that into the TEE. Then add a John guest valve on it and youare set. OR if you can get the JG valve with the thread on it you are good there.
Trust me I did what you did and it was a pain getting it tuned in. Once I did what I described above my issues went away and it was much easier to work with.
It may suck doing it on your end but once it is tied in then you will have it much easier.
dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
If you can get 2 per min then you are good. Any more then that you are dripping just CO2 into the tank in turn will lower the TANKS PH.
oh how wrong you are. the bubble is CO2 gas and the drip allows it to exit the reactor, after the undisolved CO2 exits the reactor (the bubble is gone) your just dripping effluent same as the other exit. there is no build up of CO2 any other way in the reactor.
Also you can add a Ph monitor and probe to the effluent part of the drip and keep a constant PH of 6.88.
Brian
Why do you suggest he shoot for 6.88? different media have different PH values at which they disolve. your best efficiency of a reactor is when your CO2 is at 100% saturation in your reactor, not at 101% or 99%.
kc
oh how wrong you are. the bubble is CO2 gas and the drip allows it to exit the reactor, after the undisolved CO2 exits the reactor (the bubble is gone) your just dripping effluent same as the other exit. there is no build up of CO2 any other way in the reactor.
Also you can add a Ph monitor and probe to the effluent part of the drip and keep a constant PH of 6.88.
Brian
Why do you suggest he shoot for 6.88? different media have different PH values at which they disolve. your best efficiency of a reactor is when your CO2 is at 100% saturation in your reactor, not at 101% or 99%.
kc
Biodragen
Premium Member
dragon_slayer
All I can tell you is do it that way then and watch your PH bounce all over.
I had done this and gave problems. I had a hard time keeping my Ph in check along with alk...this will affect them both.
All the reactor is suppose to do is keep Calcium stable, you have to get it in the area you want, then use the reactor.
The Directions tell you to use one or the other for the out. NOT both. If you do both the same then you are dosing more GAS in turn will lower your PH.
Play around with it...then you will see what I am speaking of. I went through all this for months before someone helped me out.
Just as I described earlier made the difference. I waste 3 10LBS tanks over this in three months. Just because of the pocket forming.
Korallin's can be fussy to dial in but once dialed in you are set and walk away until you need to replace the CO2.
At that point all you do is turn off the main valve and leave the other settings alone.
It all has to do with how well or how much CO2 you want to burn up.
So do the 30 or 40 drips on the one and do 5,10 or 15 on the other and see how long that CO2 will last you.
Why **** it away.
All you want to do is keep it from forming a pocket...that is it.
you already are using the 2nd out for the efluent.
Read the instructions if you have them and do more research on it.
I am no pro at this but all I can do is pass along what has been passed to me on how to work it properly.
I wish I had the link on the explanation an these two outs on the reactor but there is a reason for doing it like this and this was coming from the makers of KORALLIN.
As for the 6.88 on the effluent out....this is the ideal range to be at it's peak. Do a search on it and you will find that that would be the range.
I just jumped in on this to pass along what I have learned (allot) .
If you know something I don't please clue me in.
I do not understand the chemistry of how it works but I do understand the mechanical side of this particular reactor.
Korallin's use less CO2 to acheive the same as the cheaper reactors but those use more CO2 to do it.
Also what needs to be considered is how coarse the media is. The more coarse it is the more the reactor has to work so you want a middle grade on the media.
All I can really say is this is how mine was set up and once it is set up like this dialing it in was extrwamly easy. It took me three hours one day to get the correct 6.88 PH out of the reactor and my Tanks Ph came in at 8.2 all day long.
The guy who helped (wish I had his user name still) sells GASES, travles the USA for this and knows how all this works. He told me what to do, walked me through it on the phome dialing it in and I was in check the next day being very stable.
Brian
P.S
I got to start keeping track of my info that I come across in e-mail.
It would make me feel much better that I could have it in this thread. You might agree with it if you read it.
All I can tell you is do it that way then and watch your PH bounce all over.
I had done this and gave problems. I had a hard time keeping my Ph in check along with alk...this will affect them both.
All the reactor is suppose to do is keep Calcium stable, you have to get it in the area you want, then use the reactor.
The Directions tell you to use one or the other for the out. NOT both. If you do both the same then you are dosing more GAS in turn will lower your PH.
Play around with it...then you will see what I am speaking of. I went through all this for months before someone helped me out.
Just as I described earlier made the difference. I waste 3 10LBS tanks over this in three months. Just because of the pocket forming.
Korallin's can be fussy to dial in but once dialed in you are set and walk away until you need to replace the CO2.
At that point all you do is turn off the main valve and leave the other settings alone.
It all has to do with how well or how much CO2 you want to burn up.
So do the 30 or 40 drips on the one and do 5,10 or 15 on the other and see how long that CO2 will last you.
Why **** it away.
All you want to do is keep it from forming a pocket...that is it.
you already are using the 2nd out for the efluent.
Read the instructions if you have them and do more research on it.
I am no pro at this but all I can do is pass along what has been passed to me on how to work it properly.
I wish I had the link on the explanation an these two outs on the reactor but there is a reason for doing it like this and this was coming from the makers of KORALLIN.
As for the 6.88 on the effluent out....this is the ideal range to be at it's peak. Do a search on it and you will find that that would be the range.
I just jumped in on this to pass along what I have learned (allot) .
If you know something I don't please clue me in.
I do not understand the chemistry of how it works but I do understand the mechanical side of this particular reactor.
Korallin's use less CO2 to acheive the same as the cheaper reactors but those use more CO2 to do it.
Also what needs to be considered is how coarse the media is. The more coarse it is the more the reactor has to work so you want a middle grade on the media.
All I can really say is this is how mine was set up and once it is set up like this dialing it in was extrwamly easy. It took me three hours one day to get the correct 6.88 PH out of the reactor and my Tanks Ph came in at 8.2 all day long.
The guy who helped (wish I had his user name still) sells GASES, travles the USA for this and knows how all this works. He told me what to do, walked me through it on the phome dialing it in and I was in check the next day being very stable.
Brian
P.S
I got to start keeping track of my info that I come across in e-mail.
It would make me feel much better that I could have it in this thread. You might agree with it if you read it.
- Status
Similar threads
