afishfanatic
Premium Member
Could someone help me with finding a downloadable owners manual for a Korallin 1502 reactor.
Korallin Calcium Reactor
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jdieck
New member
afishfanatic
Premium Member
Thanks, I will give them a try.
cdraughon
New member
Ok, I'm finally going to set this reactor up, and of coarse I have questions.
The first one regards my regulator. I purchased the "combo package" from MD which included a "deluxe" regulator. I connected the regulator to the tank, and unscrewed the adjusting screw until there was no pressure. The regulator was not plugged in. Natural curiosity led to me opening the main valve. The high pressure guage moved from 0 to 1000. As I scrrewed in the adjusting screw the low pressure guage moved from 0 up to 40. I unscrewed the adjusting screw, but the psi did not fall. I closed the main valve and removed the regulator. The high psi guage returned to 0, but the low psi is stuck at 35.
How can the low psi guage be reset? Did I screw it up? If so, great! Hopefully, this is not a sign of things to come.
Chris
The first one regards my regulator. I purchased the "combo package" from MD which included a "deluxe" regulator. I connected the regulator to the tank, and unscrewed the adjusting screw until there was no pressure. The regulator was not plugged in. Natural curiosity led to me opening the main valve. The high pressure guage moved from 0 to 1000. As I scrrewed in the adjusting screw the low pressure guage moved from 0 up to 40. I unscrewed the adjusting screw, but the psi did not fall. I closed the main valve and removed the regulator. The high psi guage returned to 0, but the low psi is stuck at 35.
How can the low psi guage be reset? Did I screw it up? If so, great! Hopefully, this is not a sign of things to come.
Chris
jdieck
New member
While the regulator is connected to the cylinder, un-screw the regulator center knob until it feels a little loose, If the regulator has a solenoid valve, plug it to a power outlet, Open the regulator needle valve. This will release any pressure trapped in the regulator beteen the diaphragm and either the solenoid or the needle valve.cdraughon said:
cdraughon
New member
I must be blind. There is a solenoid valve. It was plugged in. Where is the regulator neddle valve? To the left of the solenoid, there is a barbed tip for the exit to a hose, and then two flat nuts seperated by a washer. To the left of this is a black cap that slides onto a brass end.
cdraughon
New member
It would be nice if instructions were included. I do not know what purpose the black cap and nuts serve. Is this the regulator neddle valve? If so, should the cap just slide on, or should it screw on. I can't get it to stay.
I unsrewed the solenoid and this released the pressure in the low psi guage.
I have a headache.
I unsrewed the solenoid and this released the pressure in the low psi guage.
I have a headache.
dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
just FWIW that is not a pic of the M3 regulator that is included with the MD deluxe package.
and that little thing with the knob on it (black cap and nuts), on the left side of the solenoid is the needle valve.
kc
and that little thing with the knob on it (black cap and nuts), on the left side of the solenoid is the needle valve.
kc
cdraughon
New member
Ok, MD provides two different brands depending on what is in stock. My regulator is a Precision Marine.
The knob is secured to the "neddle" via a set screw. The screw was not tight enough. Fortunately, I have hex drives small enough to tighten it. Now I see how the neddle valve works.
The knob is secured to the "neddle" via a set screw. The screw was not tight enough. Fortunately, I have hex drives small enough to tighten it. Now I see how the neddle valve works.
jdieck
New member
cdraughon said:
Good, now for some instructions:
Lets know the regulator:
a) Connector to the cylinder. That is what is called a CGA 520 type connector, it requires a flat Kel-F or Nylon washer for proper sealing. A new washer is recommended every time the cylinder is recharged. The dealer filling the tank may provide you with them.
b) Gauge on the right " Inlet Pressure"(Closer to the cylinder connection) That gauge indicates the pressure of the gas in the CO2 cylinder. At room temperature that pressure is around 850 to 1000 psi. Note that contrary to other gases, for CO2 this pressure does not indicate the content amount in the cylinder because the vapor pressure of the liquid CO2 in the cylinder is basically constant until the liquid CO2 is exausted then the pressure reading will drop fairly quick. Depending on the size of the cylinder the content may last from three months to a year but once the pressure starts to drom, it will be gone very quickly in about a day or two.
c)Gauge on the left: (Outlet pressure or delivery pressure) Thi gauge indicates the pressure of the gas being delivered by the regulator. This pressure is adjusted by turning the knob with the "T" Handle WHEN THERE IS FLOW thru the regulator, screw - in (clockwise) increases the pressure, screw-out (Counterclockwise) reduces the pressure.
This gauge can be easily damaged if the cylinder valve is opened when the "T" handle knob is screwed in so before opening the cylinder and applying pressure to the regulator, isure that the knob with the "T" handle is screwed out enough to feel it a little loose. The normal discharge pressure range is between 10 and 25 psi (.7 to 1.77 Bar or .7 to 1. 7 Kg/cm2). with typical being 15 psi. (1 Bar or 1.1 Kg /cm2)
To adjust the discharge pressure once the cylinder valve is open. with the needle valve opened about 1/2 a turn and the solenoid pluged in (Energized) slowly screw in the knob with the "T" handle until the desired pressure is achieved and flow is established.
d) Solenoid valve: For gas to flow the solenoid shall be energized (Open) when connected to a PH controller the solenoid opens and closes the CO2 feed depending on the range of the PH set in the controller.
If no controller is being used the solenoid shall be connected to an outlet fo gas to be supplied.
e) Needle valve: This valve is a sensitive valve that allows for the adjustment of the desired flow of CO2 thru the bubble counter. Given the design of the valve the seat or the needle can be damaged if closed too tight. It is always better to connect or disconnect the solenoid to open or close the CO2 supply.
Once the discharge pressure has been set use the needle valve to adjust the amount (Or bubble rate) for the CO2 to be delivered.
Enjoy your new toy!
Jose
cdraughon
New member
Thanks for the definitions jdieck. That is really appreciated.
I hooked everything up according to Dragon Salyer's instructions. For water input, I am using an Agualifter pump, which appears to be providing a continuous supply of water.
I am having two problems, both involve maintaining the drip rate.
I can set my drip to 40/min with a bubble count of 10/min. Within an hour the drip of both falls off. The eff drip fell from 40 to about 20, while the bubble rate stoped completely.
Adjusting the bubble rate only took a few hours. The neddle valve is either off or 30 bubbles/min. It was very difficult to get to 10/min.
The reactor is full of water with no detectable air or gas inside. However, I can tap the reactor on the floor and get a few bubbles out of the media. Is this normal? Should I continue taping the reactor until no more bubbles are released? Would this impact my above problem?
Also, I am using ozone safe airline. Is this ok for CO2?
Thank, Chris
p.s. This is turning out to be the PITA I expected. For the amount I spent on this new "toy", I would like to enjoy it.
I hooked everything up according to Dragon Salyer's instructions. For water input, I am using an Agualifter pump, which appears to be providing a continuous supply of water.
I am having two problems, both involve maintaining the drip rate.
I can set my drip to 40/min with a bubble count of 10/min. Within an hour the drip of both falls off. The eff drip fell from 40 to about 20, while the bubble rate stoped completely.
Adjusting the bubble rate only took a few hours. The neddle valve is either off or 30 bubbles/min. It was very difficult to get to 10/min.
The reactor is full of water with no detectable air or gas inside. However, I can tap the reactor on the floor and get a few bubbles out of the media. Is this normal? Should I continue taping the reactor until no more bubbles are released? Would this impact my above problem?
Also, I am using ozone safe airline. Is this ok for CO2?
Thank, Chris
p.s. This is turning out to be the PITA I expected. For the amount I spent on this new "toy", I would like to enjoy it.
dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
Adjusting the bubble rate only took a few hours. The neddle valve is either off or 30 bubbles/min. It was very difficult to get to 10/min.
this is a usual indication of a poor regulator or to high of a pressure set on your regulator. you can try turning your working pressure down some.
the bubbles in the media are normal and you'll find it difficult to keep all removed as CO2 will build over time unless you fluidized the media.
the stopping of the effluent is mostly caused by an improper control valve and somewhere in this thread there are a few links to the 'good' ones.
hth
kc
this is a usual indication of a poor regulator or to high of a pressure set on your regulator. you can try turning your working pressure down some.
the bubbles in the media are normal and you'll find it difficult to keep all removed as CO2 will build over time unless you fluidized the media.
the stopping of the effluent is mostly caused by an improper control valve and somewhere in this thread there are a few links to the 'good' ones.
hth
kc
cdraughon
New member
Thanks Dragon_Slayer,
According to MD, the deluxe regulator they provided in my shipment is a Precision Marine. As to quality, I'm not sure how they rate. The working pressure is set to 15 psi.
I will be odering the replacement neddle valves. I wanted to do this earlier but was away on travel. I expected the ones that shiped with the product to work.
I noticed that I could control the bubble count by opening the valve to output 1, but eventually the bubbles would stop.
According to MD, the deluxe regulator they provided in my shipment is a Precision Marine. As to quality, I'm not sure how they rate. The working pressure is set to 15 psi.
I will be odering the replacement neddle valves. I wanted to do this earlier but was away on travel. I expected the ones that shiped with the product to work.
I noticed that I could control the bubble count by opening the valve to output 1, but eventually the bubbles would stop.
cdraughon
New member
A couple notes:
I spoke with MD this morning and he indicated the reactor needs a couple hours to regulate itself due to internal back pressure. Therefore, it may not hold the 10/min in the counter. After speaking with him, I set the neddle valve to 10/min. Within a few minutes, the bubble rate increased to a rapid rate and then fell back down to around 10. The outputs were set to 40 and 2.
After arriving home several hours later, the bubble count was 1 every minute or so, and both outputs had stoped. Inspecting the airline tubing for both, I could see gas bubbles in the lines. I opened their valaves and the bubble counter went nuts, rapidly producing bubbles. I have since readjusted the output valves to 40 and 1. I also had to readjust the bubble valve to get it back to 10. After doing so, the counter slowly increase to about 50 / min and then fell to about 12.
Is it normal for the counter to fluctuate like this, or should it stay consistant?
Is it normal to get gas bubbles in the output lines, and would they prevent the flow of effulent? Would this affect the CO2 bubble count?
Do these reactors have back pressure? If so, is it something that can be released? Would this help with the bubble count?
Or is all of this tied to the stock output valves not being the best quality?
Frustrated,
Chris
I spoke with MD this morning and he indicated the reactor needs a couple hours to regulate itself due to internal back pressure. Therefore, it may not hold the 10/min in the counter. After speaking with him, I set the neddle valve to 10/min. Within a few minutes, the bubble rate increased to a rapid rate and then fell back down to around 10. The outputs were set to 40 and 2.
After arriving home several hours later, the bubble count was 1 every minute or so, and both outputs had stoped. Inspecting the airline tubing for both, I could see gas bubbles in the lines. I opened their valaves and the bubble counter went nuts, rapidly producing bubbles. I have since readjusted the output valves to 40 and 1. I also had to readjust the bubble valve to get it back to 10. After doing so, the counter slowly increase to about 50 / min and then fell to about 12.
Is it normal for the counter to fluctuate like this, or should it stay consistant?
Is it normal to get gas bubbles in the output lines, and would they prevent the flow of effulent? Would this affect the CO2 bubble count?
Do these reactors have back pressure? If so, is it something that can be released? Would this help with the bubble count?
Or is all of this tied to the stock output valves not being the best quality?
Frustrated,
Chris
dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
lemme take a stab in the dark about who the 'he' is you spoke with at MD................................Joseph??? who knows next to nothing about anything at all other then trying to find a good excuse for everything but himself for lack of customer service 
changes in bubble counts are caused by poor regulators and poor needle valves. the only way your reactor pressure is going to have an effect 'later' is if the pressure changes later.
Is it normal for the counter to fluctuate like this, or should it stay consistant?
no once set they should stay set, at least if you have constant pressure feeding into the reactor and quality regulator/needle valve.
Is it normal to get gas bubbles in the output lines, and would they prevent the flow of effulent? Would this affect the CO2 bubble count?
no. if you do get CO2 bubbles (or other air) in the effluent lines they should purge and effluent flow then return, flow should never stop unless there is a blockage or lack of feed pressure. the bubble count will change if blockage of feed pressure problems have occurred yes.
Do these reactors have back pressure? If so, is it something that can be released? Would this help with the bubble count?
Yes, you want a pressurized reactor for better more efficient use of CO2. you can use a gravity feed if you don't want the pressure but the reactors ability to keep up with max demands is greatly reduced, the bubble count issues will not be resolved by removing the pressure, if you cant keep a constant count at a few psi you cant at no psi either.
is all of this tied to the stock output valves not being the best quality?
somewhat but not entirely, the higher your drip rate the less problems you have with the stock valves, the less reactor pressure the less likely they'll leak.
hth
kc
changes in bubble counts are caused by poor regulators and poor needle valves. the only way your reactor pressure is going to have an effect 'later' is if the pressure changes later.
Is it normal for the counter to fluctuate like this, or should it stay consistant?
no once set they should stay set, at least if you have constant pressure feeding into the reactor and quality regulator/needle valve.
Is it normal to get gas bubbles in the output lines, and would they prevent the flow of effulent? Would this affect the CO2 bubble count?
no. if you do get CO2 bubbles (or other air) in the effluent lines they should purge and effluent flow then return, flow should never stop unless there is a blockage or lack of feed pressure. the bubble count will change if blockage of feed pressure problems have occurred yes.
Do these reactors have back pressure? If so, is it something that can be released? Would this help with the bubble count?
Yes, you want a pressurized reactor for better more efficient use of CO2. you can use a gravity feed if you don't want the pressure but the reactors ability to keep up with max demands is greatly reduced, the bubble count issues will not be resolved by removing the pressure, if you cant keep a constant count at a few psi you cant at no psi either.
is all of this tied to the stock output valves not being the best quality?
somewhat but not entirely, the higher your drip rate the less problems you have with the stock valves, the less reactor pressure the less likely they'll leak.
hth
kc
cdraughon
New member
Thanks Dragon_Slayer,
To answer your stab, it was not Joseph, but Eugene. Don't know if the shoe fits the same. Anyway...
I have had the working pressure set to 10psi since earlier today. Since about 3:30, the CO2 count has been more consistant at 15 to 20 / min. It still goes up and down sometimes. The efulent rates have been consistant as well around 45 to 60.
My last test of the efulent showed a PH of 6.04, an hour ago. Since then I increased the drip to 60 and slowed the CO2 a bit. So far it seems to be maintaining, so I will test soon and see if the PH went up.
Regarding the feed...I am using an Aqualifter pump. So based on the periodic bubbles in the output lines (mainly #2, which is set to 1bpm), the pump is not functioning adequately?
And if I understand correctly, the fluctuation of CO2 bubbles is directly related to the regulator and its neddle valve? If so, this is not good. I shouldn't have to buy another regulator.
I will be going back on another trip tomorrow, and will be gone for several weeks. Since this is not tuned, I will have to turn it off. Will I need to replace the media upon my return, or will it still be good?
FWIW...the solution from MD was to just keep adjusting the CO2 needle valve for the next few days or weeks. I can understand your daily adjustments once you have a starting point. I don't understand why it could take days to adjust this aspect.
Thanks agian
To answer your stab, it was not Joseph, but Eugene. Don't know if the shoe fits the same. Anyway...
I have had the working pressure set to 10psi since earlier today. Since about 3:30, the CO2 count has been more consistant at 15 to 20 / min. It still goes up and down sometimes. The efulent rates have been consistant as well around 45 to 60.
My last test of the efulent showed a PH of 6.04, an hour ago. Since then I increased the drip to 60 and slowed the CO2 a bit. So far it seems to be maintaining, so I will test soon and see if the PH went up.
Regarding the feed...I am using an Aqualifter pump. So based on the periodic bubbles in the output lines (mainly #2, which is set to 1bpm), the pump is not functioning adequately?
And if I understand correctly, the fluctuation of CO2 bubbles is directly related to the regulator and its neddle valve? If so, this is not good. I shouldn't have to buy another regulator.
I will be going back on another trip tomorrow, and will be gone for several weeks. Since this is not tuned, I will have to turn it off. Will I need to replace the media upon my return, or will it still be good?
FWIW...the solution from MD was to just keep adjusting the CO2 needle valve for the next few days or weeks. I can understand your daily adjustments once you have a starting point. I don't understand why it could take days to adjust this aspect.
Thanks agian
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