Korallin Calcium Reactor

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Dragon__ Slayer,

Any tips for unsticking a solenoid? The light goes on and off, but when it's off, bubbles are getting past it.
 
Mad Reefer,

I had the same problem. Drove me nuts for several weeks. Finally I tested the fittings for all the airline tubing. I found that every connection was leaking a small amount of Co2. To test I just placed a dab of soapy water around the connections and it would start bubbling. I tightened all connections and have not had the problem since. Bubble count stays where it is set at. Hope this helps you out!!
 
Re: dragon_slayer

Re: dragon_slayer

Mad Reefer said:
The regulator came from Grainger for about $114 not to say that it can't be cheap.

When I set it up to 15 it will bubble like crazy. Should I turn it up and see if after a while it will settle down?

turn it up to 15, then readjust your bubble count, if it stays constant leave it there, you can go as high as 25 psi, but much higher and you have bad problems

Dag said:
Dragon__ Slayer,

Any tips for unsticking a solenoid? The light goes on and off, but when it's off, bubbles are getting past it.

if tapping on it doesnt work, then i suggest using 100% silicone oil, but DO NOT put it on a high pressure side of the regulator. any type oil will compress and combust, not that CO2 is a flamable, but could still be a problem ;)

kc
 
Thanks dragon_slayer for all your info. You made it very easy to set up my new to me but used 1502. Thanks.

Question. I have am M3 regulator that is not working on the operating pressure side. It reads all the way over to the right no matter what I have tried. I plan to post another thread but though I would check here first. I called marine-monsters.com to buy a new operating pressure gage but they said I can't replace/buy just that gage. They want $150 for a whole new regulator. Its only 2 years old. What should I do. At the moment I just set the bubble count to 1 every 10 seconds with the needle valve barely open. Will this be fine? Thanks

PS: I have the CO2 DX (deluxe) = CO2 EC + Integrated Solenoid Valve
 
Thanks to everyone here for the very helpfull information. Now dragon_slayer You said it was better to count mL`s per min better that bubbles per min. What would 40 bubbles per min be in mL`s. Cause I am running at about 40 -+, Co2 is at 10 per min But I can not keep my PH up it still wants to dive down to the 6.3 range. its been up for 2 days per the directions. Any infomation would be great.


Mjag
 
NO, you count ml/min rather then drips/min, you have to count CO2 by the bubble regardless unless you have a flow meter. but i have never had to add CO2 faster then i could count, i've had drip rates that were a stream, not a drip, can only count volume on that.

a consistant drip and bubble count will produce a consistant pH. if your pH is dropping with both consistant, then the recirculation pump is not doing a good job, this can be from you OD'ing the pH (to low) and turned the media to mush and it needs to be all replaced, or the pump is clogged, to small, sucking air, etc....


kc
 
Thats what I was wondering myself. When I got home from work it was at 6.5 now its at 6.3. I will take the pump off and take a look. Keep ya posted on the out come.

Thanks for a quick response.

Mjag
 
I forgot to say, This is the 1502 model. I looked at the pump everything looked good to em . So I put everything back together and reset co2 Bpm and Effluent. So well let it ride for now and make any adjusments as needed. Thanks for the Help DS

Mjag
 
if you find your still getting the pH shifts replace the media, you may have had the pH to low and caused it to 'melt' and clog.

kc
 
It seems like I have it under control for now. Its at 6.7 now and has been there since last night.

Mjag
 
I had to replace the solenoid and in the process ruined the threaded coupling that joins the solenoid to the gauges. Does anyone know where I can replace that piece?
 
I had to replace the solenoid and in the process ruined the threaded coupling that joins the solenoid to the gauges. Does anyone know where I can replace that piece?
 
McMaster has these choices:

Material Pipe to Pipe Connection Maximum Pressure (psi) Length Part
Number Price Technical
Drawing 3D
Model Catalog
Page
Nickel-Plated Yellow Brass NPTF x NPTF 1000 31/32" 9151K86 $1.86 Each

Nickel-Plated Yellow Brass BSPP x BSPP 2900 43/64" 4860K601 $3.62 Each

Nickel-Plated Yellow Brass BSPT x BSPT 2900 49/64" 4860K631 $2.26 Each

Precision-Machined Yellow Brass NPT x NPT 5600 1-1/16" 9171K212 $1.40 Each

Yellow Brass NPT x NPT 1200 1-3/16" 5485K21 $0.39 Each

Yellow Brass NPT x NPT 1200 31/32" 5485K217 $0.62 Each


Only show items where Select a Feature Material Pipe to Pipe Connection Maximum Pressure (psi) Length is

But I don't know if I need NPT or BSPT, etc.
 
Hi Guys, I have a question for u. I have a driprate of 45 drips/min and about 10 bubbles of Co2/min. KH from effluent is 43 but I only have about 5-6 KH in the main tank. The reactor has been working now for about 3 days, and the KH has only risen from 4 to 5-6. How long does it take for the reactor to up the KH to the desired level of 8-10?

Greetings from Sweden
 
Dont use the reactor to increase the tank levels... use the reactor to hold what you have. Get the tank up to specs using other chemicals and then tune the reactor to hold it there.

Cheers,
Seeker
 
Seeker gave excellent advice. a reactor is designed to maintaine levels not bring them up.

also you dont want to boost dKH more then 1 over a week at the time. go slow.

kc
 
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