dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
for most (if not all) regulators, the guage on the left is the PSI of the bottle, with a full bottle (and to an almost empty one) it will be between 800-1100 PSI depending on the temp of the bottle.
the one on the right is your working PSI and should be between 10-20 PSI. your needle valve is used to regulate your bubble count as most regulators are not accurate at lower then 10 PSI with the small amount of CO2 your using.
as for the drip rate, keep adjusting it a little at the time. when mine stopped, i just budged it open a little further (if you think you moved it, you prolly did) and waited to see. i didnt try to get exactly 3 drips at that moment. if i had more, i closed it a very tiny bit (did i say just a little?) and same if not enough.
hth
kc
the one on the right is your working PSI and should be between 10-20 PSI. your needle valve is used to regulate your bubble count as most regulators are not accurate at lower then 10 PSI with the small amount of CO2 your using.
as for the drip rate, keep adjusting it a little at the time. when mine stopped, i just budged it open a little further (if you think you moved it, you prolly did) and waited to see. i didnt try to get exactly 3 drips at that moment. if i had more, i closed it a very tiny bit (did i say just a little?) and same if not enough.
hth
kc
I like it. Anyhow, the problem you are having is because you are not getting enough pressure into the reactor for both effluents to spit out. In my case, I can adjust the powerhead pressure by having a T in my 1/4" line then a 1/4" flow gate. Its not necessary to fully open the gate as the output of the effluent is only by drips. So in your case, i would of opened the gate more to send more pressure into the reactor. And the reason whY i have a T is to lessen the pressure of the powerhead and by causing future leaks in my reactor (just paranoid) by having 100gph of powerhead all at once into the Reactor. I have a Korallin 3002 and love it! 
