Korallin Calcium Reactor

I would spring for the adapter if I were you..those 9V batteries don't last long if you keep the pH monitor on.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6681045#post6681045 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Codeman00
I would spring for the adapter if I were you..those 9V batteries don't last long if you keep the pH monitor on.
I had to quit using the adapter due to electrical noise interference with the readings, The battery lasts about two months on the pin point and I leave it always ON
 
C1502

C1502

Hi all,
I read the first several pages of this really long (REALLY GOOD) thread and thought I would toss in a small tid bit that may help..
I had trouble getting a consistent bubble rate (it would slow down throughout the day and by morning would be off). I decided that the possibility of a leak was high and I took the airline fixtures apart and placed thread tape on them. When I got it back up I found that I could get whatever bubble rate I wanted (I use a pump no syphon). At that point I followed the threads guide to make the appropriate adjustment for my tanks needs. A side note to this is that I did have a bubble issue as well but using the 2nd line with a 1 - 2 bubble per minute fixed that problem completely.
Hope this is useful to someone...
CS
 
Re: C1502

Re: C1502

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6764725#post6764725 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CHUCKSD
Hi all,
I read the first several pages of this really long (REALLY GOOD) thread and thought I would toss in a small tid bit that may help..
I had trouble getting a consistent bubble rate (it would slow down throughout the day and by morning would be off). I decided that the possibility of a leak was high and I took the airline fixtures apart and placed thread tape on them. When I got it back up I found that I could get whatever bubble rate I wanted (I use a pump no syphon). At that point I followed the threads guide to make the appropriate adjustment for my tanks needs. A side note to this is that I did have a bubble issue as well but using the 2nd line with a 1 - 2 bubble per minute fixed that problem completely.
Hope this is useful to someone...
CS

Where the leaks in the CO2 line? If were they before or after the check valve?
The reason I ask is that I am trying to figure as much as I can about his common problem.
 
jdieck

it's been my experience that leaks before the check valve can often give varied pressure on the output side of the check valve but leaks on the output side Usually keep a consistent pressure and play little roll in bubble count variations.

kc
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6765704#post6765704 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dragon_slayer
jdieck

it's been my experience that leaks before the check valve can often give varied pressure on the output side of the check valve but leaks on the output side Usually keep a consistent pressure and play little roll in bubble count variations.

kc

That is logical. But in theory despite one case being variable and the other unafected. I am still trying to find why the flow stops as again in theory very small leaks although accounting for variations do not really explain why the flow stops. So I keep on searching.
 
Re: Re: C1502

Re: Re: C1502

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6765540#post6765540 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jdieck
Where the leaks in the CO2 line? If were they before or after the check valve?
The reason I ask is that I am trying to figure as much as I can about his common problem.

The leak (or leaks) I found are where you attach the hose(s) to the unit. {The pressure screws that expand the hose over the inlet/outlet. I am sorry that I do not know the correct terms} I used thread tape there and have not had any additional problems. I suspect they may leak due to shipping or hot/cold expansion.
 
Thanks Chuck. I have always speculated that somehow trapped air migrating within the media (as it does not dissolve) may affect changes in internal pressure making dripping unstable and some loose connections may not only leak to outside but under some circumstances may also suck in.
 
Is anyone using a larger circulation pump on their 1502 than the Eheim 1048? I was thinking of using a larger pump (mag 2 or 3) to try and keep the media from compacting. Once my media melts down to the half way mark (30 days) I have to shake the reactor every couple of days to keep it from compacting. Part of the cause is I'm running this reactor to it's maximum and refilling every 3 months (using ARM). I recently added a DIY second chamber made from an old Phos reactor to take up the excess CO2. However if the main reactor clogs then it seems all of the water would go straight to the second chamber and stop circulating through the compacted media in the first chamber. Does any of this make sense? :fun5:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6841445#post6841445 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Kenfuzed
Is anyone using a larger circulation pump on their 1502 than the Eheim 1048? I was thinking of using a larger pump (mag 2 or 3) to try and keep the media from compacting. Once my media melts down to the half way mark (30 days) I have to shake the reactor every couple of days to keep it from compacting. Part of the cause is I'm running this reactor to it's maximum and refilling every 3 months (using ARM). I recently added a DIY second chamber made from an old Phos reactor to take up the excess CO2. However if the main reactor clogs then it seems all of the water would go straight to the second chamber and stop circulating through the compacted media in the first chamber. Does any of this make sense? :fun5:
By the way, you are suposed to refill the media after it reaches the half way mark otherwise the addition falls very quickly. You can take this time to rinse the remining media and mix it with the new one.
 
I've been refilling once it drops below the label which is just under half. I was just trying to keep the media loose from the 3/4 to 1/2 point. I like using the ARM brand media because of it's ability to melt at a higher pH, but sometimes it seems too fine.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6843053#post6843053 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Kenfuzed
I've been refilling once it drops below the label which is just under half. I was just trying to keep the media loose from the 3/4 to 1/2 point. I like using the ARM brand media because of it's ability to melt at a higher pH, but sometimes it seems too fine.

Yes, we need to keep in mind that the media does not dissolve from top to bottom but rather dissolves the surface of each grain and the grain size keeps on getting smaller as it is consumed.
At certain point the grains are small enough that the resistance to flow increases. Mixing the reminder with new larger grains helps a bit at least until some grains get so small that star plugging the flow again.
This effect is reduced in upflow reactors but they suffer from line obstruction due to sediment migration and breakup so bad if we do and bad if we don't, until we find a better way I think the issue comes with the territory.
 
Im sorry if this has already been mentioned, I have read through several times and have not really found a answer. is there a formula that determins the bpm in ratio to efluent ml/min.
 
was running 30ml/min and 20 bpm, was getting a ph of 6.88 and alk was comming out about 16 per sailfert test. so this morning I backed it down to 20ml/min and left the co2 the same. the pH started to drop a little after about 30 mins. will check the alk in a few hours.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6847754#post6847754 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tybox
was running 30ml/min and 20 bpm, was getting a ph of 6.88 and alk was comming out about 16 per sailfert test. so this morning I backed it down to 20ml/min and left the co2 the same. the pH started to drop a little after about 30 mins. will check the alk in a few hours.
With an effluent pH of 6.88 I'm surprised you aren't getting a higher Alk reading. Are you sure you weren't supposed to double that reading (32) on your kit? I run my effluent at 40ml/min and 35 bpm and get a reading of 6.98 pH and alk is 34 DKH.

Check out the directions written by dragon_slayer. They are top notch and will get you dialed in perfectly.
 
that is with reading doubled, the original test came out at a tiny bit over 8. I had every thing dialed in with the 40 drips/min, 10 bpm formula, the alk was coming out in the 30's. I had to raise because alk and ca levels in the tank were dropping(the tank is a fully stocked sps 125gal/20 gal sump). last nite with the 30ml/min, 20 bpm I was getting a reading of alk in the 30's and the ph was between 6.55-6.65(raised slowley over a 2 hour span).then this morning the ph was at 6.89 and the alk was at 16. so I backed the efluent down to 20ml/min and the ph started to drop I didnt get a chance to check the alk because I had to go to work, I will check the alk again in a hour or so when I go to lunch. Is there a fomula so that if you are dripping x ml of efluent then you should have x amount of co2, or should I just keep playing with it.
 
Rechechked the efluent at lunch. The alk=29DKH and the PH is 6.60 at 20mil/min 21 bpm. I think I am going to try to up the efluent to 25mil/min and see if that raises the dkh a little bit more.


By the way I just wanted to say thank you to everyone that has contributed to this thread.Without it I dont think I would have been able to set the reactor up. Koraline should start using dragon_slayer's instructions instead of there own.lol
 
tybox.
Try giving the reactor a chance to stabilize at least 24 hours. If you are not using a PH controller the PH of the effluent rises and drops as the PH in the tank changes with the time of day. Expect higher PH at the end of the day and lower before lights on.
For a more stable reading take it at the same time of day. Again this is if you are not using a controller.
By the way, there is no ratio between effluent flow and bpm as all the reactors are different and also the level of saturation of the incoming water.
 
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