Kreg Screws vs Wood Screws - Quick Q

Terefel

New member
Hey guys,

Right now in the middle of building my stand. As I began piecing things together I came across this issue. I was planning on building the entire stand using kreg screws of various lengths; has anyone done this?

I am defintiely using them for the vertical supports but got worries that if I also used them for the top and bottom frame boxes the screws would interfere with each other.

I can run out and get regular wood screws but am not sure how the result is any different - won't these guys all be competing for the same space?

THANKS!
 

woodnaquanut

Premium Member
Pictures would be nice.

Sure you can put screws in so they interfere with the next construction process. It's up to you to NOT do that! :)
 

Terefel

New member
Pictures would be nice.

Sure you can put screws in so they interfere with the next construction process. It's up to you to NOT do that! :)

Thanks for the quick response! Unfortunately the only pictures I have are of my freshly cut boards. I am using the rocketengineer design below:

StandTemplate.jpg


The particular areas of concern are the 8 corners (top and bottom) where the top and bottom boxes connect with the pink boards. Note that I am not using the (green) screw strips because it was said you don't need them if you're using the kreg drill.
 

woodnaquanut

Premium Member
OK, I think I can work with that!

Remember you need extra long PH screws for 2x4s and the jig needs to be adjusted for the extra width stock. Kreg jigs are usually set up for 3/4 inch stock.

Yellow board. Pocket holes on the inside face, screws going into the red.

Blue. Same thing as yellow. Screws going into orange.

Pink boards. Pocket holes on inside face, screws going up into top frame red and yellow.

Same at bottom. PH going down into orange and blue.

You should glue and screw the pink boards together.

W/O the green, there is very little connecting the legs to the top/bottom frames. Are you going to skin it? (highly recommended :) )
 

Terefel

New member
Thank you! I'm using 1x4s (this is only for a 40breeder build), but I did think ahead to get the longer screws for the extra width of drilling the vertical boards into the boxes since I'll be going into 3-1/2 depth rather than 3/4 depth. I also have some good qood glue.

The plan you set forth is exactly what I was originally thinking before I got freaked out about the screws connecting, so I will give it a go; thanks! I am going to be skinning it, likely using a finished ply on the sides and boards on the front.

Thank you again!
 

RocketEngineer

Space is big.
DO NOT use standard deck screws in the Kreg holes.

Kreg screws are flat under the head to sit flat against the bottom of the pocket hole.

Standard deck screws have a taper under the head that will sink into the wood.

If you use a standard deck screw into a Kreg pocket hole, you will likely split the wood as the taper will wedge open the thin part of the board left over by the Kreg drill bit.

HTH,
 

Terefel

New member
Thanks RE. I used all kreg screws in the boxes (except for one side where they stripped, and there I drove standard wood screws in from the outside (using a regular pilot hole.)
 

Terefel

New member
Remember you need extra long PH screws for 2x4s and the jig needs to be adjusted for the extra width stock.

Lesson here for those doing this project in the future. When using 1x4s, the general rule of getting a Kreg screw length to match the thickness of the wood you are drilling into does not apply. Screwing from 3/4" into 3.5" I tried using 2-1/2 inch screws - they pop right out the side of the board :headwallblue:

I have a ton of 1-1/4 inch screws, which might be too short to be strong enough, a sample bag of 10 1-1/2 inch screws and 100 2-1/2" screws I cant use.

I am guessing based on how far the 2-1/2" screw came out that a 2" screw might also be too long, but it wasn't in my sample bag so no way to confirm. Since anything longer than 1-1/2" is nearly impossible to find around here, I might have to swing by the hardware store to get a bunch of 1-1/2" and hope for the best in terms of the joint.
 

woodnaquanut

Premium Member
1 1/4 are the ones you should use for 1x (assuming it's surfaced and really 3/4"). For a stand use blue or SS if you have them. More corrosion resistant.

Of course for a 40B U could just use 3/4" ply and forgo the frame. Same 1 1/4" screws, course thread.

Oh yea. Those longer screws are for thicker wood. The drawing is 2x4 and 2x6, IIRC.
 

Terefel

New member
Nice! That saves me a trip. I tried the 1-1/2 and it worked but I didn't know how close to the edge of the board it is. Maybe I'll try on scrap and just use those that I have on the bottom. Fortunately I did make some progress today (top and bottom boxes are done) so I will commence with the latest tomorrow. Thank you for the advice on the blue kote - I have been using those (the stainless are pricey!)

thank you again for your help today; it is much appreciated.
 

PL-Reef

Awesome Member
DO NOT use standard deck screws in the Kreg holes.

Kreg screws are flat under the head to sit flat against the bottom of the pocket hole.

Standard deck screws have a taper under the head that will sink into the wood.

If you use a standard deck screw into a Kreg pocket hole, you will likely split the wood as the taper will wedge open the thin part of the board left over by the Kreg drill bit.

HTH,

Yup! :thumbsup:
 
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