LaCl Reactor
- Thread starter insomniac2k2
- Start date
awais98
SPS
I know its been a while on this forum, but just in case some one was still loking for the right adaptor, a Tee for the inlet of the reactor, 1/2 inch on 2 sides with a quarter on the tee stem....
So after all the research I found you could use a 1/2 inch TEE, that is 1/2" all 3 sides, but then you could use a proper adaptor for 1/2 inch to 1/4 push in.... Ill post the link and the name of the exact stuff, just in case the link is deleted.
Legris 3166 56 62 Nylon Push-to-Connect Fitting, Inline Reducer, 1/4" x 1/2" Tube OD
heres the link from amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009PTDI6K/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_M3T1_ST1_dp_1
this is going to be a perfect things.
Yes do not forget to puct in a check valve on that 1/4 lin ebefore it enters the tee!!
Awais
So after all the research I found you could use a 1/2 inch TEE, that is 1/2" all 3 sides, but then you could use a proper adaptor for 1/2 inch to 1/4 push in.... Ill post the link and the name of the exact stuff, just in case the link is deleted.
Legris 3166 56 62 Nylon Push-to-Connect Fitting, Inline Reducer, 1/4" x 1/2" Tube OD
heres the link from amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009PTDI6K/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_M3T1_ST1_dp_1
this is going to be a perfect things.
Yes do not forget to puct in a check valve on that 1/4 lin ebefore it enters the tee!!
Awais
Philly guy
New member
awais98
SPS
You welcome! Keep us posted how it goes.
I have received mine but still waiting on some other parts. I found that instead if a 1/2" tee there is a 1/2" Y connection available from that same company at amazon.
I have ordered that. Will hopefully arrive tomorrow.
I'm also thinking about inserting some plastic noozle injector like thing inside that 1/4" delivering the lacl2.... That way I think the noozle will deliver it to the actual flow of water....instead of just flowing from the side of the tee or Y.
I'm not sure if that noozle won't clot off due to lanthanum phosphate..... But will see...
awais98
SPS
_shorty_
New member
I finally made it through both forums. Started making the first half of my own reactor tonight. I'm using two stages from an old RO vs BRS style reactors which have larger inlet and outlet sizes.
Here's a pic of it ready to screw together.
This first reactor stage has three different sized pipes that the water has to flow through and hopefully provide sufficient amount of dwell time and mixing. Inlet at the top as normal, flows down and into the holes at the bottom of the outter-most pipe, back up and into holes at the top of the middle pipe, back down to enter into the bottom of the inner most pipe and then back up and out of the reactor.
This will of course feed the second chamber with the floss and GAC, and then directly into the skimmer.
Pressure tested tonight and it's solid! I was pleased at how well everything fit together. Let me know if interested and I'll provide a detailed parts list.
Terri, did you ever get your system stable? And are you still using the LaCl?
Here's a pic of it ready to screw together.
This first reactor stage has three different sized pipes that the water has to flow through and hopefully provide sufficient amount of dwell time and mixing. Inlet at the top as normal, flows down and into the holes at the bottom of the outter-most pipe, back up and into holes at the top of the middle pipe, back down to enter into the bottom of the inner most pipe and then back up and out of the reactor.
This will of course feed the second chamber with the floss and GAC, and then directly into the skimmer.
Pressure tested tonight and it's solid! I was pleased at how well everything fit together. Let me know if interested and I'll provide a detailed parts list.
Terri, did you ever get your system stable? And are you still using the LaCl?
awais98
SPS
That's a nice design! You need to show us the detailed picture of the 3 pipes how you fixed it altogether and the part lists for sure.
this is what I mean
For some reason, I can't get to your photobucket:headwalls: Can you post it for me? Nevermind, it showed up when I did your quote...strange?! OK, that helps!
First answer is NO:deadhorse:, second is YES
. The system is not stable! What keeps happening is the damn thing clogs from the LaCl:angryfire: Now I imagine you guys will cringe but I'm dosing 15 every 30 seconds (have been doing this for months!)! I no sooner get the PO4 to .04-.07 and then it clogs which I don't know happens until I check the flow or test PO4! The clog happens in the push-connect T or at the 5 micron filter/filter floss or, both! I just don't remember to check it everyday or every few days:headwally: There have been times when the LaCl solution has run dry too! It's my own fault...I just need to remember! So my SPS's have taken a really hard hit:thumbdown The LPS, zoa's and shrooms are fine.Yes, I'm here:love1: Just been super busy like everyone else
Lots of appointments for a couple months because the tumor. Here's what I know. The Neurosurgeon said if I was 20 or 30, he'd take out stat! (But, I'm only 31...LOL...yeah, right!) It is located on a major artery and could not/cannot be totally removed. I guess if the artery is nicked/cut, you die :facepalm: So they get as much of it as they safely can, then do radiation to inhibit its growth. All the testing I had, has come back very good! YAY!! What we are waiting on is another MRI to see how fast it is growing. The MRI will be in April if I am remembering correctly.I had the crud for a couple weeks, the oldest (son) is getting married March 1st and 4 tanks are keeping me WAY TOO BUSY! The hubby says this isn't a hobby, it's work!:lolspin: So, Same-O, same-O!
Still frustrated with the 135. The 40B is great! The 40B is over-stocked as are the frag tanks:twitch: I have over 200 zoa frags...need any?! If I could find the time, I'd try selling them online:hammer: The Dr's say I don't get enough sleep, ya think?! One gets slower as one gets older:eek1:How is your Mom? I pm'd you several weeks ago but no reply?! You're busy too, I know
Okay, before I head off to bed, here's the scoop:
Let me know if you have any problems with clogging of the line. It would sure help me if mine wouldn't. With the T push-connect, I have the LaCl solution going down into the center hole, with the tank water coming in from one end and exiting out the other. I can't figure out why it clogs right there as water pressure/flow should keep that clear:blown:
If Insomniac is still around, the 5 micron filter works:dance: However, the 2 issues I run into is: 1.) dosing vinegar causes an increase of bacteria which tends to settle on the outside of the filter, making it slimey and difficult for the precipitate to go to the inner area of the filter and, 2.) the PO4 gets so high in my tank that the filter can get completely 'used' within a week!:uhoh3: So, I have been using the floss fairly regularly as changing out the 5 micron filter at $5/$6 a pop every week, is too expensive. If I can get the PO4 stable, then I should be able to run the 5 micron sediment filter for about a month or so...which happened once. Oh, I'm waiting to see pics of that new tank:dance:
I'll be around guys! Glad to see this thread active again! I missed you guys!!:love2:
Let me know if you have any problems with clogging of the line. It would sure help me if mine wouldn't. With the T push-connect, I have the LaCl solution going down into the center hole, with the tank water coming in from one end and exiting out the other. I can't figure out why it clogs right there as water pressure/flow should keep that clear:blown:
If Insomniac is still around, the 5 micron filter works:dance: However, the 2 issues I run into is: 1.) dosing vinegar causes an increase of bacteria which tends to settle on the outside of the filter, making it slimey and difficult for the precipitate to go to the inner area of the filter and, 2.) the PO4 gets so high in my tank that the filter can get completely 'used' within a week!:uhoh3: So, I have been using the floss fairly regularly as changing out the 5 micron filter at $5/$6 a pop every week, is too expensive. If I can get the PO4 stable, then I should be able to run the 5 micron sediment filter for about a month or so...which happened once. Oh, I'm waiting to see pics of that new tank:dance:
I'll be around guys! Glad to see this thread active again! I missed you guys!!:love2:
_shorty_
New member
Terri, when I was reading the last bit of the forums last night and read about the health problems you've been dealing with, my heart went out to you, girl! I read my wife your post, and we prayed for you then and there. I will continue to pray for you... and I feel confident that this is going to be Okay! I serve an awesome and very capable God who loves you dearly. So Hang in there!!
_shorty_
New member
reactor construction
reactor construction
So - construction of stage 1 as shown above:
First, I haven't glued anything, and don't plan to. I assume I'll need to take this apart from time to time to clean things out.
The first part - Very important - the O-ring. I'm sorry, this is the one part I don't have details for. I took the cannister top into the hardware store, found an oRing that fit and then it was not easy to get off, so the girl at the register threw the package away after I paid for it. I didn't think until later that it would be useful for a part number.
BUT... the key is that it's fairly thick (probably 1/8" thick), and fits fairly snugly against the center as you see in this picture. The Oring is about 1.25" diameter OD, i think.
The inner-most pipe is 1/2 CPVC, cut at 8.5". I found that a 1/2" CPVC coupling fitting fits snuggly up into the center of the top of the RO cannister.
These are the parts that are the key to the rest of the body of this design.
* 2 x 2" to 1" adapters (inside ridge filed down so that 1" pipe can slide all the way through).
* 2 x 2" coupling adapters
* 1" PVC (thinest wall) cut at 10 3/16" (length is critical, and should cut with table saw to insure square cuts)
* 2" PVC cut between 5.5" and 5 5/8"
will post more, shortly...
reactor construction
So - construction of stage 1 as shown above:
First, I haven't glued anything, and don't plan to. I assume I'll need to take this apart from time to time to clean things out.
The first part - Very important - the O-ring. I'm sorry, this is the one part I don't have details for. I took the cannister top into the hardware store, found an oRing that fit and then it was not easy to get off, so the girl at the register threw the package away after I paid for it. I didn't think until later that it would be useful for a part number.
BUT... the key is that it's fairly thick (probably 1/8" thick), and fits fairly snugly against the center as you see in this picture. The Oring is about 1.25" diameter OD, i think.
The inner-most pipe is 1/2 CPVC, cut at 8.5". I found that a 1/2" CPVC coupling fitting fits snuggly up into the center of the top of the RO cannister.
These are the parts that are the key to the rest of the body of this design.
* 2 x 2" to 1" adapters (inside ridge filed down so that 1" pipe can slide all the way through).
* 2 x 2" coupling adapters
* 1" PVC (thinest wall) cut at 10 3/16" (length is critical, and should cut with table saw to insure square cuts)
* 2" PVC cut between 5.5" and 5 5/8"
will post more, shortly...
_shorty_
New member
I found that 1" PVC fits nicely into both the bottom of the RO cannister (there's a ridge in the bottom that holds the 1" PVC as well as into the top of the RO cannister. The pipe is cut to fit snuggly up to the ORing when the cannister is screwed together - sealing the 1" pipe.
Construct the rest of the body by sliding the 1" PVC through one of the 2"to1" reducer - slide on a 2" coupling, slide on the 2" PVC, and then slide on the 2nd coupling and reducer.
Holes should be drilled around the bottom of the bottom 2" to 1" reducer.
Leave ~1/4" of the 1" PVC sticking out the bottom to fit into the ridge of the cannister.
Holes also need drilled near the top of the 1" PVC. I didn't measure this (sorry). I constructed put everything together, and then took apart carefully to leave the top reducer in place to mark - and drilled my holes just below that mark.
When complete, you end up with three sections to put together as shown in my first post above. Here it is all screwed together.
Of course, This is as far as I've gotten, so no testing done yet, other than pressure testing to test the seal of the oRing, which sealed nicely.
Construct the rest of the body by sliding the 1" PVC through one of the 2"to1" reducer - slide on a 2" coupling, slide on the 2" PVC, and then slide on the 2nd coupling and reducer.
Holes should be drilled around the bottom of the bottom 2" to 1" reducer.
Leave ~1/4" of the 1" PVC sticking out the bottom to fit into the ridge of the cannister.
Holes also need drilled near the top of the 1" PVC. I didn't measure this (sorry). I constructed put everything together, and then took apart carefully to leave the top reducer in place to mark - and drilled my holes just below that mark.
When complete, you end up with three sections to put together as shown in my first post above. Here it is all screwed together.
Of course, This is as far as I've gotten, so no testing done yet, other than pressure testing to test the seal of the oRing, which sealed nicely.
Thank you! I'm doing fine Shorty. I'm sure all the prayers are helping though as I'm better than I was. For awhile, I have to admit, I was worried as my thinking was really off! Thanks again!
_shorty_
New member
Now that I'm thinking about this whole design, it kind of makes sense that clogging will happen in the T .. The dosing pump flow stops but concentrated dosing solution is still in the line, mixing right there in the no flow 'vertical' section of the T with the 'phosphate rich' water flowing through horizontal part of the T.
awais98 posted additional parts (they look like RO system flow restrictor tubes) shown in the picture along with the push fitting. It took me a while to figure out what they were for, but that's potentially a solution to your problem. If one were to insert this at the end of their dosing line into the T, the end of that small tubing would be inline with the flow of your tank water supply - and it seems there would be less likely to clog. I don't know if it works in practice (since the tube is smaller, and the no flow condition from the dosing still exists). Either way, it's a great idea. I'm interested to know if it works in practice.
I've been contemplating the design quite a bit as I plan my own build.. I am still working through a lot of details. Hearing your issues helps me a lot, so thanks for sharing.
At this point, I'm considering the reaction chamber that I posted previously. I'm not sure that the reduction of water volume is worth the extra contact time. I'm thinking a higher flow recirculation pump might be a better alternative or at least added to the design.
Terri, I'm curious what your NO3 level is if you're accounting for so much PO4 with the LaCL3? I haven't done the math, but that seems alike a lot of phosphorus being bound, unless like slief posted a while back - if precipitate is being able to settle elsewhere in the system and is continually disolving to releases that previously bound PO4. That - or you just have a bunch of PO4 bound in rocks and sand and/or feed heavy. How deep is your sandbed? Another likely source of PO4 is trapped detritus (in which sandbeds, rock rubble, and other low flow areas are notorious for collecting).
