Large tank stands

It's getting skinned, but it won't be plywood. I really like the look of maple so we'll see. I've spent $100 in materials so far...so not too bad. ;) And I did it with a buddy so the only labor cost was pizza and beer. Sure beats the $1000-$2000 I was looking at for a 'pro' to do it.
 
ok.... lets put some things in perspective...

you can take a waterbed and use the cheap particle board and it holds just fine.

the stands you buy at the store.... dont even get me started at how cheap those are made....

point is as long as the weight is distributed evenly through out and its all level you should be fine. i wouldnt build it out of 2X4s but i would not hesitated to build it out of wood.
 
Maybe my post came off the wrong way...I wasn't knocking the steel and granite stand. I actually like it a lot. I looked into steel but couldn't talk myself into having it built in pieces and bolting it together once home. More than a few people told me that this would sacrifice the integrity of the steel. Who knows. Plus my last stand was steel and NEVER got finished! A wood frame is 1,000,000 times easier to skin and 'finish'. (IMO)

Bottom line is the frame is done, do you see ANY issues with it? Anything I should add or change and why? And how would I know if the wieght will be distributed evenly?

Thanks!
 
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I've always built my stands the same way. The inner 2x4s hold things in place and let you get the top level. Then I cut the other 2x4s to exact length so I have to tap them inbetween the bottom and top frames with a hammer. This way I know the force is all on those fitted 2x4s and not the ones used to level the stand. You glued it all together and with this design the forces aren't even ON the screws. That thing looks great to me. I always do plywood sides for lateral stability and the skin over THAT.
 
TampaReefer, if your tank is 8' x 4' how are you going to get it into the house? Unless you can remove a double door wall or have double entry doors.
 
lastlight said:
I've always built my stands the same way. The inner 2x4s hold things in place and let you get the top level. Then I cut the other 2x4s to exact length so I have to tap them inbetween the bottom and top frames with a hammer. This way I know the force is all on those fitted 2x4s and not the ones used to level the stand. You glued it all together and with this design the forces aren't even ON the screws. That thing looks great to me. I always do plywood sides for lateral stability and the skin over THAT.
Click to expand...

If I wrap it in plyood and THEN skin it, how do I get into the stand?


Humu Humu said:
TampaReefer, if your tank is 8' x 4' how are you going to get it into the house? Unless you can remove a double door wall or have double entry doors.
Click to expand...

The tank is only 26" tall...so if you put it on it's side, boom now it's only 26" wide and comes right through the door. ;)
 
the trick to getting into it once it is skinned with plywood is cutting away the parts you dont need. you just glue and screw the plywoo to cover the whole exterior. then you cut out all of your openings.
 
Stand

Stand

Tampa -

I'm getting a similar tank, dimensions are 72x60x30. Do you think I could build the same stand with the extra 5" of depth to the tank?

I don't know much about building so am looking for any advice to make sure the stand holds!!

Also, where doy ou get that white foam piece for under the tank?

Thanks!
Patrick
 
The only thing that you need to add would be some steel straps at each corner where the 2X10 meets the 2X4s at the top. You need four of these. They come with nail holes in them and you can get them and the nails for them at Lowes. Just measured them and they are 3X7 in. and they have been on my 300 for a couple of years with no problems. Will you be adding any bracing to your floors or are you on concrete?

HTH
 
Stand

Stand

Thanks. What type of screws / nails do you suggest for those steel braces?

As for my floor it will be built into a wall and sit on the concret floor in the garage. That sounds find and good, but my garage is build about 12' up and I can walk in my crawl space under the garage. Just had a company out and they feel the tank will be just fine. It sits on a major support wall and has a very large post & beam under it as well. They did say just to be safe they would add three more post and a large beam.

Hope that will do it!

I'm considering making the tank a bit deeper too and going 72x72x30... only going to do this one. The front pane is 72" and that is all that I'll have to clean in terms of Coralline... I hate cleaning that stuff.
 
attaboy said:
Thanks. What type of screws / nails do you suggest for those steel braces?

As for my floor it will be built into a wall and sit on the concret floor in the garage. That sounds find and good, but my garage is build about 12' up and I can walk in my crawl space under the garage. Just had a company out and they feel the tank will be just fine. It sits on a major support wall and has a very large post & beam under it as well. They did say just to be safe they would add three more post and a large beam.

Hope that will do it!

I'm considering making the tank a bit deeper too and going 72x72x30... only going to do this one. The front pane is 72" and that is all that I'll have to clean in terms of Coralline... I hate cleaning that stuff.
Click to expand...

The steel braces have lots of small holes already in them and they are sized to accept the small galvanized nails that are specifically made for the braces.
Everything you need for this is in one place at Lowes. In the steel bracket/hanger section.

HTH
 
Stand

Stand

Sump will be located under the stand. It will be open though and I will have a fan venting the garage so I'm hoping to keep the humidity low.
 
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