Leaking 300 gal - reseal
- Thread starter KBzreef
- Start date
sedor
New member
It will be more durable than when its new. Here is a youtube video that might help you out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RC-hNDr-RLE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RC-hNDr-RLE
uncleof6
Active member
IF the tank is already leaking, a reseal of the tank will not solve the problem. The structural seam of the tank is compromised, so "resealing" the tank will result in a tank, that holds water, but is not structurally sound. No way it will be more durable than when it was new.
The tank needs to be disassembled and rebuilt. It is too late for a simple reseal. The inner seal is not what holds the tank together.
AS long as you paid nothing for the tank, you lose nothing. I don't recommend that you attempt this repair, unless you have considerable tank building experience.
Jim
The tank needs to be disassembled and rebuilt. It is too late for a simple reseal. The inner seal is not what holds the tank together.
AS long as you paid nothing for the tank, you lose nothing. I don't recommend that you attempt this repair, unless you have considerable tank building experience.
Jim
serpentman
part time superhero
It's a PITA on a large tank but can be done. Using piano wire or fine guitar string is the best way to cut the seam between panes. Given the size of the tank, this is most like a multi-person job as each pane is HEAVY. Also, you may want to use spacers when re-sealing. Otherwise the weight of the panes will squeeze too much silicone out from between them.
Given the scope of the project, I second the notion of getting someone with some experience to help. You LFS may also be willing to assist.
Given the scope of the project, I second the notion of getting someone with some experience to help. You LFS may also be willing to assist.
outy
New member
uncle makes a good point but you have to figure out where the leak is coming from.
sometimes the manufacture makes boo boos in the corners like mine and when the inner water seal goes bad there can be pin holes in the corners that will seap if the water seal is bad but it could still be structurally sound. its a hard call.
my 2 year old 215 had a corner seep and you could see where there was a bubble in the water seal letting water get to a seam in the corner, i quick water seal repair and im back in buisness
sometimes water can leak through the silicone spacing pins they use, if thats the case its structurally sound and needs the water seal fixed
use ge silicone #1 clear for windows and doors with no bio seal mark or mildew additives
sometimes the manufacture makes boo boos in the corners like mine and when the inner water seal goes bad there can be pin holes in the corners that will seap if the water seal is bad but it could still be structurally sound. its a hard call.
my 2 year old 215 had a corner seep and you could see where there was a bubble in the water seal letting water get to a seam in the corner, i quick water seal repair and im back in buisness
sometimes water can leak through the silicone spacing pins they use, if thats the case its structurally sound and needs the water seal fixed
use ge silicone #1 clear for windows and doors with no bio seal mark or mildew additives
Last edited:
Iwishihadgills
New member
+1 Its really not that hard either. Theres alot of info on the web how to silicone a tank. But when you get up in the high gallon tanks that can be a little scary
Is this a glass or acrylic tank...
It is glass
I was told that it had a small leak (about a gallon a day). I am a very mechanically inclined person (rebuilt cars, renovating houses, etc). I am willing to buy the necessary tools and give it a try.
How can i tell if it is a structural problem? Or do i just need to break the tank down to a stack of glass and build it back?
What tools would you recommend to clap it together, keep it sqaure, and glue/seal it back together?
I would also need some direction on how to disassemble and reassemble the tank.
It is glass
I was told that it had a small leak (about a gallon a day). I am a very mechanically inclined person (rebuilt cars, renovating houses, etc). I am willing to buy the necessary tools and give it a try.
How can i tell if it is a structural problem? Or do i just need to break the tank down to a stack of glass and build it back?
What tools would you recommend to clap it together, keep it sqaure, and glue/seal it back together?
I would also need some direction on how to disassemble and reassemble the tank.
troylee
In Memoriam
fwiw if you dont listen to jim you will wish you did down the road....if the tank leaks more than likely there is a structual bond failing..... have you filled it up in the garage to see where it is leaking??? i would suggest doing that then maybe take a few pics of the spot leaking and we could help you more.... rite now i would say it's anybodys guess without pics of the seam in question.....
serpentman
part time superhero
If you are mechanically inclined, this should be relatively simple (notice I didn't say easy
) . This is a really tough call unless you can get a good look at the area that is leaking to pinpoint the problem. ALso, you can look for areas of silicone in the seam that appear discolored which would indicate they are pulled away from the pane. IME, when a large tank leaks its almost always structural. All it takes is an uneven stand to put enough pressure to work a seal loose. Given the volumes involved the pressure can do a number.
Depending on where the leak is will determine if you need to break down the entire tank or just redo a particular pane. If its a side panel you can get away with replacing that pane provided the seals aren't damaged on the others when you remove it. This can happen if panels get tweaked or moved.
Piano wire, long enough clamps, silicone spacers, a large cabinet square (some folks rig a jig) and a few buddies to work the panes in place.
The easiest way to disassemble is to work a fine wire (such as piano wire or guitar string) through the seal. Then you can "saw" through it in minutes. Also, if your tank is made by a manufacturer that is still in business, you may need to acquire a new top and bottom frame. These are often destroyed when attempting to remove.
As far as rebuilding, I would look up some tutorials on DIY tanks. That'll give you some guidance.
uncleof6
Active member
There is a lot of information on the web. But 90% is put up by individuals that have built one tank, in other words-- are just guessing, or merely repeating what another uninformed "builder" told them in another forum, that was picked up from another forum blah blah balh. Generally, there is no follow up that explains that the tank blew seams a year or so later. Such information, downplays what is really needed, with the anthem being it is 'not that hard" or "complicated" etc. In truth it is not really, if you know what you are doing, but when the topic swings to Ge Silicone I, taping to hold the tank together while it cures-- or straps, or hemp, and all you gotta do is.............. we are far below what can be considered doing it even halfa****.
Jim
uncleof6
Active member
The problem lies in the fact that water has overcome the structural seam of the tank. This does not happen, unless the integrity is compromised. Will it fail? It is hard to predict. It may fail tomorrow, or it may fail a couple years from now. I may not fail at all-- but are you willing to take that risk? You can fix it however you wish, but there is only one right way, and a hundred wrong ways. There really is no question as to the plan of action, simply of how you plan to deal with it.
You can approach it from a casual point of view, which would lead you to believe "it ain't that hard." A more casual approach may get you by in a ten gallon tank, maybe even a 30 gallon tank. But with 0 experience you need to be willing to accept a high level of risk. Beyond that there is no margin for error.
You will not find a "step by step" on the internet, that covers the myriad of "what can go wrong" things: That only comes with experience. Writing such a step by step would be so long, and so detailed, that the audience would be lost within the first couple of pages. Not really a practical thing to do.
Jim
outy
New member
would it not be safe to say that the structural seam is not ment to hold the water in but to glue the glass together.?
im not sure theres one manufacturer that will test the tank to hold water after the structural seal is in place.
heres my 2 year old 215g and the broken air bubble in the inner seam, the structural seals all look great but this was obvious.
uncle makes a great point and i can live with my call
im not sure theres one manufacturer that will test the tank to hold water after the structural seal is in place.
heres my 2 year old 215g and the broken air bubble in the inner seam, the structural seals all look great but this was obvious.
uncle makes a great point and i can live with my call
