AngelAddict
New member
I've never seen an ELN without a P or N.
LED buckpuck vs drivers
- Thread starter AngelAddict
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TheFishMan65
New member
Here is the data sheet
http://www.meanwell.com/search/eln-60/eln-60-spec.pdf
If you look at the last page you will see wehre it says the dimming (P or D) is optional. What I am not sure about is how easy it is to find the the non dimming beast.
http://www.meanwell.com/search/eln-60/eln-60-spec.pdf
If you look at the last page you will see wehre it says the dimming (P or D) is optional. What I am not sure about is how easy it is to find the the non dimming beast.
AngelAddict
New member
Yeah, I don't doubt there existance, but like you said, finding them will be a challenge. Can I use the P or N and just wire them up normally as if they were dimmable?
vietcu
New member
TheFishman65, could you link me to your setup, as to how you did it so you can run 24 led on one driver? I am planning on doing 60 Led on my 75, and would like to keep the driver to a minimum if I can. If not I am narrowing it down to a MW ELN 60-48D as I have an Apex to control the dimming. I would have to use 5 MW to control my Led if I go with 60 right? I have been reading the LED build thread for the past week, and it seems the more I read it the more confused I get ( too much info I think). Trying to read the DIY driver thread, but man I am so not an EE. Just your basic electrical handy man somewhat.
+1 on the ELN-60-48D drivers. I've got 4 of them running 12 LEDs each, 2 strings of 12 XP-Gs and 2 strings of XR-Es.
There are a multitude of ways to set up the dimming circuit, from a regulated wall wart (something less than 10vdc) to computerized control of the dimming function. I think you will find the ability to dim the LEDs to be a benefit in order to obtain the lighting mix (color) you want.
There are a multitude of ways to set up the dimming circuit, from a regulated wall wart (something less than 10vdc) to computerized control of the dimming function. I think you will find the ability to dim the LEDs to be a benefit in order to obtain the lighting mix (color) you want.
AngelAddict
New member
Dining would be nice for the color aspect but it seems too complicated right now. I'll probably get the ELN drivers and if I don't like the color, I can always add the dimmer later. With XP-G its a 40/60 for 14k so I'll run 13 XP-G on one driver and 24 XR-E royals on two other drivers, giving me a 35/65 and Hopefully close to a 20k, I like a lot of blue!
TheFishMan65
New member
vietcu, I built my own driver board. It has 8 circuits for 6 LEDs each. PM me if you need more info.
AngelAddict, I would by the dimmable driver if you even think it something yo might want. If you change your mind you would have to buy all new drivers. So what you need to decide is what you think you will use for diming so you can decide on whether to buy pulse widht moduled drivers or 0-10 volts dimming. Either can be setup rather easily and cheapily to just be a fixed on.
AngelAddict, I would by the dimmable driver if you even think it something yo might want. If you change your mind you would have to buy all new drivers. So what you need to decide is what you think you will use for diming so you can decide on whether to buy pulse widht moduled drivers or 0-10 volts dimming. Either can be setup rather easily and cheapily to just be a fixed on.
AngelAddict
New member
So what's the difference between the P and D drivers? P is pulse width modulated and D is 0-10v dimming? What exactly does that mean? I don't have a controller, might get one in the future but would rather not count on that. So which driver should I get/best for me? Then I'll need to get into how to dim.
TheFishMan65
New member
Pulse widht modulation: A second is devided into really small section say 1000. IN the 1/1000th of a second the LEDs are turned on and off (no change for full on or off). The longer it is on for the brighter it seems. If unlikely the 0-10 is probably a little easier to wire and one of the link a posted shows a nice schematic and general picture.
AngelAddict
New member
Can I use the 0-10 without a controller? Does it limit the about ox LEDs per string? Or can I still run 13 XP-Gs and 12 XR-Es? Where the link on wiring up the D? Thanks.
laverda
Well-known member
Wow! There is a whole lot of incorrect information in this thread. The Mean wells and Thompson Research Products both have the power supply built in. Both are available in dimmable and non-dimmable versions. Both are adjustable for voltage and/or current. While this is not designed for dimming purposes it can be used to reduce the light output. The dimming function allows you to slowly increase the lighting and then dim them if you want. This can be done with a controller like the Aqua controllers or a simple potentiometer and wall wart. You can also just use a 9 volt battery to run it at 90%. The dimming function is the easiest way to adjust your lights color balance and change it as you acclimate the corals to the light. The voltage and current adjustments are really designed to be adjusted once as you build your fixture and then leave it alone.
By the way the TRP drivers have the 10 volt dimming source built in, so you would just the the potentiometer to dim them. If you do not want the dimming function, you can by pass it.
The Mean wells and Thompson Research Products drivers are very easy to wire in either configuration and much more efficient and cost effective for large builds.
I think most of the power supplies I see people using with the Buck pucks should be avoided around saltwater unless you really know what your doing.
There are many other drivers available from both Mean wells and Thompson Research Products and others, that may be more suitable for your application. Do not get hung up on the ENLs. These are popular because they are the only Mean well with the dimming feature. The ENL-60-48 is designed to run multiple strings in parallel, so running a single strings is not a very efficient use of them(cost or electricity wise). Page 12 and 13 of this PDF have some helpful information on choosing a driver. You can also see how they were intended to be wired in parallel. http://www.meanwell.com/product/images/LED/LED_SF.pdf. There is also some good information here> http://www.meanwell.com/product/led/led_application.html
I have a PDF on all the Thompson Research Products Drivers, but RC would not let me upload it. Email me if you would like a copy of it. Their drivers are available directly from TRP in small quantities. There web site does not list all their drivers but their 100 watt ones are shown here. http://www.thomasresearchproducts.com/LEDDatasheets/TRC-100 Dimming Series 09-20-09.pdf
I hope this helps clear up some of the confusion.
Steve
By the way the TRP drivers have the 10 volt dimming source built in, so you would just the the potentiometer to dim them. If you do not want the dimming function, you can by pass it.
The Mean wells and Thompson Research Products drivers are very easy to wire in either configuration and much more efficient and cost effective for large builds.
I think most of the power supplies I see people using with the Buck pucks should be avoided around saltwater unless you really know what your doing.
There are many other drivers available from both Mean wells and Thompson Research Products and others, that may be more suitable for your application. Do not get hung up on the ENLs. These are popular because they are the only Mean well with the dimming feature. The ENL-60-48 is designed to run multiple strings in parallel, so running a single strings is not a very efficient use of them(cost or electricity wise). Page 12 and 13 of this PDF have some helpful information on choosing a driver. You can also see how they were intended to be wired in parallel. http://www.meanwell.com/product/images/LED/LED_SF.pdf. There is also some good information here> http://www.meanwell.com/product/led/led_application.html
I have a PDF on all the Thompson Research Products Drivers, but RC would not let me upload it. Email me if you would like a copy of it. Their drivers are available directly from TRP in small quantities. There web site does not list all their drivers but their 100 watt ones are shown here. http://www.thomasresearchproducts.com/LEDDatasheets/TRC-100 Dimming Series 09-20-09.pdf
I hope this helps clear up some of the confusion.
Steve
laverda
Well-known member
I was not trying to criticize anyone with my last post. I just wanted to make sure everyone had the correct scoop on the mean well drivers.
I found this driver today that might be more suitable for some of the smaller builds if you only want to drive 1 to 4 LEDS at 350 mA. It wires directly to household current so you do not need a power supply for it and sells for $10. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-...=DispPage&Page2Disp=/specs/ccd-350.htm#Table1
I found this driver today that might be more suitable for some of the smaller builds if you only want to drive 1 to 4 LEDS at 350 mA. It wires directly to household current so you do not need a power supply for it and sells for $10. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-...=DispPage&Page2Disp=/specs/ccd-350.htm#Table1
stugray
Premium Member
"Wow! There is a whole lot of incorrect information in this thread."
"The ENL-60-48 is designed to run multiple strings in parallel"
They are ELN-60-48s, and they are not designed to "to run multiple strings in parallel" they are designed to run ONE string in series.
The LPC models can be used in parallel configurations.
ALL of the ELN series have internal adjustments for current that sets the MAX that the driver will put out.
The ELN-60-48P & ELN-60-48D have ADDITIONAL dimming functions that let an external device control the brightness ( UP TO the internal setting ).
The P version requires a "Pulse Width Modulation" signal whichis most easily done with a micro-controller.
The D version requires a 0-10 Volt DC signal which can be done by various reefcontrollers or the radio shack DIY flavor where you have to turn the knob.
Stu
"The ENL-60-48 is designed to run multiple strings in parallel"
They are ELN-60-48s, and they are not designed to "to run multiple strings in parallel" they are designed to run ONE string in series.
The LPC models can be used in parallel configurations.
ALL of the ELN series have internal adjustments for current that sets the MAX that the driver will put out.
The ELN-60-48P & ELN-60-48D have ADDITIONAL dimming functions that let an external device control the brightness ( UP TO the internal setting ).
The P version requires a "Pulse Width Modulation" signal whichis most easily done with a micro-controller.
The D version requires a 0-10 Volt DC signal which can be done by various reefcontrollers or the radio shack DIY flavor where you have to turn the knob.
Stu
AngelAddict
New member
I don't want to risk running Max leds and blowing something up. I'd rather just run 13 XP-Gs on one and 24 XR-E blues on two other drivers. Since 40/60 is around 14k, my combo is 35/65 and Hopefully more towards 20k. I will use dimmable drivers, but is it OK to not use the dimming feature? Just wire it up as if it didn't have a dimming option? I will probably dim it later after I get it running, see what the color is like. I looked up microcontrollers and didn't find much that fit my application, at least That made sense to me. I don't have a controller, thinking about getting the RKL,but can't count on that. I'd like to just have a seoerate knob to turn and dial up or back the LEDs. Sounds like the D is the driver for me. Is there a write up on the radioshack knob dimmer? I just hate using their stuff, everyone says its junk. Thanks for the help.
Not an expert, but everything i've read so far indicates that you should not use the ELN's in parallel unless you really know what you are doing. Whether it's designed that way or not, i've got no clue, but i would bet it's much easier to wire drivers in parallel when the current is fixed rather than variable.
TheFishMan65
New member
This thread goes into a good description on how to wire the 'D'
Meanwell and how to use it - for Idiots like me
Dimming can be thought of in two ways. Dimming to set you color 14k, 20h, etc. And dawn and dusk. You can use the internal pots of the ELN series for the color no matter which of the 3 varities you get. If you use the P or D then you must have some extrnal control to get them turned on. You must supply a signal or the dimming circuit assumes off. However, this circuit can be a simple 9 volt battery (I read the burn out fast), or a 10 volt regulated supply. Add a potentiometer (for each driver) and you can dim each driver the your desired level. Add a controller and you get dawn and dusk.
Meanwell and how to use it - for Idiots like me
Dimming can be thought of in two ways. Dimming to set you color 14k, 20h, etc. And dawn and dusk. You can use the internal pots of the ELN series for the color no matter which of the 3 varities you get. If you use the P or D then you must have some extrnal control to get them turned on. You must supply a signal or the dimming circuit assumes off. However, this circuit can be a simple 9 volt battery (I read the burn out fast), or a 10 volt regulated supply. Add a potentiometer (for each driver) and you can dim each driver the your desired level. Add a controller and you get dawn and dusk.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1662682
here's one for an external potentiometer for dimming.
AngelAddict
New member
Thanks for the links and help everyone. Yay more reading! I wish there was a detailed sticky, That "LED the write up" thread is just too long to sort tho! I spent a whole night reading it once and didn't even come close to the first split.
TheFishMan65
New member
Angle you need to be a better mind reader 
When I said 50 back in post ten I meant 150.Read second and third post
This is a summary of the LED build process. However the next revision will add a link to your soldering thread which is still short enough (but for how much longer) and has stayed on topic.
When I said 50 back in post ten I meant 150.Read second and third postThis is a summary of the LED build process. However the next revision will add a link to your soldering thread which is still short enough (but for how much longer) and has stayed on topic.
HeneryH
Henery Hawk
Regarding serial vs. parallel... It is not fair to say one is designed for or not designed for one particular architecture. As with everything in life the situation will dictate.
The ELN-60-xx drivers are 60W drivers. This is the upper limit on how many LEDs you can drive.
The ELN-60-48 has a lower current rating (higher voltage rating) so it is more suited to a serial architecture.
The ELN-60-24 has a higher current rating (lower voltage rating) so it is more suited to a parallel architecture.
The electrical properties of the drivers and Cree LEDs dictate that you can run 21 LEDs off the -24 with three strings of seven LEDs each while you can only run about 14 LEDs off the -48 with one string of fourteen.
The decision to go with the serial versus parallel is another story.
The documentation of the Meanwell drivers show the parallel architecture but there is some concern in this community that the parallel architecture may result in current imbalances between the strings and variable brightnesses on the strings.
I don't know if we have enough practical comparisons to know if that worry is real or not. Surely the theory shows that there could be imbalance.
I happen to have wired in parallel and have not had any problems but acknowledge that there could be some risk.
Anyway, rambling on here. Sorry if this was incoherent.
The ELN-60-xx drivers are 60W drivers. This is the upper limit on how many LEDs you can drive.
The ELN-60-48 has a lower current rating (higher voltage rating) so it is more suited to a serial architecture.
The ELN-60-24 has a higher current rating (lower voltage rating) so it is more suited to a parallel architecture.
The electrical properties of the drivers and Cree LEDs dictate that you can run 21 LEDs off the -24 with three strings of seven LEDs each while you can only run about 14 LEDs off the -48 with one string of fourteen.
The decision to go with the serial versus parallel is another story.
The documentation of the Meanwell drivers show the parallel architecture but there is some concern in this community that the parallel architecture may result in current imbalances between the strings and variable brightnesses on the strings.
I don't know if we have enough practical comparisons to know if that worry is real or not. Surely the theory shows that there could be imbalance.
I happen to have wired in parallel and have not had any problems but acknowledge that there could be some risk.
Anyway, rambling on here. Sorry if this was incoherent.
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