LED mix color suggest (12RB:12UV:12CW) ?

[zachtos]

I would like suggestions on an upcoming LED build for my new 300G tank (72" long, 36" wide, 27" deep. Goal is high PAR for SPS reef with a 12-14K MH look.

I am thinking 6 fixtures from rapid LED (6" x 20" heatsink), each running 60 degree optics and 36 LEDs per fixture (plus 4 to 6 moonlights). Prefer to only use 3 LED color if possible, not a fan of the multicolor fixtures. I had great luck with only Royal Blue and Neutral White colors in past, but I hear the PAR on the UV is very wonderful.

Current color plans using single 150watt DC supply and 4 drivers:
12qty Cool-White (XP-G)
12qty UV 410-420 (semiLED)
12qty Royal Blue (XT-E)
+moonlight 6qty Blue (XP-E) with wide 80 degree optic or no optic, could use for mix in day maybe

*will be a custom uController (I build them for a living).


Also planning to build 2 more rapidLED fixtures for a big refugium using 12 coolwhite and 24 red with wide optics.

Below is old build that used 2:1 ratio royal blue:neutral white and 65 degree optics. I found 36 LED gave 400W MH intensity, but only a 18" x 24" coverage, hence why I want to build 6 of these this time, pricey build at $2100.

 

[Ron Reefman]

I agree completely with the 2:1 blue to white ratio. I had a custom EverGrow fixture done 3 1/2 years ago and I have a 1.6:1 blue to white and almost wish I had gone at least 2:1 and maybe even 2.5:1. The blue can be any mix from true UV of just under 400nm to 460nm. The white can be any mix of warm to cool as suits the color look you like in the tank. I'd drop reds and greens as well, unless they can be on a separate channel that can be dimmed WAY down.

Are the PAR readings you show in the photo what the fixture was capable of at 100% power, or what you ran it at with coral in the tank? If it's the latter, what kind of power levels were you running? A PAR of 400 at the sand seems... high?

 

[zachtos]

PAR is at only 12" depth, at 24" depth in old tank, it was more like 150 PAR, and that is with 60 degree optics.

I am still not sure if the UV 410-420nm at such high ratio will work, or if they would be drowned out... or even how much real PAR they put out. Or if it's more about just supplementing the spectrum... I do know the Royal Blue is the PAR work horse though, but maybe different now with the UVs on the market.

 

[theatrus]

PAR is at only 12" depth, at 24" depth in old tank, it was more like 150 PAR, and that is with 60 degree optics.

I am still not sure if the UV 410-420nm at such high ratio will work, or if they would be drowned out... or even how much real PAR they put out. Or if it's more about just supplementing the spectrum... I do know the Royal Blue is the PAR work horse though, but maybe different now with the UVs on the market.

Depending on the LEDs, and the PAR meter you're using, you'll see a fraction of the PAR from the 410-420nm LEDs vs the 450nm - Efficiency isn't good. However, they're great for filling in the look of the tank. I use a mix of about 4 violet (Luxeon UV) to 12 blue (450 and 485nm).

 

[jayball]

I would suggest swapping 2-3 of the cool white to warm white to bring out the amber, orange, and red colors or use nuteral white. Mixing some higher NM blue (470-480) can help fill in the hole around the cyan area and make the florescent red's pop more (too much will make it windex blue though). You can't hurt anything spreading out the violet channel with multiple bin's (say half and half 405 and 420).

FWIW my LED ratio is:
2 - 405
1 - 420
3 - RB
4 - B
4 - CW
1 - WW

I find myself keeping my violet/RB channel at 100% and my blue and white channels around 80% for a nice crisp white.

(All driven around 350 MA)

 

[zachtos]

How about if I have some on the same channel?

Like Whites: Blues: Violets and no other channels (of 36 LED fixture x 6 total fixtures)
12-White = 8 CW - 4 WW
18-Blue = 16 RB - 4B
6-Violet = 6 UV410 (maybe mix some 405 and 420nm)

or maybe 18RB and only 4 UV?

I do agree I do not want red or green odd color LEDs. I guess just good PAR and nice 14K color if all were at full intensity.

 

[theatrus]

You can also consider the Lumiled PC Amber, which is a way to add warm white spectrum with zero blue component - or the lime option. Lots of color choices to play with

I think the mix of CW+WW will help a lot - I really dislike CW on their own or as the dominant white. You could compromise and do all neutral whites at about 4k.

 

[jayball]

How about if I have some on the same channel?

Like Whites: Blues: Violets and no other channels (of 36 LED fixture x 6 total fixtures)
12-White = 8 CW - 4 WW
18-Blue = 16 RB - 4B
6-Violet = 6 UV410 (maybe mix some 405 and 420nm)

or maybe 18RB and only 4 UV?

I do agree I do not want red or green odd color LEDs. I guess just good PAR and nice 14K color if all were at full intensity.

With 4 Warm white you are risking the overall color coming out with a purple tint (I am not sure where the line is drawn, it probably comes down to personal prefrence). People will ovten suppliment with lime or green to counteract this but I agree with you no not use them, I hate the disco on the sand look and with 60 * lens you may be seeing that anyway.

IMO purple is bad, the slight violet/lilac tint from violets is good.

I would bump your violet count back up a bit. If you find yourself running out of room you could always replace a white or two with royal blue to get them out of the way.