LED Optics Question.

Thanks for the discussion. I think it leaves you wth no lenses, but I am keeping mine since the light is 3 feet over the tank.

Enjoy the book.
 
thats how i did my fixture kolo. bunched the leds no optics and keep the fixture 2 inches from the surface. if i wanted to keep the fixture 15'' off the water id just use mh.
 
wisewendell said:
So should I just forget the optics and try to get the LEDs closer to the tank instead? They're about 7.5-8 inches now.
Click to expand...

This is something one should decide for themselves. If you hang the fixture 6" above the water, you would have no choice as optics would be a waste and cause spotlighting if tighter than 90° or so (depends on placement). If it should be 12" or more above the water, then optics may be a good choice, due to light spill at this height. Both methods work, but have different aesthetics and costs involved. Of course, one could start without optics and then reconsider at a later time. Adding them is always an option, if one is not happy with the first results.

I would definitely start without optics and cluster the LEDs toward the mid-axis.
 
Kolognekoral said:
This is something one should decide for themselves. If you hang the fixture 6" above the water, you would have no choice as optics would be a waste and cause spotlighting if tighter than 90° or so (depends on placement). If it should be 12" or more above the water, then optics may be a good choice, due to light spill at this height. Both methods work, but have different aesthetics and costs involved. Of course, one could start without optics and then reconsider at a later time. Adding them is always an option, if one is not happy with the first results.

I would definitely start without optics and cluster the LEDs toward the mid-axis.
Click to expand...

If you saw the video I have them pretty close together, I thought they were 2" on centers but it looks closer to 1.5" on centers.
There's two 14x8 heatsinks with 41 3w LEDs and two 10W leds on each heatsink.
I have the LEDs more open around the 10w LEDs for heat, but if needed I could make the fixture wider and add more LEDs if that would be the way to go, cause now I have the fixture turned up all the way and nothing is bleaching, everything seems to be growing.
...Should I just leave well enough alone?
 
wisewendell said:
If you saw the video I have them pretty close together, I thought they were 2" on centers but it looks closer to 1.5" on centers.
There's two 14x8 heatsinks with 41 3w LEDs and two 10W leds on each heatsink.
I have the LEDs more open around the 10w LEDs for heat, but if needed I could make the fixture wider and add more LEDs if that would be the way to go, cause now I have the fixture turned up all the way and nothing is bleaching, everything seems to be growing.
...Should I just leave well enough alone?
Click to expand...

Well, if the current fixture is working fine, then, yes, don't change it. See how the corals develope under it. The more I work with lighting, the more I think we underestimate a corals ability to adapt. The trick is, let the corals adapt, don't keep changing the parameters. Stability is always the key to any marine system.
 
Kolognekoral said:
Well, if the current fixture is working fine, then, yes, don't change it. See how the corals develope under it. The more I work with lighting, the more I think we underestimate a corals ability to adapt. The trick is, let the corals adapt, don't keep changing the parameters. Stability is always the key to any marine system.
Click to expand...
The coral seem to be growing. My LPS is growing really slow, I think its because I have fairly low nutrients, SPS is growing quite well tho I think and have good color.
I guess I'll leave it and see how things work out.
 
Sorry replace clay-boa.com with led*group*buy.com (without the asteriks). Don't know why the forum board replaces the name.
 
They did not follow RC rules and got banned. I am guessing that they did not listen to the first few warnings so they got really banned. Enough said back on topic so this thread does not get shut down.
 
Kolognekoral said:
Well, if the current fixture is working fine, then, yes, don't change it. See how the corals develope under it. The more I work with lighting, the more I think we underestimate a corals ability to adapt. The trick is, let the corals adapt, don't keep changing the parameters. Stability is always the key to any marine system.
Click to expand...

^^^This is the smartest statement on Reef Central today!

I choose to use 60 degree optics (white LEDs only) to push the light further down in the tank and allow my LED array at 11" off the water level. My reasoning is to reduce the harsh saltwater affects on the heatsinks, LEDs and wiring as much as possible. It also allows easy access without movement of the fixture...because I'm really lazy! The 60 degree optics have perfect coverage for my set up without any cone effect.
 
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