Led photoperiod for sps

[Piper27]

I researched this a little but didn't get any great info. How long do you guys run your leds? I have my evergrow 2040 up to 100 percent but I am not using any optics in order to cover most of my 40 breeder. New to leds zoo I am just wondering what everyone's experience is? How much was too much for your tank?

 

[Denadai]

11:00 AM - 9:00 PM here

I´m using hydra 52...very powerfull, the white color is just 30% here and 60% blue

Best Regards

 

[nazarma]

8 am to 12:00 am. I start with a lot of blue spectrum for a few hours in beginning and end.

 

[Notquiterite]

I am also curious about this, I'm running kessils right now over mine.

 

[Piper27]

Also if you run yours over 8 or 9 hours did you notice any difference in the change to more hours? Better colors, health, growth?

 

[trueblackpercula]

I run my radion g1 from 10:30am to 10:30 pm at 65% and my Sps look amazing now. I was running long and higher intensity and my Sps were pale. I did have other issues that may have contributed to there paleness but lowering my intensity sure helped.

 

[Art13]

12 hour lighting period here as well.

 

[cdmurphy]

I just purchased a Radion G3 Pro to replace one section of the T5's on my 240, still need to get another 3 when the wife lets me spend the money. The consensus seems to be the to have the max output set to 65% which is what I have it set at at the moment with the acclimation period of 4 weeks set a 50%. This will be my second attempt with LED's having jumped on the LED bandwagon and purchasing a PFO Solaris when they first came out. What a mistake that was so I've been very skeptical of LED's ever since. A buddy of mine recently purchased 4 AI Hydra's and is getting some good growth and color from his SPS so I decided to take the plunge again, time will tell I guess. Anyone have any recommendations for the acclimation period while I transition from T5's?

 

[Reefvet]

The problem with all of these anecdotal reports is there is too little information. The photo period is but one factor in using any light source.

For the photo period the be in any way useful we need at the least the following relevant information.

Height of the light from the water
Angle of light distribution -i.e. wide or spot
Settings for color and intensity of the light(s)
Depth of the coral in the tank
Water clarity - i.e. using carbon or not, frequency of water changes, skimmer
Type of coral
Frags or colonies
Alkalinity
Calcium
Magnesium
Are you feeding your corals
Circulation
Temp of tank and light's effect on temp

 

[Notquiterite]

The problem with all of these anecdotal reports is there is too little information. The photo period is but one factor in using any light source.

For the photo period the be in any way useful we need at the least the following relevant information.

Height of the light from the water
Angle of light distribution -i.e. wide or spot
Settings for color and intensity of the light(s)
Depth of the coral in the tank
Water clarity - i.e. using carbon or not, frequency of water changes, skimmer
Type of coral
Frags or colonies
Alkalinity
Calcium
Magnesium
Are you feeding your corals
Circulation
Temp of tank and light's effect on temp

This is true, I have seen lots of threads about people running at lower intensities vs. high intensities (high as 90-100%) but there are definitely other factors that are taken into play. For me as of right now, I have a photoperiod of 11 hours at about 80% but I'm noticing some fading in my montiporas that are being left at the bottom. Although I'm in the process of acclimating them, for some reason I feel that it might be a little strong for them. It can be confusing and frustrating however, because when I use an apogee meter to measure the par, it really isn't all that high where my other acros are, it reads roughly about 150 max at their location, which makes me worried that they need more light. :headwally:

 

[Reefvet]

... I'm noticing some fading in my montiporas that are being left at the bottom. Although I'm in the process of acclimating them, for some reason I feel that it might be a little strong for them. It can be confusing and frustrating however, because when I use an apogee meter to measure the par, it really isn't all that high where my other acros are, it reads roughly about 150 max at their location, which makes me worried that they need more light. :headwally:

I've had the same experience. I have an Apogee and it's been useful but remember it's reading low by 5-10% with LEDS.

Some Monti's have faded at the bottom of my tank while an Orange Setosa sitting right beside them is loving the light and growing quite fast. It's trial and error with Monti's.

 

[Notquiterite]

I've had the same experience. I have an Apogee and it's been useful but remember it's reading low by 5-10% with LEDS.

Some Monti's have faded at the bottom of my tank while an Orange Setosa sitting right beside them is loving the light and growing quite fast. It's trial and error with Monti's.

definitely, if you don't mind me asking... what is your par like at the bottom of the tank and at the top? also the height of the tank and how far above is the light? I'm curious how it is running compared to mine.

 

[Piper27]

The problem with all of these anecdotal reports is there is too little information. The photo period is but one factor in using any light source.

For the photo period the be in any way useful we need at the least the following relevant information.

Height of the light from the water
Angle of light distribution -i.e. wide or spot
Settings for color and intensity of the light(s)
Depth of the coral in the tank
Water clarity - i.e. using carbon or not, frequency of water changes, skimmer
Type of coral
Frags or colonies
Alkalinity
Calcium
Magnesium
Are you feeding your corals
Circulation
Temp of tank and light's effect on temp

If people want to list all of thoes as well it would paint a better picture for sure but some are not really needed for me to get the answer I am looking for. Anyways I couldn't find any threads that discuss it in depth so maybe it would be a good thing to do.

Here is my list if anyone has suggestions shoot. The tank has been up for two months or so and acclimated to this 2040 at 100 percent for 3 weeks or so.


Height of the light from the water
-About 20" I think
Angle of light distribution -i.e. wide or spot
-No lenses just bare leds so I can get a good spread
Settings for color and intensity of the light(s)
-I need some more true white bulbs, there are none, its mainly blues and a few low k whites with reds and violets, way too blue for my liking!
Depth of the coral in the tank
-Bottom to 9 or 10" up in a 40 breeder
Water clarity - i.e. using carbon or not, frequency of water changes, skimmer
-carbon, Gfo (sometimes passive currently in a reactor with heavy feedings), big custom life reef skimz combo 5' high running recirculating, water changes weekly.
Type of coral
-Wild acros, mostly nubby thick branching acros
Frags or colonies
-Colonies and some average sized maricultures
Alkalinity
-8.5
Calcium
-380
Magnesium
-1375
Are you feeding your corals
-Coral snow and such when I get bored, I do heavy fish feedings and rely on them to feed the acros.
Circulation
-Mp40 ********* 90 percent, wp25 wave mode
Temp of tank and light's effect on temp
-75 to 77 or 78 degrees at peak light hours.



Basically I am wondering if a long photoperiod is needed or better with leds. I am used to running halides at 6 hours, which in my opinion was the same results as running them for 8 or 9.

 

[cugly]

Every tank is different finding the right setting for your system along with other variables listed above would be the goal I would get everything else stable first then adjust lights accordingly till you find what works best and every light is different also..

 

[Piper27]

Not sure why my calcium and such needed to be listed as well as a few others but anyways.

Cugly, everything seems like it's stabilized, I have had leds over the corals for a few months but it was a d120, different fixture. Yes, every tank and light are different, that I think most of us understand. I am just trying to find some common ground on what people's photoperiod is. I see people running them at 8 or 9 a day And others around 12 or more... Big difference. So there must be a reason for the large difference, at least I would think. I am trying to figure it out.

 

[cugly]

Not sure why my calcium and such needed to be listed as well as a few others but anyways.

Cugly, everything seems like it's stabilized, I have had leds over the corals for a few months but it was a d120, different fixture. Yes, every tank and light are different, that I think most of us understand. I am just trying to find some common ground on what people's photoperiod is. I see people running them at 8 or 9 a day And others around 12 or more... Big difference. So there must be a reason for the large difference, at least I would think. I am trying to figure it out.

I understand...ya like I said it depends on different variables the way the light penetrates will vary like I notice if my alk is higher and my system is low nutrient a higher setting on my led will start to bleach and if I lower the intensity with the whites it stops..I think photo period can be consistent but the varying of intensity throughout the day would probably have more effects with the corals..just my observations

 

[Reefvet]

definitely, if you don't mind me asking... what is your par like at the bottom of the tank and at the top? also the height of the tank and how far above is the light? I'm curious how it is running compared to mine.

Tank depth is 20" with Kessil A350Ws 3" above the water. Channel 1 is at 100% and channel 2 is at 50%.

PAR at 11" under the light is 350 and on the sand, 23" from the light, it's 180.

 

[Reefvet]

Not sure why my calcium and such needed to be listed as well as a few others but anyways.

Because many SPS will grow in higher light levels, 300-400 PAR, with good Ca/Alk/Mg but bleach with low Ca/Alk/Mg in the same light.

Your levels are good.

 

[Notquiterite]

Tank depth is 20" with Kessil A350Ws 3" above the water. Channel 1 is at 100% and channel 2 is at 50%.

PAR at 11" under the light is 350 and on the sand, 23" from the light, it's 180.

hmm okay, I have the 360WE and since the channels are a little different, I have my intensity set around 90% and the color more towards the bluer spectrum, I guess 75% into the blue side.

 

[Reefvet]

hmm okay, I have the 360WE and since the channels are a little different, I have my intensity set around 90% and the color more towards the bluer spectrum, I guess 75% into the blue side.

I have A360WEs too but they're on a different tank and I haven't had any Monti's in there. I also ramp them through my Apex where I have actual K numbers to work with.

The A360WE is a very strong light and in many ways easier to use. Though it's still given the name TUNA BLUE it cannot produce as limited a range as the A350s could. That's probably a good thing.

Where you have the channels set you're putting out a LOT of light. If in doubt back off on intensity by 10-20% for a couple of days and you'll see you SPS respond.