LED project suggestions

[footyreefer]

Hello all. I sparked an idea for making led fixtures in my electronics class. My professor told me to come up with a list of materials we would possibly need. So I ask you all to give me suggestions on what heat sinks, leds, drivers, and other needed materials. Thanks for any and all input! I should also add that we are soldering and that isn't an issue.

 

[Webmanny]

Maybe add a controller to learn about the programing portion of things. You may also want to add heat thermal paste/glue, wire for connecting the LEDs in series and maybe lenses to demonstrate a full build.

I'm sure I am missing something, but these are the ones that come to mind. Good luck with your project.

 

[footyreefer]

Maybe add a controller to learn about the programing portion of things. You may also want to add heat thermal paste/glue, wire for connecting the LEDs in series and maybe lenses to demonstrate a full build.

I'm sure I am missing something, but these are the ones that come to mind. Good luck with your project.

Thx for the input. I want to know what other types of materials I need so I can make a list.

 

[Webmanny]

Sorry I missed that you were looking for input on everything and not just additional things you were missing. I will share with you what I got for my DIY LED, which I consider the best built I've made so far and I love it.

I will share with you all the components I used for my setup, so you can have the full list.

The reason why I went with 12V and 3 LEDs in series is to avoid having to use special drivers, resistors, etc. In my setup, I use one power supply capable of handling all the LEDs, the controller I mention below and the PCB boards for simplicity, but they PCB boards are not needed. You can do the same thing with just 3 star PCB boards wired in sequence.

First, I buy everything I use from eBay and mostly Chinese vendors and I have never had any issues with my light and I love my light and my corals are growing very well.

Please keep in mind that you always want to have more LEDs than you need and run your light at 60% to 70%. This will greatly extend the life of your LEDs, keep the heat generation down and give you much more flexibility when it comes to PAR measurements and types of corals you can keep.

Recommendations for LEDs calculation:

http://www.rapidled.com/led-university-1/

I'll start with the list of LEDs. The number of LEDs will depend on your size tank. I used this calculator on Rapid LED, but I went with almost double the LEDs.

• Cold White LEDs (Try to go with 14,000K. This gives you a very nice blueish white color)
• Blue LEDs (I would get a mixture of Royal blue and regular blue)
• Green LEDs (You only need a few of these. Don't buy 100, you don't need them.)
• UV LEDs (Also, just a few of them)
• Yellow LEDs (These are optional and so are red LEDs.)

You will also need:

• Heatsink/PCB boards for 3 x 3W LEDs (How many, will depend on your setup)
• Power Supply(I recommend going higher than you may need. You will need to calculate how much you need first. I use a 20amp one, but I only use about 3 amps at high noon.)
• LED Controller 12V 20Amps (This thing is awesome. It handles sunrise/sunset, the speed of the fan and everything in between and is super easy to program)
• Lenses(Maybe... if your tank is very deep. I don't use them, but initially got them)
• Heatsink glue (I used only 1 of these for mine, but if you plan on a larger light, you may need a few)
• Heatsink(The size and quantity depends on your setup. also get the fans)
• Wire (I like this one because it allows me to do 3 separate channels in a single cable)

These are a few pictures of my light. You will see that before I had more whites than blues and I also had everything connected with individual wires. It looked ugly so I went to Home Depot and got the 7 wires cable and changed the setup a bit.

Link

Power supply and controller.
Link

This is a link to a video I took of the sunset to sunrise function of my light. Please note that it has been accelerated X256 for the demo.

http://webmanny.com/post/107358581048/a-quick-video-of-the-automated-dimming-feature-on

 

[footyreefer]

Sorry I missed that you were looking for input on everything and not just additional things you were missing. I will share with you what I got for my DIY LED, which I consider the best built I've made so far and I love it.

I will share with you all the components I used for my setup, so you can have the full list.

The reason why I went with 12V and 3 LEDs in series is to avoid having to use special drivers, resistors, etc. In my setup, I use one power supply capable of handling all the LEDs, the controller I mention below and the PCB boards for simplicity, but they PCB boards are not needed. You can do the same thing with just 3 star PCB boards wired in sequence.

First, I buy everything I use from eBay and mostly Chinese vendors and I have never had any issues with my light and I love my light and my corals are growing very well.

Please keep in mind that you always want to have more LEDs than you need and run your light at 60% to 70%. This will greatly extend the life of your LEDs, keep the heat generation down and give you much more flexibility when it comes to PAR measurements and types of corals you can keep.

Recommendations for LEDs calculation:

http://www.rapidled.com/led-university-1/

I'll start with the list of LEDs. The number of LEDs will depend on your size tank. I used this calculator on Rapid LED, but I went with almost double the LEDs.

• Cold White LEDs (Try to go with 14,000K. This gives you a very nice blueish white color)
• Blue LEDs (I would get a mixture of Royal blue and regular blue)
• Green LEDs (You only need a few of these. Don't buy 100, you don't need them.)
• UV LEDs (Also, just a few of them)
• Yellow LEDs (These are optional and so are red LEDs.)

You will also need:

• Heatsink/PCB boards for 3 x 3W LEDs (How many, will depend on your setup)
• Power Supply(I recommend going higher than you may need. You will need to calculate how much you need first. I use a 20amp one, but I only use about 3 amps at high noon.)
• LED Controller 12V 20Amps (This thing is awesome. It handles sunrise/sunset, the speed of the fan and everything in between and is super easy to program)
• Lenses(Maybe... if your tank is very deep. I don't use them, but initially got them)
• Heatsink glue (I used only 1 of these for mine, but if you plan on a larger light, you may need a few)
• Heatsink(The size and quantity depends on your setup. also get the fans)
• Wire (I like this one because it allows me to do 3 separate channels in a single cable)

These are a few pictures of my light. You will see that before I had more whites than blues and I also had everything connected with individual wires. It looked ugly so I went to Home Depot and got the 7 wires cable and changed the setup a bit.

Link

Power supply and controller.
Link

This is a link to a video I took of the sunset to sunrise function of my light. Please note that it has been accelerated X256 for the demo.

http://webmanny.com/post/107358581048/a-quick-video-of-the-automated-dimming-feature-on

Exactly what I was looking for! Thank you so much for the list. I will read all the links later.

 

[mcgyvr]

uummm.. LEDs need to be powered by a constant current source not a constant voltage source.
That can be achieved with resistors for low power LEDs or "LED Drivers"for high power LEDs.

You cannot "reliably" drive LEDs with a constant voltage source.

 

[footyreefer]

uummm.. LEDs need to be powered by a constant current source not a constant voltage source.
That can be achieved with resistors for low power LEDs or "LED Drivers"for high power LEDs.

You cannot "reliably" drive LEDs with a constant voltage source.

So what current source would you recommend? Link?

 

[perkint]

There are lots to pick from, but one of the most common (for good reason) is the mean well LDDs. LDD-L can be smaller, cheaper, or more powerful. LDD-Hs are older and a little more well established, but still have their advantages (more efficient and run to higher voltage allowing more LEDs on one string).

Tim

 

[Webmanny]

uummm.. LEDs need to be powered by a constant current source not a constant voltage source.
That can be achieved with resistors for low power LEDs or "LED Drivers"for high power LEDs.

You cannot "reliably" drive LEDs with a constant voltage source.

Ugh. Disagree. I've been running LED lights for years in this fashion. The key is matching the supply and demand accurately. Also, please note that the controller will regulate the power level.

Like I said, I've seen people spend hundreds on the brand name "drivers". I've never used one, I have built several lights over the years still in use today and have never had any issues at all.

 

[oreo57]

Hello all. I sparked an idea for making led fixtures in my electronics class. My professor told me to come up with a list of materials we would possibly need. So I ask you all to give me suggestions on what heat sinks, leds, drivers, and other needed materials. Thanks for any and all input! I should also add that we are soldering and that isn't an issue.

What about starting from "scratch" so to speak...
http://www.edn.com/design/led/4363950/Power-an-LED-driver-using-off-the-shelf-components

build your own drivers..

see pg4
http://m.eet.com/media/1155068/25793-_power_an_led_driver_using_off_the_shelf_components_pdf.pdf

 

[perkint]

Ugh. Disagree. I've been running LED lights for years in this fashion. The key is matching the supply and demand accurately. Also, please note that the controller will regulate the power level.

How will it? I don't see any mention on it of being able to react to increasing current demand at fixed voltage.

As the LEDs heat up, if you have them on constant voltage, they will draw more current. This means they will put out more heat (they'll be running on higher power, but no extra light) so will get hotter and draw more current. This is the start of thermal run away and can continue until something ends it, which is usually when the LED blows or you hit the limits of the PSU.

Hitting the limits of the PSU is not good for it, and unless it has protection circuits in, can kill it or even start a fire. Or you could end up trying to draw more current thru the controller than it can deal with (if your PSU has the power capacity) which will again probably kill it and has fire risk.

Drivers, mean well or otherwise, are available from a few bucks. I would never build a high power LED without using them.

Tim

 

[footyreefer]

How will it? I don't see any mention on it of being able to react to increasing current demand at fixed voltage.

As the LEDs heat up, if you have them on constant voltage, they will draw more current. This means they will put out more heat (they'll be running on higher power, but no extra light) so will get hotter and draw more current. This is the start of thermal run away and can continue until something ends it, which is usually when the LED blows or you hit the limits of the PSU.

Hitting the limits of the PSU is not good for it, and unless it has protection circuits in, can kill it or even start a fire. Or you could end up trying to draw more current thru the controller than it can deal with (if your PSU has the power capacity) which will again probably kill it and has fire risk.

Drivers, mean well or otherwise, are available from a few bucks. I would never build a high power LED without using them.

Tim

Can you give me a list of needed materials I would want for my build?

 

[mcgyvr]

Ugh. Disagree. I've been running LED lights for years in this fashion. The key is matching the supply and demand accurately. Also, please note that the controller will regulate the power level.

Like I said, I've seen people spend hundreds on the brand name "drivers". I've never used one, I have built several lights over the years still in use today and have never had any issues at all.

You can't disagree with proven facts.. :lmao: Its basic electronics that LEDs need some form of current limiting.
Yes you can get "lucky" in certain situations but its 100% not the "right" way to power an LED and not reliable at all.

Can one use Duct Tape to replace a bolt?.. Sure it may be possible.. Is it "right".. Heck no.

You simply have gotten lucky so far.

 

[mcgyvr]

Can you give me a list of needed materials I would want for my build?

Can you supply us with the details necessary to answer that question?

Number of LEDs?
Color Temperature of LEDs?
Lumen output?
Tank Dimensions?
Tank inhabitants?
battery powered/line powered?
Line voltage (aka are you in the US with 120V or somewhere with 240,etc...)
Enclosure requirements? (does this need to fit into "x")

and budget? <This question must be answered..


and many more details that you have not provided..

We don't know if you need to light a 10Gallon goldfish tank or a 10,000 gallon coral farm or just need a reading light for books on the toilet..

 

[footyreefer]

Can you supply us with the details necessary to answer that question?

Number of LEDs?
Color Temperature of LEDs?
Lumen output?
Tank Dimensions?
Tank inhabitants?

and many more details that you have not provided..

We don't know if you need to light a 10Gallon goldfish tank or a 10,000 gallon coral farm or just need a reading light for books on the toilet..

I basically want to make a light similar to the size of an AI fixture. I want to be able to light my 40 br. If I have to make two fixtures than so be it. The more leds I can put on the fixture the better.

 

[oreo57]

The reason why I went with 12V and 3 LEDs in series is to avoid having to use special drivers, resistors, etc. In my setup, I use one power supply capable of handling all the LEDs, the controller I mention below and the PCB boards for simplicity, but they PCB boards are not needed. You can do the same thing with just 3 star PCB boards wired in sequence.

Certainly wouldn't break the bank throwing in one $1 resistor..
http://www.onlinecomponents.com/nte...7AFBA20-BF40-4FB5-89F1-439E43E158E5cspNHHbNNk

 

[perkint]

I basically want to make a light similar to the size of an AI fixture. I want to be able to light my 40 br. If I have to make two fixtures than so be it. The more leds I can put on the fixture the better.

You really still need to supply more info to get something which will suit your purposes. What sorts of corals? Clams? Anemone? Passive cooling or with fans? Enclosed? Hanging?

To make an LED for a reef tank, you need a way of keeping the LEDs cool (heat sink/fans), the LEDs (eg lumia 5.2s), constant current drivers (eg mean well LDDs), a power supply to run it all, wires to hook it all together and a way to hold it over the tank. That's pretty much it! If going DIY, it'd be a shame to not add a controller as well, such as an arduino or off the shelf solution (bluefish, storm X, etc). Within that criteria are a million variables. Different people will have different preferences and different set ups will have different requirements.

Tim