I've always been in the software end of the tech business. I have no idea when it comes to manufacturing electronics. I wonder how Steve's populates their 3-ups?If a pick and place can't reliably put down a two terminal device of that size it's brokenThe mainstay of capacitors and resistors are a lot smaller (0402 and under)...
LEDBrick Project - DIY pendant w/ pucks
- Thread starter theatrus
- Start date
Was that the Borealis array? If so, I have two of them over a 40 breeder and like them a lot. Only issue, in my opinion, is that it had too many lime green LED's. Nothing I couldn't dial down via controller and dimming but other than that, they are great. Still running one year into them.
I'm planning migrating the 40 breeder into a 240 gallon tall so looking for a new set of multi chips like the Borealis but with a reasonable price. I could go with 48" heat sinks and just fill with my color choice or multi chips...
EDIT: Anyone send Rapid a email and ask why they stopped making/selling the Borealis? A while back I asked if he had any in stock and said no, but he could probably get some.
Rough estimate is about 10" above waterline. One per 10" x 6" heat sink. LDD's and reefangel controlling them.
Yeah, very high up honestly but I have a pair so that was the main reason why higher. Especially over the 40 breeder even with that height I think it is too much light.
Yes, lots of light dispersion. Let me attach a image of what they look like. I do have a piece of reflective/aluminum but it isn't like a true reflector. If I had one it would be a huge help. Right now I'm mostly keeping soft corals outside a few hammers...but I feel the array could grow anything if truth be told. I'm just lazy about water quality
Ignore the single row of LED's behind them. I am testing some LED's for a moon light...
Attachments
Looks good.
I'm not judging on water quality
Thanks on the water quality
I've been following the thread because I'm interested in what you are doing. I'm just not experienced enough with this floating or mounting my own emitters stuff. I don't mind wiring the stuff together or other small electronics. I just threw together a LED system for my daughters 40 breeder planted and shrimp tank using a 48" wide heat sink. I like it a lot and was thinking I'd use 3 of those over the 240 gallon I'm considering.In the end I'm just trying to think of how I'd manage the number of MeanWell LDD's necessary if I go single chip or multi and a cost break down
theatrus
100-mile-commuter
If anyone was curious what I meant about the Luxeon Z radial fan design, here is a mockup:
16 emitters in the center of the reflector, in a radial pattern which makes it easy to make a nice symmetric copper pour fan over the entire surface of the emitter. Thats about the best you'll get with the density given.
If someone really wanted a 4ch version, doing this with a pair of inputs and outputs on both sides would be possible. Maybe I'm thinking too much "Kessil" and going for a fixed spectrum layout.
16 emitters in the center of the reflector, in a radial pattern which makes it easy to make a nice symmetric copper pour fan over the entire surface of the emitter. Thats about the best you'll get with the density given.
If someone really wanted a 4ch version, doing this with a pair of inputs and outputs on both sides would be possible. Maybe I'm thinking too much "Kessil" and going for a fixed spectrum layout.
If anyone was curious what I meant about the Luxeon Z radial fan design, here is a mockup:
16 emitters in the center of the reflector, in a radial pattern which makes it easy to make a nice symmetric copper pour fan over the entire surface of the emitter. Thats about the best you'll get with the density given.
If someone really wanted a 4ch version, doing this with a pair of inputs and outputs on both sides would be possible. Maybe I'm thinking too much "Kessil" and going for a fixed spectrum layout.
oooooh, nice! didn't think about that layout, could do a lot more than four channels using that method of so inclined and still get the heat dissipation needed I think.
And where can I learn your powers, lol
theatrus
100-mile-commuter
theatrus
100-mile-commuter
On a lighting related tangent, I'm currently testing an amplifier board for the new Apogee SQ-500 sensor, which is more accurate and covers more of the relevant spectrum.
Full thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2562740
Full thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2562740
theatrus
100-mile-commuter
Along with some other parts, I grabbed a few of these SMT terminal blocks.
Works great with both stranded (if the end isn't mangled) and solid core wire. The removal slot can be pushed in with a piece of solid core wire if you don't have a small screwdriver.
I'm pretty impressed with them.
Works great with both stranded (if the end isn't mangled) and solid core wire. The removal slot can be pushed in with a piece of solid core wire if you don't have a small screwdriver.
I'm pretty impressed with them.
so does this go on any multi meter or just a certain oneOn a lighting related tangent, I'm currently testing an amplifier board for the new Apogee SQ-500 sensor, which is more accurate and covers more of the relevant spectrum.
Full thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2562740
theatrus
100-mile-commuter
Any (that has the standard 0.75inch spacing between terminals - break out a ruler to check). You switch to the millivolt or low (2 or so) volt range and read PAR directly (ignoring the decimal point if you are in the 2V range).
I'm going to spin an Arduino version as well, might as well.
