Let's talk about water quality in an SPS tank.
- Thread starter JB NY
- Start date
coolfishy101
Member
I have also found it useful to rinse off any new equipment before it enters the tank. There is always the possibility of oils or manufacturing chemicals coating the equipment and causing tanks with perfect conditions to lead to some RTN or bleaching.
NaH2Ofreak
Premium Member
NuclearReefs, that is an interesting idea concerning the Iron Oxide based PO4 removers causing the RTN issues in tanks that have no refugium. Has there been an sort of "poll" done on this factor???
Dennis
Dennis
BigDaddyIII
Premium Member
here is a question... many use carbon for chemical filtration
what is the consensus on products such as chem-zorb and phos-zorb?
what is the consensus on products such as chem-zorb and phos-zorb?
kalk dripping
kalk dripping
The tap water in my area have lots of impurities like phosphate,silicates....... etc and I do not have a DI/RO unit to purify it. I change my 10% of my water every week with NSW bought from nearby LFS.
Can I run my kalk reactor with my tank water tee off from the return pump instead of mixing it with my tapwater? I do not have much evaporation issue cos I change my water every week and running my chiller at 26C-26.5C. My use of the kalk is mainly to stablise the ph and alk as i'm also using a calcium reactor.
Can show a pic of ur baffles in ur sump? I'm currently using the filter floss in between 2 baffles to prevent air bubbles from my beckett skimmer flowing to my return pump...........without the filter floss, the air bubbles can still go through the 2 baffles. And I hate to change the dirty filter floss every 2 days.
ktm
kalk dripping
The tap water in my area have lots of impurities like phosphate,silicates....... etc and I do not have a DI/RO unit to purify it. I change my 10% of my water every week with NSW bought from nearby LFS.
Can I run my kalk reactor with my tank water tee off from the return pump instead of mixing it with my tapwater? I do not have much evaporation issue cos I change my water every week and running my chiller at 26C-26.5C. My use of the kalk is mainly to stablise the ph and alk as i'm also using a calcium reactor.
Can show a pic of ur baffles in ur sump? I'm currently using the filter floss in between 2 baffles to prevent air bubbles from my beckett skimmer flowing to my return pump...........without the filter floss, the air bubbles can still go through the 2 baffles. And I hate to change the dirty filter floss every 2 days.
ktm
JB NY
Active member
Re: kalk dripping
Re: kalk dripping
The water change should have no effect on evaporation. I change out about 13% weekly and still evaporate about 5 gallons a day.
I don't understand your question about adding kalk. Do you want to just mix kalk with the tank water and add it?
Re: kalk dripping
ktm said:
The water change should have no effect on evaporation. I change out about 13% weekly and still evaporate about 5 gallons a day.
I don't understand your question about adding kalk. Do you want to just mix kalk with the tank water and add it?
aquariumclown
New member
You cannot use tank water (saltwater) for mix with kalk. It will bind to the salt water like cement.
JB NY
Active member
Yes.
Some general information
The worst in terms of toxicity is caulerpa racemosa.
Fish that continually eat unnatural amounts of caulerpa will die.
Stony Coral growth is inhibited by noxious emissions of caulerpa when in close proximity.
Caulerpa produce toxic metabolites that can be toxic in small concentrations to urchin larvae within 24 hours, some toxic to fish within 1 hour.
50% of conchs died within 6 days feeding on Caulerpa caulerpenyne at very high levels.
Most of the toxins are located in the tips of young growing plants and reproductive structures. So the more you prune it the higher levels of toxins get released due to the pruning.
If you can find them, check these studies
Meinesz, Alexandre and Simberloff, Daniel. 1999. Killer Algae.
University of Chicago Press, Chicago. pp. 295-304.
Littler, Diane Scullion and Littler, Mark Masterson. 2000. Caribbean Reef Plants.
OffShore Graphics Inc, Washington, D.C. pp. 356-380
Hashimoto Y, Fusetani N, Nozawa K.
Screening of the toxic algae on coral reefs. 569-572.
Anjaneyulu ASR, Prakash CVS, Raju KVS, Mallavadhani UV. 1992.
Isolation of new aromatic derivatives from a marine algal species Caulerpa racemosa.
J Natural Products 55(4): 496-499.
Some general information
The worst in terms of toxicity is caulerpa racemosa.
Fish that continually eat unnatural amounts of caulerpa will die.
Stony Coral growth is inhibited by noxious emissions of caulerpa when in close proximity.
Caulerpa produce toxic metabolites that can be toxic in small concentrations to urchin larvae within 24 hours, some toxic to fish within 1 hour.
50% of conchs died within 6 days feeding on Caulerpa caulerpenyne at very high levels.
Most of the toxins are located in the tips of young growing plants and reproductive structures. So the more you prune it the higher levels of toxins get released due to the pruning.
If you can find them, check these studies
Meinesz, Alexandre and Simberloff, Daniel. 1999. Killer Algae.
University of Chicago Press, Chicago. pp. 295-304.
Littler, Diane Scullion and Littler, Mark Masterson. 2000. Caribbean Reef Plants.
OffShore Graphics Inc, Washington, D.C. pp. 356-380
Hashimoto Y, Fusetani N, Nozawa K.
Screening of the toxic algae on coral reefs. 569-572.
Anjaneyulu ASR, Prakash CVS, Raju KVS, Mallavadhani UV. 1992.
Isolation of new aromatic derivatives from a marine algal species Caulerpa racemosa.
J Natural Products 55(4): 496-499.
ssbreef
New member
This is a very interesting and also a very long thread. I did read about 5 pages deep and didnââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t see anything on micro bubbles. My tank parameters are all in check except for the clarity of my water due to micro bubbles from a 802 powerhead that I have in my tank. Could the micro bubbles be causing me any problems with coral coloration? I have tried everything and I can't get good color out of my corals, All of my parameters are in check and very stable and I'm starting to get a little frustrated. Could the micro bubbles be the culprit?
Great thread.
I have recentlly upgraded to a 320g sps tank with about 450g total water volume. After my upgrade I got a bit burned out and got lazy on my water changes, it was a lot of work. Went on month long holidays had some one to feed the tank, check equipment and that was it. I think my skimmer stopped working soon after I left.
After I got back from holidays my tank was pretty messed up, hair algae, cyro and corals not looking super happy and now a couple of months with out water changes!!
So I've got back into it for a couple of weeks and I'm keen lots of water changes, things are looking better. Cyro is basically gone, hair algae is slowing. corals coloring up.
Sorry for rambling on... JB NY here is my question: I read you run 'passive' carbon. I've been doing the same for years and was thinking going more of a 'active' flow through carbon system. Is there a reason you don't? I've read a few opinions that passive can be a waste of time??
Also do you run a fluidized reactor for P04 removal media?
Any one suggest a good carbon system or fluidized reactor?
Dave
I have recentlly upgraded to a 320g sps tank with about 450g total water volume. After my upgrade I got a bit burned out and got lazy on my water changes, it was a lot of work. Went on month long holidays had some one to feed the tank, check equipment and that was it. I think my skimmer stopped working soon after I left.
After I got back from holidays my tank was pretty messed up, hair algae, cyro and corals not looking super happy and now a couple of months with out water changes!!
So I've got back into it for a couple of weeks and I'm keen lots of water changes, things are looking better. Cyro is basically gone, hair algae is slowing. corals coloring up.
Sorry for rambling on... JB NY here is my question: I read you run 'passive' carbon. I've been doing the same for years and was thinking going more of a 'active' flow through carbon system. Is there a reason you don't? I've read a few opinions that passive can be a waste of time??
Also do you run a fluidized reactor for P04 removal media?
Any one suggest a good carbon system or fluidized reactor?
Dave
JB NY
Active member
vair said:
I run the carbon in a bag in the sump, mainly because it is easier than using a reactor.
I think the carbon run through a reactor is a better way to do it. It;s just a little more work.
I do run PO4 remover in a fluidized reactor. I am currently using the TLF Phosban reactor, but am switching to a Deltec reactor this week. The TLF seems to have problems every few months and would leak, I've gone through two of them so I just broke down and bought the Deltec.
Joe,
I thought that the TLF Phosban reactor was not a Fluidized reactor. Isn't the media sandwiched tightly in the chamber?
I was running ROWA fluidized and it always seemed to cloud the water for me. Even at low flow levels, so I was considering the TLF model but not if it's fluidized as well.
I thought that the TLF Phosban reactor was not a Fluidized reactor. Isn't the media sandwiched tightly in the chamber?
I was running ROWA fluidized and it always seemed to cloud the water for me. Even at low flow levels, so I was considering the TLF model but not if it's fluidized as well.
I recall someone (maybe even Julian) stating that ....the media when placed in the reactor should be sandwiched tightly between the two pads, otherwise the constant friction when fluidized would break up the media into fine particles. I think this is even more important with PhosBan vs. ROWA.
Is that the way you use it or is it Fluidized? and if it is Fluidized, does it break up for you?
Sorry about the thread detour guys.
Is that the way you use it or is it Fluidized? and if it is Fluidized, does it break up for you?
Sorry about the thread detour guys.
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