Lets Talk Stability - Are these numbers stable enough for SPS?

how often do you have your hands in the tank? I find that greatly affects the chemistry in the tank, and it's not something that can be measured.
 
Hands arent in the tank all too often really. Couple times a week maybe?

I've been feeding a bit more lately including reef chili, and the water seems to be a bit more nutrient rich based on looking at my sandbed as well as glass cleanings. When I test PO4 and NO3 the results are

NO3: 2.5
PO4 : 0
So its kind of wierd that I have a algae growing on the sandbed, and I have to clean the glass daily, but NO3 and PO4 test so low.

Everything else stills table, and things are continuing to decline unfortunately. I have a few SPS that are on their way out. Its really confusing me.. I am not sure what to do really. I am starting to think maybe its the flame angel because some pieces that have been doing fine for months (setosa) are starting to show burnt tips. Nothing really has changed in the system that I can test for..

Some things still bleached even on the sandbed.. Is there anything else besides too much light that makes corals become translucent? For example a scoly, and favia on the sandbed are really light colored, as well as a couple rhodactis mushrooms.
 
Hands arent in the tank all too often really. Couple times a week maybe?

I've been feeding a bit more lately including reef chili, and the water seems to be a bit more nutrient rich based on looking at my sandbed as well as glass cleanings. When I test PO4 and NO3 the results are

NO3: 2.5
PO4 : 0
So its kind of wierd that I have a algae growing on the sandbed, and I have to clean the glass daily, but NO3 and PO4 test so low.

Everything else stills table, and things are continuing to decline unfortunately. I have a few SPS that are on their way out. Its really confusing me.. I am not sure what to do really. I am starting to think maybe its the flame angel because some pieces that have been doing fine for months (setosa) are starting to show burnt tips. Nothing really has changed in the system that I can test for..

Some things still bleached even on the sandbed.. Is there anything else besides too much light that makes corals become translucent? For example a scoly, and favia on the sandbed are really light colored, as well as a couple rhodactis mushrooms.
I know you're using T5 lighting, but I found with my Kessil A360we's I have to start all my corals in indirect lighting and slowly move them out into the sun so to speak or they bleach out like crazy. Maybe reduce your light intensity and or length of photoperiod. Maybe try some screening over the top of the tank to act as shade cloth. You're not going to kill your corals with less light at this point.
 
Not sure if it's the issue with your tank but Flame Angels are notorious for picking on many Corals, especially at night.
 
The thing is that some corals are progressively getting worse, so I *think* there is still some trouble with the tank or things would be stabalizing and then getting slowly better. I hope you are right though.

I have almost no PE at all, even shortly after lights out. I think this is due to the flame angel. The tank is currently consuming 11ml or ALK, and 22ml of CA on a daily basis.

Any update? Do coral look better yet?
I also suffered no PE and burn tips during my alkalinity correction, at the end of correction, I did careful 20~25% water change twice in a week, I think that help my tank quickly stabilize and coral are happy again. Just bring up something that you may think about.

you can check my latest post here http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2470271&page=10
 
The only question I have, and it may have been addressed but I overlooked it, is what do you dose? In the past, on more than one occasion, I have had issues due to dosing too much and most things we dose we rarely test for, if at all (besides calcium, mag, etc). You might want to try just water changes with good water (RO/DI) and quality salt and then after several changes, slowly and carefully begin dosing again. Just a thought. Ray
 
Any update? Do coral look better yet?
I also suffered no PE and burn tips during my alkalinity correction, at the end of correction, I did careful 20~25% water change twice in a week, I think that help my tank quickly stabilize and coral are happy again. Just bring up something that you may think about.

you can check my latest post here http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2470271&page=10

Unfortunately, no they do not. I am sure there is something else at play here, but I do not know what. All the normal things you look at for SPS are where they should be.

Flow
Lighting
Temp
Ph
Alk
Ca
Mg
SG
PO4
NO3
RODI 0 TDS

I think I will start doing more regular water changes like you suggest and see if that helps. Currently only doing like 10% per month. Will start doing 10-15% weekly.
 
The only question I have, and it may have been addressed but I overlooked it, is what do you dose? In the past, on more than one occasion, I have had issues due to dosing too much and most things we dose we rarely test for, if at all (besides calcium, mag, etc). You might want to try just water changes with good water (RO/DI) and quality salt and then after several changes, slowly and carefully begin dosing again. Just a thought. Ray

I dose randys two part, as well as acropower (once a week). That's pretty much it. Magnesium when needed as well.
 
I change 5 gals a week on my 72 gal total system even if all my parameters are perfect. More water changes never hurt, just don't change too much at once.
 
Yeah. I did 20% yesterday, will probably do another 10% this weekend and then maybe 15% every weekend going forward after that. If this doesnt work, going to pull my hair out :D
 
I know your TDS is zero, but if your water district uses chloramines, and you haven't changed out your carbon block in the ro recently, you should try that. I beat my head against the wall with similar issues for months until I changed all of my ro/di filters except the membrane and the tank turned around quite rapidly.
 
Interesting acesq. I didnt think the change the Carbon block. How often is that supposed to be changed out? I am at one year right now using it, probably made about 500 gallons or so in total. I did replace the DI resin some time ago.

Here is my RODI system:
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-4-stage-value-plus-ro-di-system-75gpd-1.html

The water report for my county from 2012 is located here:
http://www.pbcgov.com/waterutilities/CCR2012.pdf

EDIT: I tested my water with a pool test kit I have, and both my RODI waste + make up water both tested 0.00 for chlorine. Not sure if the test kit has enough sensitivity to test levels that would effect corals. I will replace the sediment and carbon filters regardless, its worth a shot.
 
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I'm sorry if already asked but do you run GFO, or bio pellets? If so I would bet my tank one of them are the cause of your problems.
Looks to me like a stripped tank you need nutrients and until you get some in there I would try to lower the light by either raising it or putting screen over the tank.
 
Interesting acesq. I didnt think the change the Carbon block. How often is that supposed to be changed out? I am at one year right now using it, probably made about 500 gallons or so in total. I did replace the DI resin some time ago.

Here is my RODI system:
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-4-stage-value-plus-ro-di-system-75gpd-1.html

The water report for my county from 2012 is located here:
http://www.pbcgov.com/waterutilities/CCR2012.pdf

EDIT: I tested my water with a pool test kit I have, and both my RODI waste + make up water both tested 0.00 for chlorine. Not sure if the test kit has enough sensitivity to test levels that would effect corals. I will replace the sediment and carbon filters regardless, its worth a shot.

You water system does use fairly high levels of chloramines, at least as high as mine. Take a look at the BRS videos on their test of carbon blocks to remove chloramine. The standard blocks become exhausted very quickly. My conclusion from it all was that the chloramine and its byproducts made the SPS very light sensitive. Whether this is a fair conclusion, I don't know. I do know that since I started changing my filters more regularly, the SPS have fully recovered. The recover might have been due to something else, and it may not work for you, but its worth a shot.
 
Things continuing to degrade after the 25% water change..

IMG_2841_zps6vjg9l43.jpg


IMG_2842_zpsep8lqmf4.jpg


Look at the dead tip
IMG_2845_zpsbvzjqrlj.jpg


Dead tips as well starting to get algae growth on them
IMG_2847_zpsg6kvs8bb.jpg


This one started to color up nicely, and now dying like the rest..
IMG_2840_zpsv4evguer.jpg
 
I know this is a stupid answer. But maybe you should try dosing a different brand, a lot of people use randy 2 part and it's tried and true. But try esv bionic and see if anything improves. Your light is very low as well. Your probably getting 600-700 par on the rocks and 300-400 on the sandbed. Raise it 10-12 inches
 
I see that flame angel back there also. These fish can sometimes irritate every single coral in your tank if you get a bad one. I owned one that would nips monti caps all day till they brown and die back. But I doubt this is it.

Not to beat a dead horse but I'd look more into your lighting, I know when you dim a bulb t5, halide, anything that needs energy to create a specific color you can be causing the bulb to degrade faster and at 60% your not getting the spectrum you bulbs are supposed to put out.

Someone else suggested turning it to 100% and lifting the fixture up, that's what I'd do and maybe a few drops of lugols in case it's an infection.
 
I see that flame angel back there also. These fish can sometimes irritate every single coral in your tank if you get a bad one. I owned one that would nips monti caps all day till they brown and die back. But I doubt this is it.

Not to beat a dead horse but I'd look more into your lighting, I know when you dim a bulb t5, halide, anything that needs energy to create a specific color you can be causing the bulb to degrade faster and at 60% your not getting the spectrum you bulbs are supposed to put out.

Someone else suggested turning it to 100% and lifting the fixture up, that's what I'd do and maybe a few drops of lugols in case it's an infection.

I will have to do some research to see if spectrum shifts with lowering the bulb %. I remember someone from ATI stating it does not effect bulb length and they had posted this long explanation about it.

Just now I was doing a water change, and I noticed the fan in my sump had some water on it, likely from collecting evaporating water OR from salt spray. I am wondering if the paint could be eroding and going into the water column? I have now raised the fan and screwed it onto the stand ceiling so its a good 6-7 inches from the water.

I can spot some rust on the fan, and I am sure this thing was likely constantly moist..
 
Just wanted to update this thread incase it proves useful for someone else in the future.

My tank has had a great turn around since my last post. All SPS are doing better and finally showing PE. Colors are looking nice, and I can almost see growth happening on a daily basis (mostly encrusting on rocks still). Huge difference, I dont have one coral that doesnt look happy anymore. I am still running lights at like 35% FYI and seems to be the right spot. Definitely this light is 100% too strong for my tank.

Here are the things I changed that I feel made a difference, but I am not sure if it was ONE of these things or a combination of them

1. Light cycle not ramping up/down through the day as much. Only one hour ramp up/down as was suggested in this thread
2. Lifted fan off sump about 6 inches and its not longer moist and collecting water that would go back into tank.
3. Running poly filter and changing it every 2-3 weeks
4. Weekly water changes (was doing them far less often before)
5. Change the carbon block in RODI

So big thanks to all who contributed in this thread specifically those who made the suggestions above that seemed to have worked. What a difference, literally every coral looks extremely happy, even the ones that were STN'ing before have turned around and have PE and color now.
 
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