Hi guys, I put this same question in the new to hobby section, but wanted to cross post. What is the process for leveling large tanks on installation? I get the water level part, but how to you get the shims under with large tanks given the weight. Are you guys using metal or wood stands? I got a 250G 96"Lx20"Dx30"H.
Leveling large tanks on install?
- Thread starter inetmug
- Start date
dave.m
Active member
That is determined more by the floor. If you are going on a concrete floor then you'd pour a layer of self-leveling concrete, let it dry, and then install the stand, rechecking for level. For other flooring you'd install the stand first and make sure it is level with shims before adding the tank. Waiting until you put water in the tank is too late as it is, as you have pointed out, too heavy to do much with.
Dave.M
Dave.M
Slab should be slopped to the drain.
Not if the slab is in the middle of the house. However, the garage, yes. The main house slab should be very close to or at level.
Keep forgetting you guys build houses on slabs instead of basements in the south. In a basement it should be slopped to the drain.
But that said, you need concrete placers that really know what they are doing and care to get an actual level slab. I've never seen one that is good or cares even. They kind of get it eyeball level and move on.
LOL.... right on both accounts. I build houses down here. I did not build my house, bought it from on of the track builders years ago, mainly due to location, they owned the lot. Not a bad build overall. I am used to laser leveling everything I do.
And yes, no heaving soils in FL (normally), so monolithic slab is the norm.
I build a lot of live load structures, which require a PE, which I am not. But, for simple stuff, like a stand, here is a good resource...
https://courses.cit.cornell.edu/arch264/calculators/example7.1/index.html
And yes, no heaving soils in FL (normally), so monolithic slab is the norm.
I build a lot of live load structures, which require a PE, which I am not. But, for simple stuff, like a stand, here is a good resource...
https://courses.cit.cornell.edu/arch264/calculators/example7.1/index.html
dave.m
Active member
What's wrong with the epoxy coatings for garage floors?
Also, for the stand, you would only need to pour a self-leveling pad as big as the stand, not the whole pad. If the design of the pad is integral to a wall then I would extend the pour of the mini-pad to include the wall, as well.
Dave.M
Also, for the stand, you would only need to pour a self-leveling pad as big as the stand, not the whole pad. If the design of the pad is integral to a wall then I would extend the pour of the mini-pad to include the wall, as well.
Dave.M
Dapg8gt
New member
There is a company based out of Florida named epoxy tec that we use for wastewater applications. They have hundreds of products that are for various tasks. We use them to reinforce brick manhole structures and an 1/8" layer has triple the load bearing strength as concrete/mortar.
The rep was just showing us some that was used in a garbage transfer station. It was a 2" coating with huge loaders scraping on it daily for 6 months and it was cherry still.. Well minus the garbage lol.
Are you building the stand or buying it?
I found it easier to build my stand to compensate for the slap difference rather than to try and level the slab.
Awesome guys, thanks!
I am a big west system fan on the boat side of the house. Great product, with the 404 filler super strong. But as you say, pricy. For a boat I go no other way.
I guess I was more asking about "cheaper alternative, but epoxy is epoxy I guess. i will look into epoxy tech.
Today, I was able to shim the stand all around, so far so good. Level within about a 1/16 on the corner overflows via water measurement at full capacity (FW fill to check), and fore and aft. Not sure I could do any better on a flow-set
As soon as I got my head around the water level versus any other level, it all started to work.
I am a big west system fan on the boat side of the house. Great product, with the 404 filler super strong. But as you say, pricy. For a boat I go no other way.
I guess I was more asking about "cheaper alternative, but epoxy is epoxy I guess. i will look into epoxy tech.
Today, I was able to shim the stand all around, so far so good. Level within about a 1/16 on the corner overflows via water measurement at full capacity (FW fill to check), and fore and aft. Not sure I could do any better on a flow-set
As soon as I got my head around the water level versus any other level, it all started to work.
Hey guys, so far so good, I am checking all systems with FW before going to the final SW stage as I wanted to see things work. I have one last question...
The system is up, loaded with FW (no rock or sand), and it is level withing 1/16-1/18 left to right, and front to back. The tank had no "racking" with an inch of water, meaning the tank was solid on the stand.
The twp overflows are loaded I have a brand new dolphin pump, 4750GPH. However, I am getting some air out of the left side and none from the right. The system comes from the sump to the UV to a manifold spliiter for two returns. I have played with the overflow heights, and can "see" no air from the manifold via the reinforced tube to the return system. I just noticed a slight link in the right side hose, which could introduce some additional velocity/pressure on the one side. The only thing I can see from evidence is if I remove a 45 degree connector from the left (bubble producing) side, is I get 10-12 seconds of bubble free performance, and then it returns. When I plug the left side I get no air out the right....
At first I thought it was the air turbulence on the overflow, and the return was not sealed and picking up the air, but I taped it up and brought it a foot higher and nothing changed.
My guess is the slight kink is causing an overpressure on the one side, is this correct or am I smoke medical weed? Suggestions on what to look for ---- no leaks so far.
The system is up, loaded with FW (no rock or sand), and it is level withing 1/16-1/18 left to right, and front to back. The tank had no "racking" with an inch of water, meaning the tank was solid on the stand.
The twp overflows are loaded I have a brand new dolphin pump, 4750GPH. However, I am getting some air out of the left side and none from the right. The system comes from the sump to the UV to a manifold spliiter for two returns. I have played with the overflow heights, and can "see" no air from the manifold via the reinforced tube to the return system. I just noticed a slight link in the right side hose, which could introduce some additional velocity/pressure on the one side. The only thing I can see from evidence is if I remove a 45 degree connector from the left (bubble producing) side, is I get 10-12 seconds of bubble free performance, and then it returns. When I plug the left side I get no air out the right....
At first I thought it was the air turbulence on the overflow, and the return was not sealed and picking up the air, but I taped it up and brought it a foot higher and nothing changed.
My guess is the slight kink is causing an overpressure on the one side, is this correct or am I smoke medical weed? Suggestions on what to look for ---- no leaks so far.
dave.m
Active member
I suppose it is possible that the kink might introduce enough pressure to cause cavitation but it would have to be a pretty severe kink. Replace the hose if it is bothering you and see if that does the trick, but nine times out of ten the problem is a tiny leak where air is getting sucked in by the pull of the water flow. Re-glue your permanent joints and wrap all your other joints with Teflon tape. Smear a gob of silicone around the Teflon tape. Silicone won't adhere to Teflon, but it will bead and fill in all the tiny gaps between the threads.
Dave.M
Dave.M
Well, I replaced the hose for good measure, and no change. Are you saying there could be air being pulled in and no leaks if the filter if on,.... or off? Would I see a leak with the pump off over time?
I also stopped in an amazing LFS today in Tampa, Creative Aquariums of Tampa, big dollar place. Really nice shop. High end installs. The one person there was not the installer, but he told me that sometimes you need to slow down the flow, and that they drill a hole in the bottom of the 90 degree that comes off the vertical tube in the sumps. I will stop by tomorrow to hopefully get some time with the owner.
http://creativeaquariumsoftampa.com/index.html
I also stopped in an amazing LFS today in Tampa, Creative Aquariums of Tampa, big dollar place. Really nice shop. High end installs. The one person there was not the installer, but he told me that sometimes you need to slow down the flow, and that they drill a hole in the bottom of the 90 degree that comes off the vertical tube in the sumps. I will stop by tomorrow to hopefully get some time with the owner.
http://creativeaquariumsoftampa.com/index.html
Similar threads
