Life Without a Sump?

[hebygb]

I have had, and on my 90 gallon cichlid tank still do, a HOB overflow. It has been running without failure for 2 years straight. Yes planning is important... plan for your sump to handle the water incase of failure, and your tank to handle the amount of water in your sump. I have read that some have placed there sump in a "tray" as a failsafe should the sump overflow. I have done two things that I feel are required when running a siphon (HOB) overflow.

1. auto top off to your sump... this prevents you from having too much water in your sump should there be a failure of the overflow.

2. Despite my overflow being a single U-tube design, I have a second U-tube running next to the original that is extra tall. This way... should there be a failure of one the long one NEVER will lose siphon because the ends are always below the minimum water level. Don't woory about too much water leaving the tank... the drain can only handle 600 gph and the supply to the tank is the same.

 

[wolf pup]

akaatomic I would like to add to your comment on check valve technology if thats ok. Back in the day I was associated with installing RPZ valves on underground irrigation to prevent back siphon contamination of municipal water systems. These were inspected yearly and serviced if needed. The point of this is that ANY device (be it a RPZ valve, a jet engine, or even a check valve) should be inspected on a regular basis according to both the duty cycle and the manufacturer recommendations. ANY mechanical device will eventually fail if not maintained. Time erodes everything. With that said, check valves operate in environments much more harsh than saltwater aquariums and as long as you don't by the $3.99 specials but instead do some research and maintain the device, they will prove reliable and trouble free. And for the "siphon break holes never fail" crowd - these need to be kept clear of debris also or they will also fail. Nuff said...thanks.

emoutz - with the assistance of others and some research you will solve your problem and be able to go back to enjoying your hobby.

 

[avp]

emoutz-

Don't throw in the towel just yet. If you do a search on RC, there's a good thread called "sumpless" (or something close) that is about people who are having success without using a sump. It's quite informative. Running sumpless can be done.

-avp

 

[SlowCobra]

AKAAtomic I will say this as nicely as possible, try reading comprehension. By claiming I said ARTICLES, that denotes an actual magazine or accredited source laying claim to the eventual failure of any check valve used. I said POSTS which denotes people on REEF CENTRAL, be it a manufacturing flaw or their own fault due to purchasing cheap quality, poor maintenance, etc, have claimed that their check valves have failed. If you want to find all of these posts that I have read of people saying not to use them, that they failed on them, etc have at it. I am not wasting my time to help further fuel this debate. At this point you certainly fit the first part of my signature and I have nothing further to say to you.


On the other good advice posted for the original poster, please set the system up properly and do not rely on fail safe devices. Siphon break holes rank up there with check valves. They are band-aid solutions.

You will be amazed at how simple and more than likely free, or damn near free, it will be to simply reconfigure your plumbing a little and enjoy an over-flow free tank.

If you want I will even go take pictures of my 75gal Non-Reef ready that I setup for my mom. She is not completely mechanically inept but it is configured so that should she ever kill the siphon of the HOB the tank has room to fill up and NOT overflow.

The wet/dry used also has enough space and the return plumbing high enough in the tank that should the power ever go out it will siphon down but it will NOT overflow the sump.

 

[akaatomic]

1. You never said "articles". Pay attention to what you yourself write.
2. I am not a fool. I'm actually well educated. I believe you've adopted that signature as a scapegoat as to why you never win an argument.
3. You are the one speaking in absolutes. You earlier post said that check valves WILL fail. If they are high quality and maintained, they won't. Stop scaring people away from good technology because you don't understand it.
4. This heated discussion is entertainment for me. I'm just enjoying getting you fired up. haha.
5. I'm guessing that on your mother's tank the return line is only a few inches below the surface of her display tank and enough room is left in the sump to accommodate the extra water volume. This is also a good alternative and works very well. Add this to the list emoutz.

 

[raddogz]

Akaatomic - you did write that SlowCobra read "countless" articles. The only time he wrote "countless" was when he was referring to posts hence his defense.

Back on topic - the one thing that I have read and have experienced with using a check valve is that it does restrict flow somewhat so your mileage may vary.

 

[akaatomic]

Ahh point noted. I guess to help out emoutz, there's a few options listed in this thread that can help your situation. Don't give up on your tank. It sounds like you just need to make some plumbing changes. If you choose to ditch your sump then good luck. It can be done. It may or may not work for you, so keep your sump components handy in the event that you decide to add your sump back down the road. Sorry to everyone for flaming this thread. And SlowCobra...rock on man.

 

[Octopussie]

well i just put a 120v spring loaded silinoid valve on my return line, so when the power goes out the valve closes. i highly doubt any build up in the valve is gonna stop a spring loaded rod.