Lighting advice for new 93 gallon cube

[dleute]

Be sure to check out the poll!

What I would like to know is what options are the bare minimum, which are ideal and which are overkill. How many of each light do I really need? (things I'm considering are below).

Here's background, tank info and what I've already considered:

I'd like lights that are capable of growing anything on a mixed reef tank. I don't want to be limited by what I can buy due to lighting as my LFS is minimally stocked and I likely have to deal with what they have. I have a seneye for par metering. I will likely have some SPS, but it won't be SPS heavy.

I am intending to do lighter live rock in a two towers configuration (if I can pull that off) with marine pure or brightwell xport in the sump to compensate for minimal rock. Yes, my tank may be lord of the rings themed. Might try and aquascape helm's deep.

Some other requirements:

1. I would really like good apex controllability in the future.
2. I'd like to get the best bang for my buck over short and long term.
3. Ideally I would have decent controllability now (won't have apex for a while)
4. Relatively easy on tank mounting (hanging is problematic but doable in a pinch so on tank is preferred).

The tank is 30x30x24. It's the 30 front to back that concerns me. From what I've read, most LED lights really drop off at 18 in at least one direction making at least 2 units necessary.

Some things I've considered and my comments:

2 - 4 hydra 26 hd: good value and controllability now and later (word is new apex controls these without additional modules?). Probably best value for functionality.

1 - 2 Radion XR30w G4: Possibly best LED lighting on market currently (BRS metering). Biggest con is cost if 2 units and reef link are needed.

2 - 4 kessil: Could be cheapest if 4 A160w kessils can do it. 4 A360w would match radion pricing but 2 would be a great option. Don't know how I feel about shimmer yet.

1 - 2 RapidLed Corona: Built in controllability, but no apex. Great value financially. (hands down cheapest solution). I was seriously considering Onyx for apex, but they are no longer available. 2 of these is a no brainer, 1 would be huge cost savings.

1 24" T5/led hybrid (36" would look silly?): All of the different brands/models have the same flaw: Unclear APEX controllability. Cost is a mixed bag due to bulb replacement. Possibly best overall lighting.

I'm open to other suggestions. I don't want anything DIY. There is no canopy. There is a glass cover that I may or may not use.

Sorry for the long post. This is my first tank and I'm a bit overwhelmed by all the options.

Any feedback/thoughts are welcome.

Thanks!

--Derrek

 

[johnike]

I have a pair of Hydra 52's over mine.

 

[Greybeard]

I recently hung a 250w DE halide pendant over my 60 cube. Plenty of light

 

[dleute]

I have a pair of Hydra 52's over mine.

The reason those weren't in the list is the power per led is larger on the 26. And for the price, it seemed like you get more bang for your buck with 26 HD.

It's interesting to me that the 52 is not twice the wattage of the 26. Could this be purely due to efficiency?

But that's why I haven't looked at them. For slightly more money, 26's give a lot more movement/power flexibility.

But that is sufficient light? Could one do it?

--Derrek

 

[Chicagoreef2016]

I recently hung a 250w DE halide pendant over my 60 cube. Plenty of light

Hey Greybeard, I seem to recall you having some LED's over your tank initially when I was following your build. Were they not giving you the growth you wanted? I have a 60 cube with the Hydra 26HD, and am contemplating switching to T5s based on recommendations from someone who has been doing this for 15 years.....at least that way if I know the growth is not there I can cross off the lighting as the potential issue.

 

[Ben A]

T5s are great as your main source of light. They give good growth and better color than Halides. I would recommend some LED supplemental lighting to go along with the T5s to give the corals a pop.

 

[75mixedreef]

I use a RapidLED Aurora puck kit and love it on my 46 bowfront. The plan is to add in 2 T5 bulbs when I upgrade to my 75, which is still in the build phase. On a cube tank you could do something similar, but you might want 2 of the dual puck kits. I got my dual puck kit on 2 different heat sinks. This way I can spread them out a bit, doing the same thing on a cube would allow you to equally distribute the light, then use T5s to supplement with the softer light.

 

[dleute]

T5s are great as your main source of light. They give good growth and better color than Halides. I would recommend some LED supplemental lighting to go along with the T5s to give the corals a pop.

Is the pop a visual thing or a nutritional thing?

I like the idea of a hybrid, but I want to buy something not build it. So Giesemann Aurora or ATI Powermodule Hybrid are two that are on BRS. The Aurora is android only for controllers. That rules it out if true (unless it's built-in controls are spectacular). ATI is not explicit about control. If it's windows only, also out.

I don't really know how controlling either of those work with or without apex or a windows computer.

One other concern: One of the T5 bulb manufacturer's is discontinuing production of some T5? Is T5 bulbs going away a concern for people?

Thanks for the response!

--Derrek

 

[Greybeard]

Hey Greybeard, I seem to recall you having some LED's over your tank initially when I was following your build. Were they not giving you the growth you wanted? I have a 60 cube with the Hydra 26HD, and am contemplating switching to T5s based on recommendations from someone who has been doing this for 15 years.....at least that way if I know the growth is not there I can cross off the lighting as the potential issue.

Yup, Aquaticlife Halo. Colors were great, loved the ability to control the color and intensity, loved the form factor, power usage, ramp-up/down, built in timer... loved everything about it... except that my corals weren't growing.

With the 250w DE 14k halide, I _know_ the problem is not the light.

If this wasn't an open top design, I might well have gone with T5's. Just wouldn't work with the overall design of this system.

 

[dleute]

I use a RapidLED Aurora puck kit and love it on my 46 bowfront. The plan is to add in 2 T5 bulbs when I upgrade to my 75, which is still in the build phase. On a cube tank you could do something similar, but you might want 2 of the dual puck kits. I got my dual puck kit on 2 different heat sinks. This way I can spread them out a bit, doing the same thing on a cube would allow you to equally distribute the light, then use T5s to supplement with the softer light.

This looks really interesting! I ignored the diy kits because most of them are too much work. But this is essentially half done. I basically put the electronics together.

Was it difficult to put together? And I assume the channels could be controlled via the standard apex port later on? I imagine since there are 3 drivers I could get one that works now and later or possibly even swap out later?

This is an awesome suggestion! Thanks!

--Derrek

 

[Zacktosterone]

I recently hung a 250w DE halide pendant over my 60 cube. Plenty of light

i have the same fixture, amazing hamilton bimini sun pendent

 

[75mixedreef]

This looks really interesting! I ignored the diy kits because most of them are too much work. But this is essentially half done. I basically put the electronics together.

Was it difficult to put together? And I assume the channels could be controlled via the standard apex port later on? I imagine since there are 3 drivers I could get one that works now and later or possibly even swap out later?

This is an awesome suggestion! Thanks!

--Derrek

It was relatively easy. The hardest part (of the light itself) was the calibration for the current. I did make my own harness though for easy disconnection and maintenance, but it turned into a hassle that just made everything more difficult to set up. I do recommend sealing connection since we are working near water though and I was glad I did that (even though it has never been tested).

They do have an Apex setup that you can connect into, I don't have an Apex though so I'm not sure how that works. I went with the PWM control and am using an Arduino controller my brother made for me to control it. Before I had the controller, I just used a 9V power supply to turn on the lights. I would not want to rewire it so just go with a long term solution. It should not be a problem if you wanted to, and I did make the wiring far more complicated than necessary, I would just have it dialed into what you want and run it at 100% if you need to run it without the Apex. I'm assuming the Apex uses a PWM control so without a controller you would just do what I did with a power supply and limiting the current in the driver rather than at the dimmer input. Then when you get the controller you would turn it back up to the recommended current setting and dim it using your controller.

 

[dleute]

It was relatively easy. The hardest part (of the light itself) was the calibration for the current. I did make my own harness though for easy disconnection and maintenance, but it turned into a hassle that just made everything more difficult to set up. I do recommend sealing connection since we are working near water though and I was glad I did that (even though it has never been tested).

They do have an Apex setup that you can connect into, I don't have an Apex though so I'm not sure how that works. I went with the PWM control and am using an Arduino controller my brother made for me to control it. Before I had the controller, I just used a 9V power supply to turn on the lights. I would not want to rewire it so just go with a long term solution. It should not be a problem if you wanted to, and I did make the wiring far more complicated than necessary, I would just have it dialed into what you want and run it at 100% if you need to run it without the Apex. I'm assuming the Apex uses a PWM control so without a controller you would just do what I did with a power supply and limiting the current in the driver rather than at the dimmer input. Then when you get the controller you would turn it back up to the recommended current setting and dim it using your controller.

That's interesting. Honestly, what I want is the equivalent of what was available with the onyx. I'll send rapidled an e-mail and see what I need to do the equivalent.

How did you mount them?

--Derrek

 

[Chicagoreef2016]

Yup, Aquaticlife Halo. Colors were great, loved the ability to control the color and intensity, loved the form factor, power usage, ramp-up/down, built in timer... loved everything about it... except that my corals weren't growing.

With the 250w DE 14k halide, I _know_ the problem is not the light.

If this wasn't an open top design, I might well have gone with T5's. Just wouldn't work with the overall design of this system.

How come you couldn't go T5? Couldn't you just hang a fixture from the ceiling? Or are you referring to the overall aesthetics of the look?

 

[rtparty]

A 250w halide in a good reflector would be nice. You will have to figure out a hanging solution more than likely.

An 8x24w ATI Sunpower would also rock that tank. The LED/T5 Powermodule would be great but they do need a Windows based computer to program last I checked. You can find cheap Windows laptops all day. All it needs to do is work. Specs won't matter. Or run Parallels on an Apple.

If going straight LED I would look at the Philips CoralCare (you will have to import it from Europe and figure out the 220v connection) or the GHL Mitras.

 

[75mixedreef]

That's interesting. Honestly, what I want is the equivalent of what was available with the onyx. I'll send rapidled an e-mail and see what I need to do the equivalent.

How did you mount them?

--Derrek

Mounting was interesting I started with a 2by4 frame just to get it up. In the 75 in will be hung from the hood. I'll just make a place where I can get the wire around a piece of wood and let them hang there where I can adjust the placement. It comes with a hanging kit that I would recommend if you are able to use it.

 

[Greybeard]

How come you couldn't go T5? Couldn't you just hang a fixture from the ceiling? Or are you referring to the overall aesthetics of the look?

The ceiling is vaulted, hanging a light _directly_ over the center of the tank from as 12', 30° beamed ceiling would be a nightmare... especially for an old fat guy like me that very much likes to keep his feet firmly planted on mother earth.

The Bimini sun reflector is hanging from the Halo mount that I already had, with minor alterations. I drilled two holes in the top of the light, and attached a 1x1/8" aluminum bar, on 1/2" standoffs. A hole in the center of that bar, and an M4 nut, nice and secure. Doesn't look as good as the Halo did, but it looks OK.

 

[Superpuma]

My cube is 40x36x20, my aim was to use one fixture. To cover the 36 inch front to back l've tried vertex led, reefbreeders, pacificsun hybrid and ATI Sirius x4 led, best for rendition, coverage , coral growth / colour and my appeal is the ATI.

 

[Helfish]

Is the pop a visual thing or a nutritional thing?

I like the idea of a hybrid, but I want to buy something not build it. So Giesemann Aurora or ATI Powermodule Hybrid are two that are on BRS. The Aurora is android only for controllers. That rules it out if true (unless it's built-in controls are spectacular). ATI is not explicit about control. If it's windows only, also out.

I don't really know how controlling either of those work with or without apex or a windows computer.

One other concern: One of the T5 bulb manufacturer's is discontinuing production of some T5? Is T5 bulbs going away a concern for people?

Thanks for the response!

--Derrek

On mac you can use Giesemann Futura software to control Aurora. It does not display specific t5 channels, but you can still control everything

And I would also pitch GHL Mitras 7206, Kessil ap700 or Giesemann Futura, if you want 100% LED

 

[johnike]

The reason those weren't in the list is the power per led is larger on the 26. And for the price, it seemed like you get more bang for your buck with 26 HD.

It's interesting to me that the 52 is not twice the wattage of the 26. Could this be purely due to efficiency?

But that's why I haven't looked at them. For slightly more money, 26's give a lot more movement/power flexibility.

But that is sufficient light? Could one do it?

--Derrek

One could do it for softies, not SPS.