Lighting for corals? and Feeding corals?
- Thread starter mjc041800
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mjc041800
New member
So what watt, T, and k should I get for a 24" light and a 30 gallon bow front tank that is about 19" high? I also want a light that is more on the blue side.
What lighting is needed for these kinds of corals leather, zoas, star polyps, pulse, mushroom, and SPS? I have heard so many different things. Also how often should I feed them and how much, any tips on what to feed them? Thank you so much, it really means a lot!!!
mjc041800
New member
Also what are considered the low,moderate, etc. ranges for lighting? watt, T, color, and k wise.
Saltliquid
New member
Okay you have to understand that the larger the polyp is sort of, the less need for lighting!
The large polyp is for catching rarer lighting!
The small polyp acro species evolved to survive in shallowish strong lighting or deep very clear waters and strong movement environments.
There are so many variables with lighting, you can have intense lighting over a deep tank, then the larger polyps go at the bottom then softies in the middle and the smaller polyp-sps at the top.
Ultra violet radiation is useless and harmful for all photosynthetic life, that's why corals have their own sunscreen that we copied and put on our selves, all plants grow far better under artificial light.
Water defuses light as does air, glass and so on, more watts and less optic width, then you have more power to take the colours that inspire photosynthesis down to the tanks floor, embedded or just actual colours do this, nothing else!
I run 10 watt tubes of quarter watt 50/50 blue and cool white diodes with 60 degree optics in 2 foot led tubes over my bottom tank and a 100 watt fan cooled fitting of 3 watt diodes with 80 degree optics of multi coloured diodes over the top one, high light dependent life up top and low light dependant life in the bottom tank.
If you use multi coloured diodes you get a good mix of Ks and far more.
The only reason you use blue is that it is the colour that goes the deepest at the strongest into the water, cool white diodes have all colours in them as white always does, the way to do it is use a mix of coloured diodes!
3 watt diodes always and 100 or more watts per 2 feet of tank and 120 degree optics for 16 inch depth, 100 degree optics for 18 inch depth, 80 degree optics for 20 inch to 22 inch depth and any deeper use a mix of 80 degree and 60 degree optics, optics means the lens on each diode that narrows the beam of light to make it go further/deeper.
If you use small optics in shallow water, they will make spots on the floor and be semi useless.
Diodes can last 10 to 20 years when adequately cooled and T5s tubes and metal halides bulbs last 4 to 6 months before they begin to degrade, still on and really bright, but as for photosynthetic use, going down hill!
The large polyp is for catching rarer lighting!
The small polyp acro species evolved to survive in shallowish strong lighting or deep very clear waters and strong movement environments.
There are so many variables with lighting, you can have intense lighting over a deep tank, then the larger polyps go at the bottom then softies in the middle and the smaller polyp-sps at the top.
Ultra violet radiation is useless and harmful for all photosynthetic life, that's why corals have their own sunscreen that we copied and put on our selves, all plants grow far better under artificial light.
Water defuses light as does air, glass and so on, more watts and less optic width, then you have more power to take the colours that inspire photosynthesis down to the tanks floor, embedded or just actual colours do this, nothing else!
I run 10 watt tubes of quarter watt 50/50 blue and cool white diodes with 60 degree optics in 2 foot led tubes over my bottom tank and a 100 watt fan cooled fitting of 3 watt diodes with 80 degree optics of multi coloured diodes over the top one, high light dependent life up top and low light dependant life in the bottom tank.
If you use multi coloured diodes you get a good mix of Ks and far more.
The only reason you use blue is that it is the colour that goes the deepest at the strongest into the water, cool white diodes have all colours in them as white always does, the way to do it is use a mix of coloured diodes!
3 watt diodes always and 100 or more watts per 2 feet of tank and 120 degree optics for 16 inch depth, 100 degree optics for 18 inch depth, 80 degree optics for 20 inch to 22 inch depth and any deeper use a mix of 80 degree and 60 degree optics, optics means the lens on each diode that narrows the beam of light to make it go further/deeper.
If you use small optics in shallow water, they will make spots on the floor and be semi useless.
Diodes can last 10 to 20 years when adequately cooled and T5s tubes and metal halides bulbs last 4 to 6 months before they begin to degrade, still on and really bright, but as for photosynthetic use, going down hill!
Last edited:
Coralreefer1
New member
Not all corals require the same lighting conditions. Many corals will adapt by changing one strain of zooxanthellae for another to accommodate the light intensity or lack thereof. Placement of a coral in your tank can be used to negate the high PAR of your lights as well as allow you to get by with lesser lighting intensity by placing corals high in your tank. Remember that light represents just one component in the health and growth of your corals. Water parameters, neighboring corals, fish and inverts can also impede your corals success.
CStrickland
New member
I think first you decide what you want to keep, like other posters said corals that rely more on photosynthesis need more light. So you can read up on the needs of the thing you want to grow. Then decide on a bulb type, depending on whether you want to be replacing them and if you have heat issues or electricity is expensive etc as well as personal taste for colors. Diff bulbs have diff issues for getting the intensity and colors correct so you need to learn about setting them up too. Once that research is done you just pick a brand with good reviews.
My vote for a new to the hobby easy-button light is these http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2474870 I really like mine and they were under a hundred each, but I don't have any expensive or picky coral. Just regular hammers and zoas and brains.
My vote for a new to the hobby easy-button light is these http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2474870 I really like mine and they were under a hundred each, but I don't have any expensive or picky coral. Just regular hammers and zoas and brains.
JammyBirch
Aquaria Engineering
I keep both LPS and SPS, with good results using the reefbreeder value fixture. My tank is 18" deep. If I were you I'd get a reefbreeder LED or get a 4-6 tube CFL fixture with a mix of bulbs.
As for feeding I feed all of my corals the same thing, ReefRoids, I feed them ~1/16 tablespoon once a week, I feed them about an hour after lights out.
Corals are easy, if you give the, what they want.
As for feeding I feed all of my corals the same thing, ReefRoids, I feed them ~1/16 tablespoon once a week, I feed them about an hour after lights out.
Corals are easy, if you give the, what they want.
scooter31707
New member
you can grown all them under MH, LED, or T5s. It's a matter preference of which one you want. MH and T5s give off way more heat than LEDs. If you choice T5s, don't get no cheap fixture, suggestions will be ATI or Aquaticlife. LEDs you don't have to change the bulb in them like you do MHs and LEDs which should be around every 8-10 months. So corals can be grown under all 3 light fixtures which each one has their own pros and cons.
Eg, for lps, 9" below a 250 watt 10000k-13000k Metal Halide with 2 HO actinic blues, 1 hours blue only at wakeup, 6 hours of both blues and MH, 1 more hour of blues.
SPS takes more light and crystal clear water. Montiporas are a bit more tolerant of conditions, but colored-stick sps are real fussy and will decline quickly: they eat light for the major portion of their diet: they're highly photosynthetic.
SPS takes more light and crystal clear water. Montiporas are a bit more tolerant of conditions, but colored-stick sps are real fussy and will decline quickly: they eat light for the major portion of their diet: they're highly photosynthetic.
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