Lighting upgrade needed for new clams

[graffyn01]

I need help, my little brain is burnt out :eek1:

I have researched my brains out, now I am just asking the experts for advice. I currently have a 90 gal with 260 W PC lighting housing 2 Squamosa's and a Deresa with no problems.

I want to upgrade my lighting with Metal Halide to support Maxima's and Crocea's. Attached is a picture which shows my dilemma, I have a canopy top that only has a 4" clearance from the top of the tank, the one pic shows a 48" csl PC (2x65) that is 4.5" high and the top barely closes. I do not wish to remove the canopy.

I am looking at a 48" retro (2x175 w/wo 2 48" vho) or anything that will work with this situation. Problem is:
1. Height
2. Too close to the water
3. Heat
4. Must I put the glass tops back on?

I don't know if you can recommend a particular (manufacture & model) retro on this forum but if so please do.

Thanks, I would really like to get some Maxima's but want to do it right.

 

[ReefEze]

Do you have a chiller?

RE

ps you may possibly be able to get a really small maxima/crocea, but it as high up as you can, and feed it alot. Anyone else agree? I'm not sure about this...

 

[graffyn01]

No chiller.

My next thought was to try 2 70 watt mogul base retro's.
1. smaller bulb
2. not as hot as 175's
I understand that the Hqi's run hotter so I do not want them

So if I can find 70's, then I would have 2 70w MH (10,000) and 2x65 actinic pc.

Btw the tank is in a south facing room which is lite very brightly by natural sunlight and the sunlight passes thruogh the tank from left to right about an hour a day (nice effect)

Open to any suggestions.

 

[Peabody]

I would not get the 70s, I think you might regret it. That's not much light for a tank your size. Heck, I'd go with 250s no question for a tank that size! Don't worry that much about heat. I have a 175 and 55watt PC over a 15 gallon with no heat problem! (No chiller)

You know (as mentioned before), with a tank your size, I would think 2x175 + actinic is about minimal for clams, and maybe not that freat for Maximas and Crocea. It wouldn't even be that much for Derasa's and Squamosas since they'd likely hop down to the sandbed Your tank is 18" high, no? Most people reccomend 250s for tanks that size. If I were you, I'd forget about the 70s, and put some serious thought into 250s. BELIEVE ME, you don't want to skimp on the light, you'll just end up realizing you want/need more, then you'll spend much more $ than if you had gotten the better lights in the first place.
HTH,
Jeff

 

[graffyn01]

Hmmm, agreed. Ok, money aside, If I get a 48" 2x175 retro that is 10-12" wide and 4-5" high will this work? the reflector will touch or almost touch the glass top.

Or If I get 2 seperate spider reflectors (175 each).

I need to be able to close the canopy top, which has 1" gaps in the wood design for ventalation.

I think it would get too hot and be too close to the glass tops but as I am new to Metal Halide and don't know. I have seen some bulbs that are a straight tube and others that are bowed out in the center, I think the straight tube may work but it would probably only be 3" from the glass top.

Thanks

 

[graffyn01]

Opinion needed.
What about installing a Aquastarlight Future 2x150 hqi pendant which is 48x5x3. It would only be 3" above the water line.

 

[karl wagner]

How attached are you to the canopy?


I've ditched mine and have been SO HAPPY that I did.

I switched to the Aquaspacelight, 2 x 250 HQI w/ PC acitinic.

Definitely plenty of light for my clams (derasa, 2 maxima, 2 squams) , I run a 4 foot 120 gallon tank, and have no problems.

Plus, with the abandonment, you can look into your reef and view things more properly, and you don't lose any light/colors through the glass. Check out the difference in this link.


http://community.webshots.com/album/57859563MarmKo

 

[graffyn01]

Unfortunately the canopy must stay, part of the matching room decor (the living room set and tank were purchased together to accomidate each other). Besides the wife won't allow it to be removed.


Do you think this unit will be ok under the canopy? well ventilated and only 3" above the water line?

Thanks

 

[karl wagner]

The owner's manual states that the light should be placed 12" from the water's surface. (Probably same for all aqua medic stuff.)

I've heard of people dropping them down lower, but I didn't opt for that.

Like I said. Ditch the canopy and you're home free.

If you can't do that, you're extremely limiting yourself for clams, as proper lighting would require a chiller.

Just explain to the wifey that the tank will still match the decor without the canopy, and that it's the best environment for the fish, so that they don't get too hot and die...


"I'm actually saving money in the long run." try that one.

 

[Critter!]

Airflow.........

Airflow.........

IMHO heat should not be a problem if you take consideration of the need for good air flow within the light system.

I my Hamilton 6' deluxe system placed right on the top of the tank. It has 3 - 175 MH and 6- 55 PCs. The system comes with two fans.. There is an acrylic lens. This means that the system is almost sealed, resulting in a very good airflow that runs the full distance of the system from the left end opening though the light system exhausting through the right end opening. The fans are at each opening. One pushes in and one pushing out. The Fans are the 4ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ ~ 80CFMs that Hamilton show on their web site. I run only the puller fan in the winter, and both in the summer. Check it out: www.hamiltontechnology.com Great system. BTW: I do have safety hanging cables so that the system cannot be accidentally pushed into the water.
John