Lighting Website Updates

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12337415#post12337415 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sango-chu
I have read that the 12k reeflux are REALLY blue already. I will make the rack ready to host some VHO's but not sure what spectrum yet, what to wait to see the initial running of lights first. Will keep you guys posted.

Thanks guys!!!!!
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The 12k ReefLUX start out very blue but, once they're burned in (about a week in my experience), they're very crisp white.
 
sigh, thanks. I will need to definintely supplement; I like the mild blue you can see when you go snorkeling inthe warm waters of the Okinawa island of Japan...

Do you guys think four 96 watt aticnic will be enough on a 9 foot tank that's 24 inches deep?
 
Because they are expensive as Heck out here. You'd be surprised of the cost of things when you don't get them wholesale and I been convinced the reeflux are better ...but only time ans patience will tell...
 
You might want to talk with PaulErik on that one, but I doubt the ReefLux (a CoralVue product) is better than the pheonix in quality, and their spectrums are nearly identical. But I hear you on the price... I just assumed that they would be super cheap in Japan...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12348642#post12348642 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hahnmeister
You might want to talk with PaulErik on that one, but I doubt the ReefLux (a CoralVue product) is better than the pheonix in quality, and their spectrums are nearly identical. But I hear you on the price... I just assumed that they would be super cheap in Japan...
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I'll second that............but we must define "better" :lol:

I'd imagine the Reeflux would work fine on your average electronic ballast, the color is good & growth seems to be fine.

On an M80 ballast - not so much, short & glorious life as you so aptly put it. Mine burned out in 6mos.

I'd wager they are NOT M80 spec bulbs.

Phoenix? Yep, the are definitely M80 spec if lifespan, growth, and color shift (lack of) are the determining factor. Given a bad turn I went mostly FOWLR - they're were still firing & looking the same after about 24mos (not likely very good PAR after that long, but they work & look the same as when new)
 
Whew!!!! Thank goodness that I icecap electronic ballasts that will be running my MH 250w reeflux'es...I would really hate to have to buy bulbs EVERY 24 months.... Electricity out here is expensive to begin with...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12353799#post12353799 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sango-chu
Whew!!!! Thank goodness that I icecap electronic ballasts that will be running my MH 250w reeflux'es...I would really hate to have to buy bulbs EVERY 24 months.... Electricity out here is expensive to begin with...
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No matter what bulb you are getting, if you are running a reef tank you need to be changing them every 12-18mo's...MOST bulbs will need changed every 12 mo's, while some of the HQI speced bulbs run on E ballasts or M80 ballasts will still have decent output at 18mo's. THere aren't any bulbs that I know of that will put out decent PAR at the 24 mo mark....but hahnmeister may know...He has more experience with lightbulbs it seems :D
 
Naw, Imma good with the 12 month tiime frame. Just would need to pre order 12 bulbs at first then keep a running stash coming every 6 months due to mail time...that initial "investment" would be like a swift kick to the church-bells at one shot...sigh...
 
its 118.25 long by 25.5 high by 23.5. These are the numbers as they convert from metric to imperial.

Outside dimensions that is... the walls are 5/8th thick or 15mm arcylic.
 
118" long is basicly 10 feet. Generaly you place metal hides every 2 feet that would mean a total of 5. units. With the 25 1/2 " hieght 250 watt bulbs should work fine provided you choose bulbs with a hiogher par rating than some of the 14,000K to 20,000K bulbs a lot of people seem to favor.

And as far as bulb life I would set up some regular schedule where you replace at least 2 bulbs every year. pushing three years on even the best MH bulb is risky.

Dennis
 
Thanks TropTrea. Never actually looked at it from an imperial measurement view before cause since I am in Japan I got wrapped up in the 3 meter length thingy; but you're right: 10 feet. I have 4 LA that I will put in with the 250's centered in the tank and then I was thinking about experimenting and using two 175's on the outter edges of the tank for those less light loving pieces. I am in LOVE with SPS's and this tank should be SPS dominant but the availablility of SPS variety here on Okinawa is limited and almost impossible to find someone to ship here because no overnight service (has to go thru Tokyo first and sit at customs for a day or two before further shipping to the Island). Since this is my plan A idea, I will be making a angled aluminum light rack that will allow me to side/adjust reflectors accordingly to meet the tank's/coral's unique needs.
 
Ooopps, sorry, forgot to make mention that my second LOVE is the sun corals and ricordias which both need moderate-to-low light and water that is not moving as fast.
 
6500k

6500k

Hi Guys

Have a quick question for you ,I'm going to be running 2x 400w 6500k Iwasaki Bulb on my new sps system .Tank size 55" 32" 24"

I used to run 250w reeflux bulbs 10000k on my old sps but fancy a change so opted for the 400w 6500k Iwasaki Bulb .
Now we all know to well the orange,yellow look I'm going to get form the 6500ks so i would like to tone it down with some blue T5 narvas.
What sort of wattage do you think i will need to bring back the look towards the 10000k area.

If you think the Navas are not the T5 bulb needed what T5 would you say go for .

Forgot to say that I'm running coral view 400w ballasts with 2x large lumenarc reflectors

Thanks guys

yours

jas
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12131086#post12131086 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by PaulErik
The company lists all of the lamps HQI metal halide lamps. It’s just a general term that is used for many different things and the meaning differs by companies and people. Some companies list lamps as HQI but they are just standard lamps. HQI and metal halide get missed used, misunderstood and sometimes like in this case mean the same thing.

The Helios single-ended lamps are just standard probe start lamps built to North American specs (ANSI M57, ANSI M58 and ANSI M59 standards). A true European/M80/HQI standard single-ended lamp does not have a starting circuit within the lamp (a starting electrode connected to a bi-metal switch and a resistor) because the starting voltage for this standard is too high and is not needed. The Helios lamps are equipped with a starting circuit making them standard probe start metal halide lamps.
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Great post! Thank you very much.

I am right now debating between going radium 250 20K which will make it so I have to get an M80 ballast to run it to its potential.

The other option is the helio 250 20k. This will allow me to keep my M58.

My question is, will the M58 run the helio well? Would I get better color or par if I switched to an electronic? Or will the M58 give me comparable results?
 
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