hahnmeister
In Memoriam
I think you lost me there. Sorry, I must be in a post-turkey coma. I do see that I forgot to finish a sentence a while back though... I meant to say that DE are better than SE, when possible (or in the case of 400watt bulbs, HQI is better than probe start), due to longevity.
The best option for good output and life with SE bulbs is an electronic ballast like an Icecap or EVC (EVC's are my favorite). The best option for HQI/DE bulbs is a HQI ballast. Even with the sheild, this combo should outperform and outlast a SE bulb... its what they were designed for. Running a SE bulb on a regular M59 or M58 ballast (probe start magnetic) usually causes them to color-shift faster (cruddy power control), and die faster, with less intensity on the way. These ballasts are the same as those 'high-bay' bell pendants that are in warehouses and big-box retailers, buzzing away. I would never consider running an aquarium bulb on one.
I stick with M80 (250wattHQI), M81 (150wattHQI), and 400wattHQI ballasts (I forget the 400wattHQI designation) for HQI bulbs, and e-ballasts in the rare case that someone wants to use a Single ended probe start bulb, but for the most part, I try to stick with HQI bulbs. They last longer, put out more light, etc.
As far as trying to 'balance' the light by using a 10,000K and a 20,000K, or something like that... it doesnt really work that way. If you are going to blend bulbs, its better to have the blue bulb one size larger than the 10,000K so that the output of the bluer bulb can compete with the near-double output of the warmer bulb.
At that, I still think dual 250s are more than enough. Just get HQI 14,000Ks or 20,000Ks, and that will be a great looking/growing tank.
Or, I would still consider a 6x39 watt T5 setup over everything. You could run two sun bulbs, two blue+ bulbs, and two UVL super actinics, and you would have a very bright, and very pleasing color that would grow corals well... but for only 234 watts. Or, if in doubt, run 8x39watt... that would shred the output of a couple 250wattDE halides. Just shred.
The best option for good output and life with SE bulbs is an electronic ballast like an Icecap or EVC (EVC's are my favorite). The best option for HQI/DE bulbs is a HQI ballast. Even with the sheild, this combo should outperform and outlast a SE bulb... its what they were designed for. Running a SE bulb on a regular M59 or M58 ballast (probe start magnetic) usually causes them to color-shift faster (cruddy power control), and die faster, with less intensity on the way. These ballasts are the same as those 'high-bay' bell pendants that are in warehouses and big-box retailers, buzzing away. I would never consider running an aquarium bulb on one.
I stick with M80 (250wattHQI), M81 (150wattHQI), and 400wattHQI ballasts (I forget the 400wattHQI designation) for HQI bulbs, and e-ballasts in the rare case that someone wants to use a Single ended probe start bulb, but for the most part, I try to stick with HQI bulbs. They last longer, put out more light, etc.
As far as trying to 'balance' the light by using a 10,000K and a 20,000K, or something like that... it doesnt really work that way. If you are going to blend bulbs, its better to have the blue bulb one size larger than the 10,000K so that the output of the bluer bulb can compete with the near-double output of the warmer bulb.
At that, I still think dual 250s are more than enough. Just get HQI 14,000Ks or 20,000Ks, and that will be a great looking/growing tank.
Or, I would still consider a 6x39 watt T5 setup over everything. You could run two sun bulbs, two blue+ bulbs, and two UVL super actinics, and you would have a very bright, and very pleasing color that would grow corals well... but for only 234 watts. Or, if in doubt, run 8x39watt... that would shred the output of a couple 250wattDE halides. Just shred.
