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Interesting. Maybe mark those lamps and send them to Sanjay so he can measure the spectrum. That would be interesting to know.
 
All I know is that since I went to the pheonix 14,000Ks, my red flatworm population has vanished. They must prefer light from a lower spectrum or something.

Oh, and make that 2 lamps that died when I took them out of PFO fixtures...just saw a crack on the other one's base today. I could send them to Sanjay...well, one at least...the other one lost its ceramic on one side.
 
They could probably still be lite with no ceramic.

You think aquarium lamps are harsh. The lamp on the big screen TV went out today. About 300 buck with shipping for a new one.
 
With more usable PPFD on unsheilded setup, I was thinking of removing the glass lense my Reef Optix pendant. Has anyone tried running it this way? If so, will small amount of water splashes cause the bulb to break?
 
Herbert is right. DE bulbs do not have a UV shield around them so they require a glass lens to filter out the harmful uv rays. SE bulbs have a uv filtering outer envelope already built in so you don't need to run a lens with them.
 
Herbert T. Kornfeld said:

Something I found interesting...When I swapped out my 10,000K ABs recently for all pheonix 14,000Ks, I compared the 10,000Ks side by side with a new 10,000K. I found that the 10,000Ks on the HQI ballasts were very similar to an original output after a year of running, but with the icecap powered 10,000K, the bulbs were duller, and had color shifted more. I found this odd when I tested one, but after two, this cant be just a defective bulb x2. Is it possible for a 10,000K to last shorter on a icecap than a HQI? IME, it seems so.

I have a Q Sanjay. I have a problem with removing 250wattDE bulbs. I use PFO pendants, and these buggers just wont come out w/o a big fight. I was lucky this last time, as I only broke one bulb trying to remove it. Is there a trick that I should know? Figure I should ask you since you prolly have to do this more than anyone... You should see the inside reflectors on some of these pendants...all dented and bent behind the bulbs from my knuckles as I try to pry those buggers out. It seriously is one of my least favorite chores...whats the secret to getting a 250wattDE out of a PFO pendant?
Click to expand...

You want to see my collection of lamps with the ceramic ends broken off :( and my collection of broken of holders, and cuts on my hand . I find that some of the Chinese lamps are the worst. May be the ceramic is not baked well enough or not the right mix, some just crumble with a little bit of force. I have found that loosening the sockets from the housing helps a bit. Creating that little bit of play helps accomodate the variation in the lamps a little better.

I would be very interested in testing your hypothesis that the HQI actually increased lamp life (or vice versa), so send me the lamps.

sanjay.
 
I can bring them when I come to town...no problem. What else am I going to do with them anyways now..??? Do you want the ones with the broken bases too? Otherwise I have only one HQI 10,000K and one icecap 10,000K...
 
Herbert, I just saw somthing (at Home Depot I think) that you can put on the threads of a bulb to make it easier to get in and out of the socket. I was thinking about trying it.
Kind of a KY for bubs.
 
Sanjay

I have a quick question. Currently I am running XM 10K off of a Magnatec 250W ballast. I am in the process of changing tanks, so I want to change bulbs. I want a little more blue but still want a good PAR. Would the coralVue Reeflux 10K bulbs be a good choice? Or should I stay with the XM's?

Thanks
 
I have both bulbs.... the reeflux is half of what xm can give you...
I suggest that if you want more blue then add more vho's

JMHO
 
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