Lighting Website Updates

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Sanjay, Have you tested the new 250w DE 14K Iwasaki bulb or published the result yet?

Wonder if these bulbs are available on the market yet? and who's selling them?
 
Sanjay, I know you are a busy man and thank you for all the work you have done in the field of reef lighting. Will you be testing these 150w HQI lamps any time soon: Pheonix 14k, Hamilton 14k, Geissamnn 14.5k and the Reeflux 12k. Thanks, Mile.
 
Who carries these lamps ? Arrange to have the lamps sent to me and I will eventually get to them :D Most likely at MACNA I'll make my trips around the vendor's booth and see what new lamps I can have sent to me, and get the back log cleared in the meantime.

sanjay.
 
Hey hahn, i know the list is extensive, but this question was directed towards Sanjay. These lamps seem to be popular with many members on this site and was wondering if any analysis was going to be done to inform us, the hobbyist, of quality lamps. Thats all. Thanks. Mile.
 
I believe he has already done the G-man 14,500K. Its listed as the 13,000K Coral... the 13,000K may be a mistake. Its either that, or the Giesemann 13,000K Marine bulb. I think Sanjay did do the Reeflux in a recent article... just didnt put the results in the archive yet?

He needs a Hamilton14,000K DE to test as well. The only reason I butted in is because I know several pages back I asked the same thing.
 
Thats cool. Thanks for the info. How do we know which is which? Also is the 150w Pheonix similar to the 250w, not in PAR but its spectral analysis? Hahn what is your recommendation for the best 150w HQI bulb (PAR and color) run on an electronic ballast?
 
The lamps tested are the Giesman Marine, Coral and Blue. Whenthey first sent the lamps to me, they said the marine was 10000K and Coral was 13000K. Now I think they sell the Coral lamp as 14500K.

sanjay.
 
looking for the CORRECT lighting set-up for my 125 AGA. it has 2 braces on top. rigth now i'm using 3 150 hqi set-ups. what ever it is it would need to be x3. i know this isn't enough light. BTW running phonix 14k's. any help would be GREAT. it seems anything that is half tank or lower just survives but doesn't thrive. specific bulb,reflector,ballast rec. would be great for a newbie like me!:) thanks to all! john


P.s> this may have been answered. but i couldn't find it. BTW tank is about 19-20"deep not sure how tall. thanks for your patience.
 
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Id just add 2-4 rows of T5s to those existing halides, maybe swap the reflectors for lumenarc 'stealth' reflectors for better penetration. The 150wattDEs can be swapped for a high output 10,000K like the XM/XDE. Then the T5s would be a combo of 2x blue+ bulbs and 2x super actinic bulbs.

The more daylight looking halides have an output that is similar to what many bluer 250watt bulbs have, but the T5s, with all their blue and actinic, will cover up all the yellow. Corals love this combo as well because there is loads of blue and actinic, but there is also loads of daylight... a full spectrum that no halide can provide unless you run 10,000Ks.

The result? A nice 'dayblue' look, almost icey except for a hint of yellow in the output.

For your 125g tank, I would suggest the Icecap 660 ballast, then 3 of the 60" Tek2 reflectors, and 3 sets of endcaps. Then just do two ATI blue+ bulbs and one Sfiligoi Actinic (60" bulbs). The IC660 can run three 5' bulbs on its own then, which is really all you need. The alternative is running a split bank of 3' T5 bulbs (6 or 8x 39 watt bulbs), but the output isnt any greater really, and it just means you have more bulbs to replace every year or so (and 3' T5s cost within a a couple dollars of the 5' ones.
 
One thing about comparing used and unused bulbs of the same type is to keep in mind differences between lots. When GE or anyone else makes bulbs they do not make every lot of bulbs to produce identical light spectrums. When they test them they look at the relative K rating and the relative lums output. If they fall within a set +- tolerance then they are shipped.

You could possibly end up with a used bulb from one lot and a new bulb from a different lot and there difference in K rating initially being so far different that your data now would be considerably misleading.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10297290#post10297290 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Even uncalibrated you should be able to check for a spectrum shift. Don;t you have some GE 6500's? If you have a new one and some you've been using you should be able to see a difference if my source is correct. Like I said according to him at six months there is a noticable shift. If you can test used and unused lamps from the same lot it should be the best way to see if there is a noticable shift.
 
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