lights for nems
- Thread starter rale2001
- Start date
It's not necessarily about wattage, it's about PAR (the amount of light at any certain depth). Sure wattage has a correlation with PAR but there are many factors that can determine how much light you need. If you have a deep tank, (30 plus inches IMO), you're most likely going to want to run metal halides preferably 250-400 watts. This is because you can squeeze a lot of light in a small area. If you're running anything less then 20 inches you can still do metal halides (at this point 150 watts would be fine), T5s and even strong power compacts. I am assuming this is your first anemone based off the question you asked. I would forget the LTA or the Sebae and get a BTA. The BTA are the most "forgiving" anemone to start off with and they are rock dwellers so you could do power compacts with them. With a Sebae or a LTA, it would be in your best interest to start off with metal halides or T5s. It can also be a pain in some cases to get a Sebae or LTA to attach to the bottom of the sandbed. Anyone that's new to anemone would run into difficulty with this.
It's not all about lighting either, anemones in general are on the difficult side to care for. They need very good water quality conditions (those that replica their natural habitats) so do as much research as you can. The more you learn, the better chances for survival your anemone will have. Don't get impatient with this hobby because it will bite you in the behind especially with $$$. Also, make sure your tank has been setup for AT LEAST 6 months. If this is your first anemone, I would wait longer just to be safe.
Don't let your LFS employees give you the 4-6 watts per gallon rule of thumb. If they say that, disregard it! Good luck.
Toddrtrex
Premium Member
How about you state what size tank you have. Like was mentioned above, can't say that you need "X watt per gallon" -- there are way too many variables. But, if you give the tank size, can give some general guidelines.
Mavrk
New member
IME, 1 pound per gallon is normal. 30 pounds in a 35 gallon tank seems okay to me (displacement will take care of the difference).
I go for the optimum not the minimum. BTAs could work with PCs if the anemone is not at the bottom. Before T5s and Metal Halides were around what do you think people used? Normal Output light!
RBU1
Moving on Up
I have a an RBTA in my son's 12 gallon nano with PC lighting for about a year. It has split once and looks OK. It does not have as much color as the RBTA in my tank with t5's but its surviving and I can't tell you when the last time I feed it was.....HUM!!!!! about a year...but that goes for all my anemones....They get what floats around in the tank.
Mavrk
New member
Just because anemones lived in tanks before does not mean that they thrived the way they do in today's systems. Besides, wouldn't PCs be minimum? You just said you recommend optimum. In addition, I already said the BTAs could survive. The other anemones he mentioned might be harder (LTA and especially Sebae).
As for the rock, what do you consider optimum? "More" is not a very helpful answer. Also, 1 pound per gallon is not minimum, but average. In a 35 gallon tank, without a sump, more rock could lead to more dead zones and thus more problems. Not to mention the aesthetics of having more rock.
BTW, people (including me) used to use tap water, no skimmer, less pure salt, PCs etc. These tanks were far from optimum. I feel that things have evolved for the better for the animals we keep. It seems to me that your answers are more argumentative than helpful. But that might just be me being argumentative myself
Amphiprion
Premium Member
Actually, all species mentioned can even thrive under something like PC lighting. It depends upon the initial health of the individual and if all its needs are met in one way or another. Usually the only especially demanding species are H. magnifica and S. gigantea (and even the latter has been shown to do well under something other than metal halide). I kept "sebae" type anemones for many, many years under VHO lighting (anemones were at the bottom) and they rewarded (cursed?) me with semi-annual (or more) spawnings every year for over 14 years. All the needs of the animal simply have to be met for success. Bright lighting can and almost always does help, but actually isn't essential for most species. IME, feeding, proper microhabitat, water motion, and appropriate parameters are much more important.
Mavrk
New member
As I have learned to trust Amphiprion when it comes to anemones, I stand corrected. I just wonder if those less experienced would be able to supply all the needs to allow them to keep anemones without better lighting.
Amphiprion
Premium Member
Don't get me wrong, I do agree with you in that regard. It often does help the chances with people who are inexperienced, but I just wanted to show that super bright light isn't absolutely necessary in most species' care. It can be a great help when some other needs aren't entirely met, as may be the case in a new anemone keeper, or when the anemone is in poorer health.
Just because anemones lived in tanks before does not mean that they thrived the way they do in today's systems. Besides, wouldn't PCs be minimum? You just said you recommend optimum. In addition, I already said the BTAs could survive. The other anemones he mentioned might be harder (LTA and especially Sebae).
As for the rock, what do you consider optimum? "More" is not a very helpful answer. Also, 1 pound per gallon is not minimum, but average. In a 35 gallon tank, without a sump, more rock could lead to more dead zones and thus more problems. Not to mention the aesthetics of having more rock.
BTW, people (including me) used to use tap water, no skimmer, less pure salt, PCs etc. These tanks were far from optimum. I feel that things have evolved for the better for the animals we keep. It seems to me that your answers are more argumentative than helpful. But that might just be me being argumentative myself
Before there was power compacts, VHO, LED, T5s and MH people did use NO (many tubes of course) lighting. There's a few members on here (Phender) that successfully kept anemones under that type of lighting back in the day. Now don't get me wrong, I am NOT suggesting to anyone that they could get by with NO lighting especially not a new hobbyist. My point is that it can be done and has been proven in the past.
More rock means surface area which means more biological filtration. 30lbs isn't bad for a 35. I have about 35lbs in my 29. Of course some rock is lighter then others so this can be subjective. I was just giving my opinion out in regards to having more bio filtration.
I appreciate the critique attempt, but none is needed. Thanks.
Toddrtrex
Premium Member
I would have said that some rock is more/less dense, as opposed to "lighter" seems to give the wrong impression.
Plus, I think that 30 lbs is more then enough rock for a 35 -- at least numbers wise, but can't really say one way or the other until it is seen.
And "Volturi21" your last comment seemed a bit snarky to me -- might want to tone it done a bit.
Plus, I think that 30 lbs is more then enough rock for a 35 -- at least numbers wise, but can't really say one way or the other until it is seen.
And "Volturi21" your last comment seemed a bit snarky to me -- might want to tone it done a bit.
