Lightsluvr's 340G Upgrade
- Thread starter Lightsluvr
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la banque des ballasts
la banque des ballasts
I had this in my head, and now it's a tangible beast... the ballast bank.
To recap, my light rack is cantilevered almost 12" because the tank extends through a 4" wall and into the display room an additional 7". Since there is the cantilever, I had some play with placing additional weight on the rear of the rack to counterbalance the overhang. My solution was to place all (12) ballasts on shelves in a central location where they could be easily wired, maintained, and if necessary, replace.
So here is the end product - this is the back of the rack, with three "shelves" constructed of lightweight 1" aluminum angle. I will be able to screw each ballast securely in its position on the bank:
Same as above, taken from the front of the rack:
For grins, I put the ballasts on the shelves, better to envision space available for wiring:
And a close-up of three ballasts in the bank. I will use a Dymo Labelmaker to identify each ballast as to what row of (2) T5 bulbs it fires... (Row 1 = Ballast 1, etc.)
I wasn't able to check the fulcrum location on the rack with the ballasts in place, but that will change anyway when the endcaps and bulbs are installed...
I think this will work, and make wiring the system very systematic. As Melev pointed out, I will be able to test each row of lights as they are wired.
That project will start later today...
LL
la banque des ballasts
I had this in my head, and now it's a tangible beast... the ballast bank.
To recap, my light rack is cantilevered almost 12" because the tank extends through a 4" wall and into the display room an additional 7". Since there is the cantilever, I had some play with placing additional weight on the rear of the rack to counterbalance the overhang. My solution was to place all (12) ballasts on shelves in a central location where they could be easily wired, maintained, and if necessary, replace.
So here is the end product - this is the back of the rack, with three "shelves" constructed of lightweight 1" aluminum angle. I will be able to screw each ballast securely in its position on the bank:
Same as above, taken from the front of the rack:
For grins, I put the ballasts on the shelves, better to envision space available for wiring:
And a close-up of three ballasts in the bank. I will use a Dymo Labelmaker to identify each ballast as to what row of (2) T5 bulbs it fires... (Row 1 = Ballast 1, etc.)
I wasn't able to check the fulcrum location on the rack with the ballasts in place, but that will change anyway when the endcaps and bulbs are installed...
I think this will work, and make wiring the system very systematic. As Melev pointed out, I will be able to test each row of lights as they are wired.
That project will start later today...
LL
Last edited:
and hello to you, Paul.
I missed the "hello" post earlier...
a literal hello is most welcome if the thread leaves one speechless...
Of course it is rare the Reef Central dwellers are speechless on ANY subject...
LL
melev
Well-known member
Hey, call me Mikey, because I like it!
So have you tried to connect any of the wires to the end caps yet to see how they work? There is a couple of holes under each endcap to insert the wires, which you press in and tug. That's it. If it holds, you did good. If you have to remove the wire, with the bulb completely out of the way, insert a small sharp object (finishing nail would work) into the appropriate hole and pivot/lift slightly. This will lift the copper prong within, allowing you to pull the wire out of the base.
It won't hurt to carefully disassemble one endcap to understand how it works. Then snap it back together, and give it a try. You can also test wiring for continuity if there is an issue, and your son might be able to quickly help you do so if you show him the instructions first.
So have you tried to connect any of the wires to the end caps yet to see how they work? There is a couple of holes under each endcap to insert the wires, which you press in and tug. That's it. If it holds, you did good. If you have to remove the wire, with the bulb completely out of the way, insert a small sharp object (finishing nail would work) into the appropriate hole and pivot/lift slightly. This will lift the copper prong within, allowing you to pull the wire out of the base.
It won't hurt to carefully disassemble one endcap to understand how it works. Then snap it back together, and give it a try. You can also test wiring for continuity if there is an issue, and your son might be able to quickly help you do so if you show him the instructions first.
Success!
Success!
Yes, I successfully got two rows wired and tested last night before lights out...
I am taking a vacation day today to continue wiring the light rack. So far it is going smoothly.
Photos later.
LL
Success!
Yes, I successfully got two rows wired and tested last night before lights out...
I am taking a vacation day today to continue wiring the light rack. So far it is going smoothly.
Photos later.
LL
George, you exhaust me.....
I dont know of anyone that converted a room and built all of the components in such a short space of time. I cleaned the sides of my tank last night and it took me hours. I have 3 lights I need to wire and I just cant seem to get round to it.
Have fun with the rack, it looks great.
I dont know of anyone that converted a room and built all of the components in such a short space of time. I cleaned the sides of my tank last night and it took me hours. I have 3 lights I need to wire and I just cant seem to get round to it.
Have fun with the rack, it looks great.
edandsandy
Active member
George,
my goodness you are working fast.
The light rack is looking good. I really like the cantilevered rack. you have given me an idea now.!
Keep up the fast work, your tank will have water in it in no time!
my goodness you are working fast.
The light rack is looking good. I really like the cantilevered rack. you have given me an idea now.!
Keep up the fast work, your tank will have water in it in no time!
My UPS driver
My UPS driver
Seven reasons my UPS driver hates our house...
280 pounds of CaribSea SeaFlor Select sand in 40# bags.
LL
My UPS driver
Seven reasons my UPS driver hates our house...
280 pounds of CaribSea SeaFlor Select sand in 40# bags.
LL
VegasReefer
Premium Member
Re: My UPS driver
Re: My UPS driver
Wow we have the same UPS driver... Of coarse my boxes where filled with 7000 Glass Balls when they left the factory.
Re: My UPS driver
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15174956#post15174956 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lightsluvr
Seven reasons my UPS driver hates our house...
280 pounds of CaribSea SeaFlor Select sand in 40# bags.
LL
Wow we have the same UPS driver... Of coarse my boxes where filled with 7000 Glass Balls when they left the factory.
Re: Re: My UPS driver
Re: Re: My UPS driver
:rollface:
Now that's funny!!!
LL
Re: Re: My UPS driver
:rollface:
Now that's funny!!!
LL
Let there be light!
Let there be light!
Progress being made on the T5 lights, rack, ballasts, etc.
As of 11:00 a.m., I had completed and tested 4 - just eight to go... (I'm actually up to six now, just won't take any more pics until completed!)
Here's how it looked, one-third complete:
View of the wiring from the back of the frame work:
Detail of some of the bulb selection I am using - GE 6500K, UVL 75-25, ATI Aqua Blue Plus, KZ Fiji Purple...
Rinse and repeat.
Hope to be done this afternoon.
LL
Let there be light!
Progress being made on the T5 lights, rack, ballasts, etc.
As of 11:00 a.m., I had completed and tested 4 - just eight to go... (I'm actually up to six now, just won't take any more pics until completed!)
Here's how it looked, one-third complete:
View of the wiring from the back of the frame work:
Detail of some of the bulb selection I am using - GE 6500K, UVL 75-25, ATI Aqua Blue Plus, KZ Fiji Purple...
Rinse and repeat.
Hope to be done this afternoon.
LL
edandsandy
Active member
Nice job George. Your bulb selection is awsome!
Thanks. I had a lot of advice from GrimReefer over on the T5 Q&A Thread.
Here is the lineup - the final version:
Row # FRONT
1. ATI Blue Plus
2. UVL 75-25
3. ATI Blue Plus
4. GE 6500K
5. KZ Fiji Purple
6. ATI Blue Plus
6A. R2 Signature Series Moonlight
7. GE 6500K
8. ATI Blue Plus
9. UVL Actinic White
10. ATI Blue Plus
11. UVL 75-25
12. ATI Blue Plus
BACK
The lights will be wired in four groups. First will be moonlight only, followed by an hour of dawn/dusk, 2 hours of mid-morning, 4 hours of max lighting, 2 hours mid-afternoon, another hour dawn/dusk and then back to moonlight. We'll see how the coral respond to this sequence and adjust our timing accordingly.
Dawn & Dusk will light rows 1, 6 & 12
Mid-morning & Mid-Afternnon will add rows 2,3,8,10,11
Max lighting will add 4,5,7,9 to light all 12 rows.
Instead of running separate power cords to all 12 ballasts, I am running pigtails tied to the light sequence as set forth above. Each of three pigtails will junction to a 8 foot flexible cord which can move back and forth with the light rack. Same with the Moonlights, though I still havene't decided what part of the R2 System I will use. (I have it disassembled right now- I may just use the LEDs and the 12V Power supplies and scrap the reflectors.)
I will have four cords going to the controller power module to turn the lights on and off. Much neater than a rats nest of power plugs...
LL
I am on a mission... but mainly its the deadlines looming that keep me motivated.
The tank gets moved next Saturday morning. Then the plumbing will take planning and execution. I have a goal to get the rock, coral and fish moved to the new tank over the July 4th weekend. Fingers crossed.
Hope to see you next Saturday.
LL
I actually got to look at the old work schedule...2nd Lt Perry/Lifeguard Cody is free from the pool on the 20th. You just let me know when and where and I'll be there. I helped my mom move a baby grand piano the other day, why not a big *** glass box too? 
BTW, are you moving your seahorses to the monster as well, or are you setting up a smaller tank just for them?
BTW, are you moving your seahorses to the monster as well, or are you setting up a smaller tank just for them?
Seahorses...
Seahorses...
The seahorses will have their own 20 x 20 x20 Solana Cube, located next to where the 120G is situated now...It is up and running as we speak...I ordered a 1/15 hp Chiller to service their tank, but everything else needed for filtration is self-contained in the Solana. I haven't decided what light to use over their tank - I will probaby suspend a pendant or something... I plan to move the horses over to the Solana on Thursday or Friday.
I am so pleased that you will be available to help with the move. Our start time will depend on when the seller can have their glass company on site to remove the front window. We should know by Tuesday and I will spread the word.
Thanks, Cody.
LL
Seahorses...
The seahorses will have their own 20 x 20 x20 Solana Cube, located next to where the 120G is situated now...It is up and running as we speak...I ordered a 1/15 hp Chiller to service their tank, but everything else needed for filtration is self-contained in the Solana. I haven't decided what light to use over their tank - I will probaby suspend a pendant or something... I plan to move the horses over to the Solana on Thursday or Friday.
I am so pleased that you will be available to help with the move. Our start time will depend on when the seller can have their glass company on site to remove the front window. We should know by Tuesday and I will spread the word.
Thanks, Cody.
LL
Almost done...
Almost done...
The biggest pre-tank delivery project I have undertaken is the light rack... Cheesh, I hope this thing works!
Anyway, between visitors on our local club's Tank Tour yesterday, I managed to get more endcaps down and the 120V side of the wiring completed.
Nine out of twelve rows completed:
Detail of the left side (as it will be seen from the rear). The rack will be flipped over, with the lights facing the tank...doh!
Detail of the other side:
As mentioned in a previous posts, the various rows are chosen by color and intensity to be in one of three light sequences that will be turned on and off by the Apex Controller. Here are the plugs that will go to the Apex's module.
Man, thatsa lotta lights!
Bulb selection, thanks to Grim Reefer. Several of the local reefers were surprised by the selection of GE 6500K and the ATI Actinic White.
Back view of the wrining from the bulbs to the ballasts, and from the ballasts to the AC plugs. Lots of pigtails to tie the ballasts together in proper sequences:
Today, I finish the last three rows, and fire this bad boy up...I will be wearing sunglasses!
LL
Almost done...
The biggest pre-tank delivery project I have undertaken is the light rack... Cheesh, I hope this thing works!
Anyway, between visitors on our local club's Tank Tour yesterday, I managed to get more endcaps down and the 120V side of the wiring completed.
Nine out of twelve rows completed:
Detail of the left side (as it will be seen from the rear). The rack will be flipped over, with the lights facing the tank...doh!
Detail of the other side:
As mentioned in a previous posts, the various rows are chosen by color and intensity to be in one of three light sequences that will be turned on and off by the Apex Controller. Here are the plugs that will go to the Apex's module.
Man, thatsa lotta lights!
Bulb selection, thanks to Grim Reefer. Several of the local reefers were surprised by the selection of GE 6500K and the ATI Actinic White.
Back view of the wrining from the bulbs to the ballasts, and from the ballasts to the AC plugs. Lots of pigtails to tie the ballasts together in proper sequences:
Today, I finish the last three rows, and fire this bad boy up...I will be wearing sunglasses!
LL
edandsandy
Active member
Great job George.
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