Lightsluvr's 340G Upgrade

[Black Mammoth]

Re: Lighting decision

Re: Lighting decision

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15120398#post15120398 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lightsluvr
The kits should arrive next week. We'll start assembly and wiring as soon as we fabricate the light rack.

We'll start a photo log when construction starts.

LL

BTW, what are you making your light rack out of? I'll share a secret/tip I'm building mine out of PVC with stainless steel screws. That way I won't have any rusting issues with a metal rack. I thought about a wood rack but they are a bit heavier and you should keep up with them on the varnish. Also, with the PVC rack, you can run all of your wires in the tubing. I just started my rack. When I get a bit further, I'll post some pictures.

 

[Lightsluvr]

Re: Re: Ideas for a hydraulic lift?

Re: Re: Ideas for a hydraulic lift?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15132387#post15132387 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Black Mammoth
As you probably saw in my build thread, we didn't use a lift. We had plenty of people and suction cups. The height of your stand is pretty close to what mine is. I would have to measure mine....you might be 4" taller which could be a big difference.

The trick is to get one end on the stand first. That takes a huge load off the rest of the people and tank. Then move those people to the other side and have someone guide the tank. The tank slides around pretty easy on the stand decking.

If you can get a lift that would be great, but make sure you check the weight limits first A lot of them that you can rent aren't strong enough....at least the ones at the rental places by me.

Thanks for the tip. Our stand height is 40", plus the slab in the fish room is elevated 4" above the adjacent floor level. That's a vertical of 44". (Insert grunting sound here)

We should have a lot of help, including some pretty big dudes...I may skip the material lift, because the biggest one is rated at 650 pounds, and we know that the tank weighs 750. I did the math, and there's a negative in there... In addition, the lift might just get in the way of sliding the tank onto the stand...

I have enjoyed your build thread very much. Come back often.

LL

 

[Lightsluvr]

Re: Re: Lighting decision

Re: Re: Lighting decision

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15132416#post15132416 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Black Mammoth
BTW, what are you making your light rack out of? I'll share a secret/tip I'm building mine out of PVC with stainless steel screws. That way I won't have any rusting issues with a metal rack. I thought about a wood rack but they are a bit heavier and you should keep up with them on the varnish. Also, with the PVC rack, you can run all of your wires in the tubing. I just started my rack. When I get a bit further, I'll post some pictures.

Here is what the light rack is being made from...it is 1-1/4" square aluminum tubing with 1/8" walls. Stainless steel screws are a must, as are stainless corner braces, flanges and other hardware.

The rack will be suspended on chains attached to pocket door rollers on a track that allows the light rack to be rolled out of the way for maintenance, cleaning and bulb replacement.

At least that's the plan. We'll see how it's executed.

LL

 

[melev]

Re: Re: Lighting decision

Re: Re: Lighting decision

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15132416#post15132416 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Black Mammoth
BTW, what are you making your light rack out of? I'll share a secret/tip I'm building mine out of PVC with stainless steel screws. That way I won't have any rusting issues with a metal rack. I thought about a wood rack but they are a bit heavier and you should keep up with them on the varnish. Also, with the PVC rack, you can run all of your wires in the tubing. I just started my rack. When I get a bit further, I'll post some pictures.

Please link me when you get the pictures up. I'd like to see it, particularly to see if it stays straight and true, or if it bows a bit.

 

[Lightsluvr]

Re: Re: Re: Lighting decision

Re: Re: Re: Lighting decision

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15133767#post15133767 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
Please link me when you get the pictures up. I'd like to see it, particularly to see if it stays straight and true, or if it bows a bit.

Will do...

LL

 

[melev]

George, we get to see your lighting since this is your thread; my comment was to Black Mammoth. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[Lightsluvr]

No foul...

No foul...

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15133862#post15133862 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
George, we get to see your lighting since this is your thread; my comment was to Black Mammoth. Sorry for the confusion.

No problem, Marc. I am old and easily confused...that's the ticket!

Here's link to Mammoth's thread: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1546625

LL

 

[edandsandy]

George,
here is the link to where we purchased our aluminum from for our light rack:

http://www.eztube.com/aluminum_tube/aluminum_tube.html

we used Product Number: 100-304-C
Product Name: 3-Way Black Flat Connector-Composite
and
Product Name: 4-Way Flat Black Connector-Composite Product
to connect the rails together

I noticed that your tubing doesn't have the "fins" for the lights to rest on.

What lights are you using again?????

 

[Lightsluvr]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15134420#post15134420 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by edandsandy
George,
here is the link to where we purchased our aluminum from for our light rack:

http://www.eztube.com/aluminum_tube/aluminum_tube.html

we used Product Number: 100-304-C
Product Name: 3-Way Black Flat Connector-Composite
and
Product Name: 4-Way Flat Black Connector-Composite Product
to connect the rails together

I noticed that your tubing doesn't have the "fins" for the lights to rest on.

What lights are you using again?????

Using (4) 6x54W IceCap T5 SLR retro kits. The end cap stand-offs will mount directly on the aluminum cross pieces, no need for the fins in our plan.

LL

 

[edandsandy]

OK, I thought you were using a combo of T5's and MH

hope the link helps.

 

[Lightsluvr]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15135222#post15135222 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by edandsandy
OK, I thought you were using a combo of T5's and MH

hope the link helps.

Your links are great - I have used your advice to buy the white storage tanks, pocket door rails, and so much more!

Now if we can get Ed to demonstrate the secret to the water change/mixing system... hint, hint.

Good evening...

LL

 

[Lightsluvr]

Re: Re: Re: Lighting decision

Re: Re: Re: Lighting decision

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15132787#post15132787 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lightsluvr
Here is what the light rack is being made from...it is 1-1/4" square aluminum tubing with 1/8" walls. Stainless steel screws are a must, as are stainless corner braces, flanges and other hardware.

The rack will be suspended on chains attached to pocket door rollers on a track that allows the light rack to be rolled out of the way for maintenance, cleaning and bulb replacement.

At least that's the plan. We'll see how it's executed.

LL

Change in the light rack plans:
The pocket door tracks and wheels are on the way. The track is 8' in length, giving plenty of room to get things out of the way for tank or light maintenance. The wheels are rated at 150 pounds. We will suspend the rack by threaded rods instead of chains. The threaded rods will allow precise adjustment and leveling of the rack.

LL

 

[troylee]

nice build man just read the entire thread.......and moving fast i must say.

 

[Lightsluvr]

The cast is off...

The cast is off...

I gently removed the concrete forms on the raised slab for the tank and stand. All is good.

Final measurements indicate that the tank and stand will extend into the living room area by approximately 6 inches, allowing views from the side as well as the Starphire front...

This design was copied from the TOTM of pwhitby whose current build thread can be found at http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1423726

Paul's design is seen in the first post of his thread. Stunning tank.

LL

 

[Lightsluvr]

Electrical done...

Electrical done...

My son the electrician came over yesterday and finshed installing the lights, fans and GFCI receptacles.

While it doesn't look like we have a lot of receptacles in the fish room, we will be using a controller with its plug-in modules for almost all of the tank equipment. It was more important to have adequate amperage capacity than to have a wall full of plugs. We have 80A in the room; that ought to do it...

Here's a very young apprentice:

One of the two 100CFM fans that will run 24/7 above the tank...

We're wired up and ready for the tank and stand...

LL

 

[melev]

Perfect! You are definitely doing it right. :thumbsup:

 

[cody6766]

This is a damned impressive project, George! I've always liked your tanks and I know this one will be one to remember as well. I just bulldozed through the entire thread and am getting excited just reading about it. Like I mentioned earlier, work permitting, I'll be there to join the broken back club when this thing makes the journey to your place! I can't wait for the wet pics to come rolling in

 

[Lightsluvr]

Workin' on the Railroad...

Workin' on the Railroad...

We are planning a light rack for the T5s retro kits...the rack will cover the entire top of the tank. I have been studying other build threads and got this idea from edand sandy's 375G thread.

I will be building a "rail" system that will hold the light rack at an adjsutable height above the tank. When I need to work on the tank or perform maintenance on bulbs, ballasts or reflectors, the rack can simply roll back, completely clear of the tank/

Ed and Sandy suggested pocket door rails for the stationary track of their system. They were perfect for my needs. The one I chose is 8 feet long and has a weight capacity of 150 pounds, more than enough. The 8 foot length allows the light frame to be rolled completely clear of the tank.

Here is a photo of the rail material:

and the roller assembly. Note each roller has four nylon wheels on roller bearing. The wheels are connected to a sturdy steel frame which just happens to be threaded for 5/16 locking bolt.

The pocket door kit was purchased from McMaster-Carr (online): Model #1223A22 "Roller Track Set for Bypassing Door 150-lb Cap, 8' L Track, for 1-3/8"-1-3/4" Thk Doors"

Originally, I planned to use a 5/16" eyebolt to replace the locking bolt, but I received a great suggestion from fellow reefer eddybabyhd. Instead of eyebolts and chains, I purchased (4) 2-foot 5/16" threaded rods. These rods screw directly into the roller assemby, where there are further secured by two 5/16" nuts.

The rods then hang down where they will be inserted into matching holes we will drill on the light frame. Since the rods are threaded, I will be able to mount the lights exactly where I want them and they can be easily leveled.

Here is the "railroad" for our light frame:

Since our tank will protrude 6" into the living room, the light frame will cantilever 10" from the leading rods. We'll be sure to balance the frame accordingly, by ballast placement and other considerations during its construction.

More later...

Again, thanks for following our build thread.

LL

 

[Lightsluvr]

Light rack / frame build

Light rack / frame build

The photo of the 1-1/4" aluminum square tubing (above) shows the raw material.

I am no structural engineer, but tried to take into consideration the weight and angles of stress on the tubing and came up with angle braces composed of commercially available items.

HD seemed to have the best selection in this category. These photos show the TOP of the frame. The retro kit standoffs and end caps will be attached to the underside. In addition, there will be two 48" R2 Sig Series Aquarium Moonlight located amidships in the array, installed above the aluminum tubes.

The rear of the light frame is to the left in the photos.

Here is the rough layout of the frame with our feline supervisory team...

As viewed from the front of the tank, this would be the left side. I laid out dual bracing for all corners; an internal corner brace and a flat "L" brace on top to add additional twist/bend strength. The rear corner brace is 4" and the front is 3". Stainless steel self-drilling screws will be utilized.

These are the center supports for the T5 end caps (under) and the R2 Moonlight (above):

And the right side of the frame:

The size of the frame is 96" x 37" - The T5 kits and bulbs will likely weigh about 45 pounds distributed across the length of the frame. A question for the construction gurus out there: Is this enough support? Suggestions?

I am considering an additional section of tubing across the back of the frame to mount the (12) ballasts in the system. This would take some of the weight off the lower support tubes, plus concentrate the weight of the system toward the lack of the frame to offset the 10" cantilever in front. It would also make wiring changes and ballast maintenance more simple...

So what so you think?

LL

 

[melev]

Those pocket door tracks are really nice, and the roller system is superior to what I used over my tank for several years.

One thing I would do is wipe everything down with some type of teflon spray to protect it from salt / rust damage, and keep everything gliding nicely. Doing this every few months should keep it in great shape.

Your light rack layout looks good so far. I'm wondering if there is a product (like JB Weld) that you could use to bond the pieces together as well as screwing it. When I made mine, I used rivets which were super easy to install, and held up for the entire time I used it. The rivets were made of aluminum. The glue might help avoid some bowing or tweaking.

Once you affix the lights to it, you'll have a better idea of how it is flexing and if it needs more reinforcements.