I have seen numerous build threads with people using dry rock in their tank. I have always started with shipped live rock (granted most was pretty dry when I received it so I questioned its viability). I am curious to know what people with successful sps tanks began with concerning their rock. thanks!
Live rock vs. Dry rock
- Thread starter mfarris
- Start date
shih87
New member
If reefer who has confidence to keep SPS tank for over two years, I think live rock hitchhiker is a concern. For folks can't even keep SPS grow for two years, I am not sure live rock hitchhiker is his first concern.
I use dry rock to start with, but pur a few live rock on refugium section to seed bacteria but limit hitchhiker in a section. Not sure if that fit everyone, but I have my tank 26 months without hitchhiker issue. Well, I do recently encounter red turf algae issue, and most article indicate that usually come with live rock... Anyhow, hope my experience help.
I use dry rock to start with, but pur a few live rock on refugium section to seed bacteria but limit hitchhiker in a section. Not sure if that fit everyone, but I have my tank 26 months without hitchhiker issue. Well, I do recently encounter red turf algae issue, and most article indicate that usually come with live rock... Anyhow, hope my experience help.
For those of you that do start with live rock, do you have it shipped common currier or do you have it delivered air freight? Being that I live in South Alabama, most of the live rock available ships out of California and it's 5 days in transit or very expensive if shipped over night or second day. Or do you worry so much about that? I know the main focus of live rock is its biodiversity, but if it spends so much time in transit or storage, all that's left alive is some bacteria and coralline algae I would think. Also, for those that use dry rock, do you put it straight in the tank or is it better to give it an acid bath?
Sorry for all the questions :hmm4: These are things I have always wondered but never asked.
Sorry for all the questions :hmm4: These are things I have always wondered but never asked.
WatDatThing
New member
Deleted. Comment not relevant to question.
There is no pest that can survive a live rock curing process that cannot be brought in on the first frag plug that you get. Dry rock tanks still have bubble algae, apitasia, etc. If you do something like the in-water Atlantic rock, then that is different, but that stuff is so dense that I don't think that it denitrifies very well and will not use it - you could get a mantis or large worm from this rock.
While people say things like "environment" and "no pests," most end up with dry rock because it is cheaper up front, but it is no bargain in the end. None at all. Nearly all of it will release phosphates into your tank for a year or more and you will spend a fortune in purchasing GFO and applying it - some distributors will give you alternative facts that you can melt the phosphate away with acid, but you will only get the stuff on the top and the next layer will be right there to release away. It will not be all that functional in the N cycle for a lot time either. You will likely fight hair algae and cyano. In two or three years, you can have some functioning rock.
Man-made rock is not usually full of phosphate, but is solid, not porous and is not all that effective at reducing nitrate. Take into account that it is quite heavy and your money will not go as far. One of the locals said that by the time that you pay $10 a pound for real reef which is twice as heavy as good pacific rock, you are at 4x the cost. This rock will also get pests as you introduce things to your tank.
For me, there is absolutely no substitute for the porous pacific live rock. Just order it by the box from your LFS, cure it yourself and have phosphate-free rock that is ready to contribute to your good fortune from day one. Any good store should be able to get you good rock and not mark it up that much if you just grab it by the box. I got some last year - six boxes of Pukani and Tonga branch - and it was a bit under $5 a pound after I cured it with the salt cost of the curing water. In the long term, it won't be any cheaper than this.
Lastly, pre-owned rock can be the absolute worst... or best. If the hobbyist did not know what they are doing, it can be loaded with gunk, phosphate and even worse things like metals. People who know what they are doing do not usually sell rock, but it might be possible that you can find some. If you want to get some used rock, then I would prepare for the absolute worst case scenario and plan to cook it for six to nine months and use some heavy metal remover just in case - the people on this board think that you are dumb and will put it in the oven, so I am obligated to tell you that you need to search for "cooking rock" and see what the process entails, but if I don't use the word "cook" you will never be able to find the old posts.
While people say things like "environment" and "no pests," most end up with dry rock because it is cheaper up front, but it is no bargain in the end. None at all. Nearly all of it will release phosphates into your tank for a year or more and you will spend a fortune in purchasing GFO and applying it - some distributors will give you alternative facts that you can melt the phosphate away with acid, but you will only get the stuff on the top and the next layer will be right there to release away. It will not be all that functional in the N cycle for a lot time either. You will likely fight hair algae and cyano. In two or three years, you can have some functioning rock.
Man-made rock is not usually full of phosphate, but is solid, not porous and is not all that effective at reducing nitrate. Take into account that it is quite heavy and your money will not go as far. One of the locals said that by the time that you pay $10 a pound for real reef which is twice as heavy as good pacific rock, you are at 4x the cost. This rock will also get pests as you introduce things to your tank.
For me, there is absolutely no substitute for the porous pacific live rock. Just order it by the box from your LFS, cure it yourself and have phosphate-free rock that is ready to contribute to your good fortune from day one. Any good store should be able to get you good rock and not mark it up that much if you just grab it by the box. I got some last year - six boxes of Pukani and Tonga branch - and it was a bit under $5 a pound after I cured it with the salt cost of the curing water. In the long term, it won't be any cheaper than this.
Lastly, pre-owned rock can be the absolute worst... or best. If the hobbyist did not know what they are doing, it can be loaded with gunk, phosphate and even worse things like metals. People who know what they are doing do not usually sell rock, but it might be possible that you can find some. If you want to get some used rock, then I would prepare for the absolute worst case scenario and plan to cook it for six to nine months and use some heavy metal remover just in case - the people on this board think that you are dumb and will put it in the oven, so I am obligated to tell you that you need to search for "cooking rock" and see what the process entails, but if I don't use the word "cook" you will never be able to find the old posts.
One more thing. Biodiversity is not all that important. There is not much on live rock that will live long term in our tanks - coralline, bacteria and low-light filter feeding sponges that grow underneath... that is about it... and all of that will survive the curing process. The sponges that grow in our tanks will mostly be in the dark and shady areas and the stuff out in the open will die. There are some exceptions to this, but most people might consider some of that stuff pests.
The most important thing about the live rock is a nice light, porous structure to help with denitrification and to swap phosphate as you change water and grow macro (or whatever you are going to do). The inside is more important than the outside - the outside stuff will come back very soon.
The most important thing about the live rock is a nice light, porous structure to help with denitrification and to swap phosphate as you change water and grow macro (or whatever you are going to do). The inside is more important than the outside - the outside stuff will come back very soon.
