loc-line help
- Thread starter rick17
- Start date
In order to use Loc Line I believe you are going to have to reduce to 3/4 inch female threaded fitting. I think that loc line is 3/4 inch at largest, unless you buy specialty. Then you would just purchase the end fitting for the loc line, which is a threaded male fitting, and connect the two. Do use teflon tape on the threads to prevent leaks.
MJAnderson
Premium Member
Loc-line around an entire tank would be very expensive. Are you trying to make a spray bar?
Yeah. I'm trying to make the best use of the extra flow from my soon to be sump.
Long story short. I'm going to put a sump on my tank in my classroom. I want to practice on the home 20 gallon with a 5 gallon sump. I'm going to use a mag2 as a return. 3' head, will give me about 160 gph.
Was thinking of a loc-line system to divert the water in different directions. Was also (after pricing) thinking of making one out of PVC instead.
Long story short. I'm going to put a sump on my tank in my classroom. I want to practice on the home 20 gallon with a 5 gallon sump. I'm going to use a mag2 as a return. 3' head, will give me about 160 gph.
Was thinking of a loc-line system to divert the water in different directions. Was also (after pricing) thinking of making one out of PVC instead.
WOW, that website is cool. And they are cheaper than aquarium online stores. But to plumb two tanks (20 and 55) I would spend about $200. If I can design a descent flare nozzle out of PVC, I can do it MUCH cheaper. with PVC do I need to suport it while it's going around the paremeter of the tank?
MJAnderson
Premium Member
Couple of comments...
That's a lot of flow going through a sump for such a small tank. You might have issues with bubbles. 3-5x tank size is normal. You'll have 8.
Have you thought of a HOB closed loop? Check out http://www.melevsreef.com/closedloop.html for one.
Another thing I have seen is people running PVC along the entire top of their tank and using pvc T's to attach loc-line so they can direct the flow. But it's bulky so is usually hidden by a canopy.
That's a lot of flow going through a sump for such a small tank. You might have issues with bubbles. 3-5x tank size is normal. You'll have 8.
Have you thought of a HOB closed loop? Check out http://www.melevsreef.com/closedloop.html for one.
Another thing I have seen is people running PVC along the entire top of their tank and using pvc T's to attach loc-line so they can direct the flow. But it's bulky so is usually hidden by a canopy.
chem_fun, I used the 1/4" treaded and sockets with a nozel on my project. I needed like 50 nozels and threaded sockets, and a drill bit and tap, (for standard 1/4 14?) and the pvc, ran like 70$ I bought the contractor packs... the 50 packs... the price each falls slightly.
You konw that's not a bad idea... closed loop. do you own the tanks... or are you going looking for them... if you could... go acrylic, and plumb your closed loop, or glass, like me. I turned a 75 into swiss cheese for a 35$ bit, a bulkhead at my local farm supply co. and 35$ in glass for the overflow. If the 55 is already drilled, you can garuntee that it's plate, not tempered - safe to drill (only the panels with holes... my experience is that most 55's are tempered---do not drill - still finding glass in my basement.)
J
You konw that's not a bad idea... closed loop. do you own the tanks... or are you going looking for them... if you could... go acrylic, and plumb your closed loop, or glass, like me. I turned a 75 into swiss cheese for a 35$ bit, a bulkhead at my local farm supply co. and 35$ in glass for the overflow. If the 55 is already drilled, you can garuntee that it's plate, not tempered - safe to drill (only the panels with holes... my experience is that most 55's are tempered---do not drill - still finding glass in my basement.)
J
jmkarcz,
which nozzels did you get? Did you get the loc-line nozzels? Or did you make something with PVC?
Both tanks are acrylic, and I'm going to drill Friday (when my 1" Bulkheads get here). I want to drill as it's going to be "safer" than an overflow box. Infact, I'm probably going to get a few more fittings and drill two drain pipes for fun.
I am planning on running 3/4" and making some sort of nozzel. (Heading back to Home Depot right now infact)
I'm not going to really have a true closed loop, as I'm going to be running from the overflop pipe to the sump and from the sump to the tank. But it's close.
which nozzels did you get? Did you get the loc-line nozzels? Or did you make something with PVC?
Both tanks are acrylic, and I'm going to drill Friday (when my 1" Bulkheads get here). I want to drill as it's going to be "safer" than an overflow box. Infact, I'm probably going to get a few more fittings and drill two drain pipes for fun.
I am planning on running 3/4" and making some sort of nozzel. (Heading back to Home Depot right now infact)
I'm not going to really have a true closed loop, as I'm going to be running from the overflop pipe to the sump and from the sump to the tank. But it's close.
I used the lock line nozels... I also drilled out my returns, as I have a problen with anything that goes over the side of my tank. With the money I saved, I bought a SQWD, and plumbed 2 "water canons" in the quarter panels of the back, now the water shoots right then left. I love the way the corals sway. It looks even more impressive at night under the diy moon lights I added.
check out these:
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c205/jmkarcz/ledarray75gallon29led0035.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
I put 29 of these bad boys over my 75 gallon reef. Blue leds, but there is no reason you couldn't run water thru them, around the rim.
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c205/jmkarcz/DCP_7880.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
Algae problem being fixed. Those white "canons" are held to the bulkhead with a 3/4" threaded to socket fitting, then a double female, then a socket to threaded fitting - making them moveable and poiseable in any fashion. On my most recent revision, I placed additional fittings in the wall.
Jason
check out these:
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c205/jmkarcz/ledarray75gallon29led0035.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
I put 29 of these bad boys over my 75 gallon reef. Blue leds, but there is no reason you couldn't run water thru them, around the rim.
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c205/jmkarcz/DCP_7880.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
Algae problem being fixed. Those white "canons" are held to the bulkhead with a 3/4" threaded to socket fitting, then a double female, then a socket to threaded fitting - making them moveable and poiseable in any fashion. On my most recent revision, I placed additional fittings in the wall.
Jason
OK, here's what I have so far.
I got some 3/4" PVC and an adapter for the 1" bulkhead. (Why the 1" bulkhead you ask, cause I got them cheap on e-bay. 10/$30 shipped)
The first shot is a front shot, kinda a bad pic. But you can see one of the overflows I'm going to use. Not sure if the paint will bite me. Didn't see Krylon at HD, so I got rustoleum for plastic. Figured it wouldn't rub off as easy.
The second is a top down view. (Nice feet?)
The third is a possible surface skimming remora mod, rather than purchase the box.
I got some 3/4" PVC and an adapter for the 1" bulkhead. (Why the 1" bulkhead you ask, cause I got them cheap on e-bay. 10/$30 shipped)
The first shot is a front shot, kinda a bad pic. But you can see one of the overflows I'm going to use. Not sure if the paint will bite me. Didn't see Krylon at HD, so I got rustoleum for plastic. Figured it wouldn't rub off as easy.
The second is a top down view. (Nice feet?)
The third is a possible surface skimming remora mod, rather than purchase the box.
Pretty good, I like what you've done... but if it were me... I would get about 10-20 of those nozels and threaded socket fittings you see in my top pic. I would take out the T's you have... and I would place the nozels like this...
undo these...
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c205/jmkarcz/193673618_7517390f54_A.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
and put the nozels like this... then you can direct the flows....
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c205/jmkarcz/193673618_7517390f54_C-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
Also, if it were me... I would get a 5" buff wheel at Home Depot, and a bottle of the #2 Novus scratch removal cream. I would dump out the sand, hose out every last grain... and spend an hour and make that tank look like new. I get my Novus locally for about 6$ and the wheel on the drill (about 700 rpm) for another 6.
If it were mine. I'd cut the ring in the center in front, and cap both sides... then attach it to a SCWD behind the tank, not forgetting the check valve though, to stop water from draining backward from the tank in a power outage.
undo these...
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c205/jmkarcz/193673618_7517390f54_A.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
and put the nozels like this... then you can direct the flows....
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c205/jmkarcz/193673618_7517390f54_C-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
Also, if it were me... I would get a 5" buff wheel at Home Depot, and a bottle of the #2 Novus scratch removal cream. I would dump out the sand, hose out every last grain... and spend an hour and make that tank look like new. I get my Novus locally for about 6$ and the wheel on the drill (about 700 rpm) for another 6.
If it were mine. I'd cut the ring in the center in front, and cap both sides... then attach it to a SCWD behind the tank, not forgetting the check valve though, to stop water from draining backward from the tank in a power outage.
I have a acrylic repair kit. It states not so go in circles. Is it wise to use a wheel?
I'm concerned about a scwd for two reasons. The tank is small and I don't know if I want to drill on the angled sides. I'm also not keen on having a hose clamp on the aquarium. The reason for drilling to to have everything glued. I know that PVC gets brittle over the course of a decade, but with the right amount of torque and pressure a hose clamp can fail. I did think about alternating flow. If I end up doing this I'll probably end up getting a second mag2 and run them off a timmer. HOWEVER, if I remember my forums correctly, the MJ's are the only ones that handle on and off electricity. How does the Mag2 do on a timmer.
What about taking the T and melting it a bit? Rather than getting the jet?
I'm concerned about a scwd for two reasons. The tank is small and I don't know if I want to drill on the angled sides. I'm also not keen on having a hose clamp on the aquarium. The reason for drilling to to have everything glued. I know that PVC gets brittle over the course of a decade, but with the right amount of torque and pressure a hose clamp can fail. I did think about alternating flow. If I end up doing this I'll probably end up getting a second mag2 and run them off a timmer. HOWEVER, if I remember my forums correctly, the MJ's are the only ones that handle on and off electricity. How does the Mag2 do on a timmer.
What about taking the T and melting it a bit? Rather than getting the jet?
No, you'll waste your time. trust me. I have a 300 gal acrylic, and if I was to have to use that scratch repair kit, i'd have goten rid of it. It works. just keep moving.
I ran hard pipe all the way to the SCWD then switched to barbs and yes a couple hose clamps, I also spent a few extra $ and put in shutoffs.
I've never had a clamp fail, course, I use milk hose from a farm supply store.
I don't have and MJ's I chose a different loyalty. I like Mags. Just bought another Mag2 yesterday to run my Ca Reactor DIY.
I don't think you can melt a t enough to turn it into a jet, thats why I used the loc-line nozels.
I like your tank, but the more I think about it, a plumbed line around the top is going to be a hassel. A hassel to clean, work around, to service... What about 2 fat water jets in each side, pointed in to the center crisscrossing. Like a tidal pool that is being sloshed from different directions...with a mag 4...And the hose clamp is mot technically one the tank, the barb is screwed onto the bulkhead, and the squid to the barb.
This is the tank I'm setting up for proping.
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c205/jmkarcz/IMG_1938.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
it will be very simular to the tank upstairs... this is more current... like 10 minutes ago.
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c205/jmkarcz/IMG_1933a.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
Will post more in a few minutes... need to reboot for software install.
Jason
I ran hard pipe all the way to the SCWD then switched to barbs and yes a couple hose clamps, I also spent a few extra $ and put in shutoffs.
I've never had a clamp fail, course, I use milk hose from a farm supply store.
I don't have and MJ's I chose a different loyalty. I like Mags. Just bought another Mag2 yesterday to run my Ca Reactor DIY.
I don't think you can melt a t enough to turn it into a jet, thats why I used the loc-line nozels.
I like your tank, but the more I think about it, a plumbed line around the top is going to be a hassel. A hassel to clean, work around, to service... What about 2 fat water jets in each side, pointed in to the center crisscrossing. Like a tidal pool that is being sloshed from different directions...with a mag 4...And the hose clamp is mot technically one the tank, the barb is screwed onto the bulkhead, and the squid to the barb.
This is the tank I'm setting up for proping.
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c205/jmkarcz/IMG_1938.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
it will be very simular to the tank upstairs... this is more current... like 10 minutes ago.
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c205/jmkarcz/IMG_1933a.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
Will post more in a few minutes... need to reboot for software install.
Jason
Like this:
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c205/jmkarcz/193673618_7517390f54_m.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
you could still use the 2 bulkheads in the rear panel, aim them upward, they would alternate, and the water affects would be awesome, giving you a tidal pool affect. I get alternating ripples of light on the bottom of my tank...
get rid of the rest of that pvc in front, it's just going to get in the way anyway... and if you want, I'll pm you how to build those water jets to make the discharge fatter... more bang for the buck.
J
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c205/jmkarcz/193673618_7517390f54_m.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
you could still use the 2 bulkheads in the rear panel, aim them upward, they would alternate, and the water affects would be awesome, giving you a tidal pool affect. I get alternating ripples of light on the bottom of my tank...
get rid of the rest of that pvc in front, it's just going to get in the way anyway... and if you want, I'll pm you how to build those water jets to make the discharge fatter... more bang for the buck.
J
Slight problem. I hooked up the mag2 (got all the parts UPS today). While it does a great job pumping the water and the single overflow I currently have drilled works great, the flow is not that strong. now, that's probably a good thing. I've been told that you want about 3 - 4 tank volumes through the sump. The 5 gallon acrylic that I have under the stand stays about half full. This gives me just enough extra for when the power will go off. However, there isn't a lot of power for the jets. I currently have a T comming off the return with two 8 inch spray bars. Not a lot, but we'll see once the water clears how much pressure it really has. I have since installed my two modified MJ1200's Now that's a lot of flow in that little tank. Probably a bit to much, and I'll have to take one out.
-Scott
-Scott
