jedimasterben
LED world domination!
Looks sah-weet! Glad that it worked out for you using four of the M, I don't think that you would have gotten nearly the same effect from the LEDs you were originally planning on using. 
Looking for 10W LED Help.
- Thread starter Poseidon
- Start date
Very nice!, If you still have too much glare off the LEDs after adding the reflector when sitting in your chair, sometimes adding a small pvc pipe section that is a bit longer than the reflector will reduce or eliminate that issue. Since the LEDs already have lenses focusing most of the light down ward you don't lose much doing this and it's just a matter of determining how long of a "glare shield" is needed. Other methods work also like adding a piece of aluminum the lenght of the fixture making a "skirt" for it, just depends on what works for you.
Post a pick of how you have the sinks and fans integrated with your halide if you don't mind. I can't make it out in the images with all the Blueness! My computer monitor is crap, are they mounted inside or outside the halide?
Good work!
Post a pick of how you have the sinks and fans integrated with your halide if you don't mind. I can't make it out in the images with all the Blueness! My computer monitor is crap, are they mounted inside or outside the halide?
Good work!
Thank you! I had my kids over for dinner tonight, so I spent the time with them, no pics of the CLG or the LDD's yet, but I should be able to get that all cleaned up tomorrow night, and post a pic or 3.
Looks sah-weet! Glad that it worked out for you using four of the M, I don't think that you would have gotten nearly the same effect from the LEDs you were originally planning on using.
Well, I am really REALLY pleased with the M, this Radium combo may be my favorite light so far, and I have been in the hobby for 30 years. Everything from 6.5K Iwasaki and VHO, to 10K and VHO, to T5, and then full blown LED, and now back to Halide + LED, I think this is it. The shimmer/glimmer lines, and the eye pleasing color is really quite nice.
Thanks! I added the reflectors and the glare is gone, no issue. I had thought about the skirt, but I really don't think I will need it.
The LED's are mounted on the outside of the halide. I measured out the height of the heat sink tube, plus reflector, and mounted the strips to the halide sides where the bottom of the LED reflector is flush with the bottom of the halide splash shield.
I am cheating a bit on the fans, I added a fan to the top of the halide, it pulls air in from the PFO vents and exhausts it from the top. By mounting the Aluminum to the sides of the halide, I am taking advantage of that active cooling of the halide casing, by making the whole fixture one mass. I am hoping that, plus the convection cooling I can feel coming out of the vertical air outlet will be enough to keep the LED's cool. So far, I am only running the LED's when I am home, and I am keeping a "feel" on the 1.25" tubing, even right next to the emitter, on the bottom of the tube, the temp is "warm", I could keep my finger there indefinitely and not burn myself.
The final step will be to turn the whole fixture 90 degrees, so that halide is perpendicular to the front and back panels of the tank. That will give me better coverage on both the halide, and the LED's.
What is considered optimal temp for these? I am guessing the cooler the better, right?
Cooler the better, best would be in the freezer, :lolspin:
But seriously if you can keep your finger on the edge of the copper pcb at the heatsink for any lenght of time after the LEDs have been running for a few hours you are good to go. they can handle temps that would burn you.
You may want to add some sort of splash gaurd over the LEDs to protect the chips and solder points from any splashing that may occur, that high your probably fine without but it never hurts.
But seriously if you can keep your finger on the edge of the copper pcb at the heatsink for any lenght of time after the LEDs have been running for a few hours you are good to go. they can handle temps that would burn you.
You may want to add some sort of splash gaurd over the LEDs to protect the chips and solder points from any splashing that may occur, that high your probably fine without but it never hurts.
more to the point though optimum would be 25 C at the LED juction, i.e. room temp which is not possible in the real world (thus the freezer joke)
normal real world operating temps are considered anything under 85 C junction temp which would be darn hot on the heatsink, likely in the 55 to 60 C range and you'd feel that heat for sure using the finger test. they are rated to handle 135 C max but the lower the temp the longer and more efficiently they run.
normal real world operating temps are considered anything under 85 C junction temp which would be darn hot on the heatsink, likely in the 55 to 60 C range and you'd feel that heat for sure using the finger test. they are rated to handle 135 C max but the lower the temp the longer and more efficiently they run.
That's great news, I am well below that. The LED's have been on for about 4 hours now, so I would think they are as hot as they are going to get.
I held my finger as close the copper as I could get it, and it is hot, but I was able to keep my finger there for better than 10 seconds, without pain.
I held my finger as close the copper as I could get it, and it is hot, but I was able to keep my finger there for better than 10 seconds, without pain.
Well here it is all finished up, and hung. 
This is from the rear right corner of the tank, so you can see the wiring.
From the front of the tank pointing up.
From the front of the tank, back about 6 feet. I have fixed the lean to the left already.
This is the last area that needs clean up. I know there are bare wires here, I am trying to decide what to use for a PWM dimmer, potentially it could be something really simple like the AC-RC dial that I mentioned earlier, or it could be a full blown LED controller like the Storm by Coralux. I am also considering the 0-10v adapter for my reef keeper, with an adapter made by O2Surplus, but that is actually the most expensive option, and it gives me only 2 channels of control, where the Storm gives 6. With the power supply I have, I can add several more LED's to the mix very easy, maybe some near UV LED's would be a good option, I have room for 4 more.
This is from the rear right corner of the tank, so you can see the wiring.
From the front of the tank pointing up.
From the front of the tank, back about 6 feet. I have fixed the lean to the left already.
This is the last area that needs clean up. I know there are bare wires here, I am trying to decide what to use for a PWM dimmer, potentially it could be something really simple like the AC-RC dial that I mentioned earlier, or it could be a full blown LED controller like the Storm by Coralux. I am also considering the 0-10v adapter for my reef keeper, with an adapter made by O2Surplus, but that is actually the most expensive option, and it gives me only 2 channels of control, where the Storm gives 6. With the power supply I have, I can add several more LED's to the mix very easy, maybe some near UV LED's would be a good option, I have room for 4 more.
Stlouphil
Member
I am TOTALLY intrigued by this build. I just left LED's and went back to MH, but miss the "œpop" of the royal blue LED's. I have a 90 gal with 2 "“ Lumenarc reflectors running 2 "“ 250w Radiums.
Here is what I'm thinking of doing because I'm so short on space. Running 6 "“ 12w royal blues with 3 on each side of the center brace of my tank facing the rock. Here is where my DIY shortcomings come through. LOL
I need a part list. What do I need to put together a strip of 6 "“ 12w leds across the front of my tank? Will 90 degree optics work?
Here is what I'm thinking of doing because I'm so short on space. Running 6 "“ 12w royal blues with 3 on each side of the center brace of my tank facing the rock. Here is where my DIY shortcomings come through. LOL
I need a part list. What do I need to put together a strip of 6 "“ 12w leds across the front of my tank? Will 90 degree optics work?
For the power supply, I don't know. 
I would go with 3 LDD1000's, a 3 up board from Coralux, and of course the 6 LED's from Steves. I also bought my reflectors from Steves.
The Heatsink is really up to you, I like the concept of the tube, so you can get that from Steve as well.
I have 2 LED's on each of my LDD's, which made it easy.
I would go with 3 LDD1000's, a 3 up board from Coralux, and of course the 6 LED's from Steves. I also bought my reflectors from Steves.
The Heatsink is really up to you, I like the concept of the tube, so you can get that from Steve as well.
I have 2 LED's on each of my LDD's, which made it easy.
Stlouphil
Member
Looking for 10W LED Help.
The black box in your photo contains your LDD and board? If so where did you get the project box for those components?
What did you use for power supply? I'm sure I could not use it because of the extra LEDs,
Do you regret posting your photos on my thread yet? LOL
The black box in your photo contains your LDD and board? If so where did you get the project box for those components?
What did you use for power supply? I'm sure I could not use it because of the extra LEDs,
Do you regret posting your photos on my thread yet? LOL
LOL I don't regret it at all.
I used the CLG 150 36A, I found it on another thread here in the DIY secition, it was on e-bay for $12.95 shipped.
Yes, I did put the LDD's in the black box, I bought that at Radio Shack too. I had to use my dremel on the edge of the lid to make it work though. A slightly larger box would have been a better idea.
I used the CLG 150 36A, I found it on another thread here in the DIY secition, it was on e-bay for $12.95 shipped.
Yes, I did put the LDD's in the black box, I bought that at Radio Shack too. I had to use my dremel on the edge of the lid to make it work though. A slightly larger box would have been a better idea.
Stlouphil
Member
It's coming together. As far as the reflectors go were they necessary to prevent light bleeding into the room? If I were directing the leds towards the back of the tank would they be needed in your opinion. One last question for now, LOL, where did you get your wire?
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Power supply:
Many possibilities there.
With 6 Luxeon Ms you would only need two LDD-1000H if you used a 36 volt power supply capable of over 2 amps like the CLG driver Poseidon Used. Someone mentioned they were back on ebay a day or two ago, good solid power supply and at that price a steal.
Using the meanwell CLG-150-36A you will run 3 Luxeon Ms in series per LDD driver powered by the CLG 150 36A. You will likely need to adjust the "Vo Adj." potentiometer slightly to increase maximum voltage to a couple volts above 36 volts. (by removing the rubber plug and turning the pot clockwise with a small screwdriver, don't force it if it doesn't turn easily it's already maxed out and your good to go.)
Many possibilities there.
With 6 Luxeon Ms you would only need two LDD-1000H if you used a 36 volt power supply capable of over 2 amps like the CLG driver Poseidon Used. Someone mentioned they were back on ebay a day or two ago, good solid power supply and at that price a steal.
Using the meanwell CLG-150-36A you will run 3 Luxeon Ms in series per LDD driver powered by the CLG 150 36A. You will likely need to adjust the "Vo Adj." potentiometer slightly to increase maximum voltage to a couple volts above 36 volts. (by removing the rubber plug and turning the pot clockwise with a small screwdriver, don't force it if it doesn't turn easily it's already maxed out and your good to go.)
Standard DIY Disclaimer:
Only you are responsible for self electrocution and electrocution of others, don't say we didn't warn you. :lolspin:
Just be very, very, carefull on the AC power cord side of your PSU and if needed get some one to help you wire up the wall plug for the PSU you choose to make sure it's done safely, it will be around water after all. The DC output side is pretty harmless as long as it stays under 50V DC. You might get a nice zap though. AC side and higher voltage is where it get's dangerous if you are not careful on that end.
Stlouphil
Member
Thanks. Just picked up a CLG this morning for $20 from someone here on RC. I appreciate your help. Steve's is currently out of stock on the LDD-1000 do you know of another good source?
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