Looking for 10W LED Help.
- Thread starter Poseidon
- Start date
Stlouphil
Member
http://www.powergatellc.com/
Usually the cheapest. But sometimes the shipping is high.
Coralux also stocks them, or just do a google search, they are getting pretty easy to find now.
One of these can work if you're not using a board with the pull down resistor (most of these pass imput voltage thru and switch the Vout - on and off, so with the LDD you don't use the Vout + connection.)http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brightness-...ing_Parts_and_Accessories&hash=item4d14ef50af
Another option is just a basic arduino and a potentiometer (which would work with the pull down resistor boards), there is a very simple manual dimming code using the pot to control light level floating around on the big LDD thread. posted by aside61 as I recal.
O2Surplus also I beleive created a converter board that converts 0-10volt signals into pwm for the LDD, it also had a version equiped with pots for manual dimming. He might have a few left.
LDD thread:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=22784823#post22784823
Stlouphil
Member
How is this for the LDD board? I can get the 1000's and the board from the same place. http://www.clay-boa.com/coralux-5up-ldd-driver-board/ What the heck?
jedimasterben
LED world domination!
No, its the forum's auto filter to replace "LEDgroup buy".
jedimasterben
LED world domination!
Yep, dunno why, but RC and LGB don't get along.
Hmm.... well while I am here, Thanks Again for the suggestion on the LED's. I really like the color, and I am hoping to have my hands on PAR meter early this week.
I've been looking at the "Typhon" as a control option, 4 channels, PWM dimming. I think it will be plenty for what I want, and it is about $25 bucks less than the Storm. Any input on that one?
I've been looking at the "Typhon" as a control option, 4 channels, PWM dimming. I think it will be plenty for what I want, and it is about $25 bucks less than the Storm. Any input on that one?
jedimasterben
LED world domination!
To be honest, the Storm is pretty advanced compared to the Typhon, though with meep's (well, I think his name is asid something on here) Typhon code it at least gives 8-bit PWM resolution (by default it only has 100 dimming steps, which is terrible and you can definitely notice each step when it changes) and he's working on getting some more functionality out of it.
Have to bring this one back to the top for a moment, I got the PAR meter from my club. The PAR on these 4 LEDs is ridiculous!
These 4 LED's effectively DOUBLE the PAR in my tank, at just about any point. I'm going to have an extra pair of hands come over this weekend so that I can take pictures, and make a chart easily.
The halide (20K Radium)is only a couple months old, in an older PFO pendant, on a galaxy HQI e-ballast.
The tank has been a combo LED Halide for about 10 days now, and all I have seen is a positive response in growth and color.
These 4 LED's effectively DOUBLE the PAR in my tank, at just about any point. I'm going to have an extra pair of hands come over this weekend so that I can take pictures, and make a chart easily.
The halide (20K Radium)is only a couple months old, in an older PFO pendant, on a galaxy HQI e-ballast.
The tank has been a combo LED Halide for about 10 days now, and all I have seen is a positive response in growth and color.
It is impressive alright, I measured one I'm using as a plant spot light on a tree in my living room to have ~160 PAR at 18" in air directly below the LED. Only about a 12" spread though in the 100+ PAR range though from on emiter and the 60 degree reflector, on a tank though, Woo!
...and that is direct reading before correcting for low blue wavelenth on the apogee meter.
...and that is direct reading before correcting for low blue wavelenth on the apogee meter.
Stlouphil
Member
Have to bring this one back to the top for a moment, I got the PAR meter from my club. The PAR on these 4 LEDs is ridiculous!
These 4 LED's effectively DOUBLE the PAR in my tank, at just about any point. I'm going to have an extra pair of hands come over this weekend so that I can take pictures, and make a chart easily.
The halide (20K Radium)is only a couple months old, in an older PFO pendant, on a galaxy HQI e-ballast.
The tank has been a combo LED Halide for about 10 days now, and all I have seen is a positive response in growth and color.
Pretty awesome. I'm running the 250 Radiums on an electronic ballast. Supposedly the par is reduced by 15-20% not using the HQI ballasts. The extra Par from the RB leds will be quite welcome.
You are not using a dimmer right now correct? So you are running them at 100% for only 4-6 hours
My parts started showing up today. I received the LDD-1000's (I got 3 to run 6 leds, probably overkill, but the OCD would not let me place 3 leds on 1 LDD-1000. LOL) and the board I got is a 5UP because it was cheap and that's what L*DGR**pB**.com had in stock. : ) The questions on how put this stuff together will be starting soon. :eek1:
I would still suggest using only 2 of the LDDs if you have at least a 36v PSU. The LDDs will run more efficiently than if you only run 2 LEDs on each one, You can use the spair to power some Violets or other LEDs (or just have a back up)......
Stlouphil
Member
I will defer to one who knows far more about this than I do. I was wanting to add some violets anyways. They say that Radiums provide all the actinic you need, but a little more can't hurt.
I'm putting a bar across the front of the tank with 6 - 12w RB. How many violets would I have to add to be effective? I'm assuming 3w LEDs. Not sure how much room I'll have.
I did not realize L*DGR**pB**.com is here in St. Louis. I placed the order yesterday and received it today.:bounce1:
I will defer to one who knows far more about this than I do. I was wanting to add some violets anyways. They say that Radiums provide all the actinic you need, but a little more can't hurt.
I'm putting a bar across the front of the tank with 6 - 12w RB. How many violets would I have to add to be effective? I'm assuming 3w LEDs. Not sure how much room I'll have.
I did not realize L*DGR**pB**.com is here in St. Louis. I placed the order yesterday and received it today.:bounce1:
Interesting, I thought they were in California?
Edit, just looked at thier site and it seems they moved to STL according to the shipping time charts.....
May have to pay them a visit, LOL!
On the violets pay attention to the max drive current if using the LDD 1000 to power them. worst case just wire a couple strings in parallel, no big deal if they are not perfectly balanced in this case, just equal number of violets on each string will get around 500mA plus or minus 100ma or so off the LDD 1000.
Any amount of violet will be beneficial to coral flourecence and growth, but to have a noticeable visual effect you need quite a few, and you could run quite a few off the LDD 1000 especially if two strings in parallel. Typically violets are figured to run around 3.4 volts so just do the math and add as many as you can afford/accommodate with your setup.
You could use the larger violet chips like ReefLedLab has to save on soldering or just use single star chips, that is up to you.
@Stlouphil
what are you using for heatsink and how long? with 6 Luxeon Ms on it you might not have enough cooling to add any violets to the same heatsink as generally they do not handle heat as well. Not to mention without active cooling 6 of the M's will produce quite a bit of heat and need a good amount of heatsink if using passive cooling only.
what are you using for heatsink and how long? with 6 Luxeon Ms on it you might not have enough cooling to add any violets to the same heatsink as generally they do not handle heat as well. Not to mention without active cooling 6 of the M's will produce quite a bit of heat and need a good amount of heatsink if using passive cooling only.
I thought so, I am going to zip tie the PAR meter to a clear stick and get some good readings without my arm in the way.
YEs, I am running them at 100% for 5 hours right now. I am really glad that I started at 2-3 hours for a few days though. I am going to add hours for sure, as it is only a good thing. Initial readings put my PAR at 300-350 midway down the tank with both the halide and LEDs on. In some areas where there is not any rock in the way, I am seeing 200+ PAR on the sandbed.
Maybe I'll add an hour starting Sunday.
Stlouphil
Member
I thought so, I am going to zip tie the PAR meter to a clear stick and get some good readings without my arm in the way.
YEs, I am running them at 100% for 5 hours right now. I am really glad that I started at 2-3 hours for a few days though. I am going to add hours for sure, as it is only a good thing. Initial readings put my PAR at 300-350 midway down the tank with both the halide and LEDs on. In some areas where there is not any rock in the way, I am seeing 200+ PAR on the sandbed.
Maybe I'll add an hour starting Sunday.
Wow that IS impressive. I hope you have a frag tank setup. Those SPS are going to be growing out the top of your tank. Lol!
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