Looking for 10W LED Help.
- Thread starter Poseidon
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Stlouphil
Member
I don't see a problem especially with the PAR you are getting from the LEDs. Almost makes me wonder if adding some cool whites just for viewing when the halides are off to lighten the RB. Man, here I go. I get rid of the LEDs and go to MH because I don't like the look of full spectrum LEDs and now I'm thinking of adding more LEDs.:headwally:
jedimasterben
LED world domination!
The way I see it, hybrid setups are the best, but realistically geared more towards LED/T5 hybrids (not LED/MH, MH/LED, or T5/LED) as you get the supreme power and efficiency of the LED with the distributed light of the T5. LEDs are more than capable of keeping coral colorful, but typically lose to distributed light for growth where tight optics are used (which is where most people go wrong).
Stlouphil
Member
The way I see it, hybrid setups are the best, but realistically geared more towards LED/T5 hybrids (not LED/MH, MH/LED, or T5/LED) as you get the supreme power and efficiency of the LED with the distributed light of the T5. LEDs are more than capable of keeping coral colorful, but typically lose to distributed light for growth where tight optics are used (which is where most people go wrong).
Well, I am reluctant to say anything lest what has been an awesome thread, I do not want it to turn into a LED verses MH debate, but I am in the school that Radiums are the ultimate MH bulb from a spectrum standpoint. I left LEDs because from a purely aesthetic standpoint I did not care for them. Running full spectrum for viewing just seemed to wash things out. However, I did miss the "pop" from the royal blues. I tried Blue Plus T5's to supplement the Radiums which helped, but still the "pop" was missing.
So, me adding Royal Blue LEDs is PURELY to add to my viewing pleasure. The extra PAR is an added plus.
For those who love T5 and want to supplement with LED's, well, awesome. I guess I one of the few people who think T5's look totally artificial. I think the LED's help that adding glitter to the tank. Me personally I love the fact my tank looks the way ocean looks when I go snorkeling. :spin1:
jedimasterben
LED world domination!
I agree with you on several points. solely-fluorescent lit reefs are just flat looking. Yes, corals look good under them, but the light's gotta look good for viewing, as well.
LED arrays just need balance, which most arrays and fixtures, along with lack of control. It also helps to figure out what colors you want to accentuate - fluorescent (so pump most power in 400-500nm), or non-fluorescent (pump a lot of 400-500 but also with good bits of 500-700nm). You can really only make one look 'the best' while the other doesn't look as great. Best bet is to find the balance between the two.
Point source lighting is a lot more dramatic, as a pro photographer, I can tell you that without question. 
I think I have found my favorite combo, regardless of the added watts of the halide, I really like this look.
My corals also really like this lighting, as I have seen significant increase in growth from everything in my tank since the change to halide.
I think I have found my favorite combo, regardless of the added watts of the halide, I really like this look.
My corals also really like this lighting, as I have seen significant increase in growth from everything in my tank since the change to halide.
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Stlouphil
Member
Ok, guys it has begun. I got the power supply (CLG 150 36A) and the 5UP board. The PS has 3 leads coming off the DC side. Green, brown and blue. Question is where those attach to the board (well I know how to attach them) what positions? Do I need to create + and - leads coming off the PS for each drive? If do where does the ground go? Told everyone this was going to be interesting. LOL I looked for some sort of schematic for the board, but could not find any examples of what I trying to do. HELP!
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jedimasterben
LED world domination!
Top row has your PWM inputs (1,2,3,4,5,G) and two power inputs (G,G,V,V). Bottom row has the five LED string outputs, going -,+,-,+ etc.
Stlouphil
Member
So, the the PWM inputs are for a dimmer or controller correct? The (G,G,V,V) are for the power supply source correct? From the power supply I have 3 wires. A green, blue and brown. I assume that those wires or at least 2 feed the (G,G,V,V). Which wires feed which connections? I know this is probably very simple, but I feel I'm in over my head. : O
I understand the LED side. That's pretty straight forward.
jedimasterben
LED world domination!
^ all of that. Plus the PWM source is required on those boards.
Or, a 5V constant to the PWM input for each channel, the board has a common ground for all the PWM signals. I just tied the two positives together on mine as well, as I don't really need 2 channels of royal blue. That will run the LED's are OMG are you kidding me BRIGHT!
Like mine are.
Stlouphil
Member
The green is ground to the wall plug, the blue I connected to white, and the brown to black. That side of the power supply is to get power from the wall. The other side has just red and black wires coming out, those attach to the LDD board.
Great, I had the wall side and the board side backwards? Lol this is not starting well. Oh my goodness. Thanks for saving me from possibly being electrocuted or at least frying my power supply. Sheesh. Actual LEDs will be here tomorrow so I will be able to play with before I actually mount them.
What gauge wire did you use? I have network cable laying around. Could I use the stripped colored wire or is the gauge too small? Thanks for everyone's help, I mean really thanks.
I used 20 gauge from Radio Shack, I am sure that is way bigger than what is required. I have read of people using network cable before.
Make sure you get a good soldering iron, mine is only 25W and it was a bit of a pain. Oh.... PRO TIP, pre tin the LED pads BEFORE you attached them to the heatsink. (Mine were already attached, and I am sure that is why I had a hard time.)
Make sure you get a good soldering iron, mine is only 25W and it was a bit of a pain. Oh.... PRO TIP, pre tin the LED pads BEFORE you attached them to the heatsink.
(Mine were already attached, and I am sure that is why I had a hard time.)
jedimasterben
LED world domination!
I used 20 gauge from Radio Shack, I am sure that is way bigger than what is required. I have read of people using network cable before.
Make sure you get a good soldering iron, mine is only 25W and it was a bit of a pain. Oh.... PRO TIP, pre tin the LED pads BEFORE you attached them to the heatsink.
Nah, it's really because of the 25w soldering iron. Even an upgrade to a 40w iron would alleviate your woes
For running power to the LDD boards, I prefer to use 18-20AWG wire, and then if the LEDs are going to be more than a foot or two away from the drivers, then run 20AWG solid to them and use 24AWG for the LED to LED connections, but if the LEDs and drivers are close together, even 24AWG is fine. Smaller wire just means a larger voltage drop and shouldn't really be too much of a problem if you're only running 2-3x of the Luxeon M per LDD.
oreo57
Well-known member
Nah, it's really because of the 25w soldering iron. Even an upgrade to a 40w iron would alleviate your woes
got to agree here.. Boughyt a Hakko soldering station.. and I'm NEVER going back to anything else..
18ga solid copper thermostat wire for me for power to led strings.. Definitely overkill but why not..It is a bit stiff though
Using it between LED's works fine. ..a bit stiff and it can pop off a star because of this and ... bad solder joints..
Cat 6 is 23ga ... so a little better than cat5
Stlouphil
Member
Ok, all the components are here. I'm gathering all the materials to put this thing together. Here is the recap:
Goal is to put together a Royal Blue strip to supplement 2 - 250w Radiums on 48" 90gal tank. The strip will be placed on a heat sink ( 48" - 1" Aluminum angle metal with a 3/8" aluminum angle metal to be used as a heat dissipating fin) and placed at the front of the tank pointed towards the rock wall.
Power supply is a CLG-150-360A, a Coralux 5UP LDD driver board, 2 - LDD-1000h drivers with a third if need and 6 - Phllips Luxeon M Royal Blue - 12 Watt leds. 20 gauge wire to run all the LED's.
Remaining questions:
1) I'm using 6 LEDs. I'm considering 8. Will the power supply be capable of driving 2 more LEDs?
2) Should I use Thermal paste or "Adhesive" to mount the LEDs besides screwing them to the heat sink.
Thanks. Tomorrow night should be the might. Corals should be a "poppin!"
Goal is to put together a Royal Blue strip to supplement 2 - 250w Radiums on 48" 90gal tank. The strip will be placed on a heat sink ( 48" - 1" Aluminum angle metal with a 3/8" aluminum angle metal to be used as a heat dissipating fin) and placed at the front of the tank pointed towards the rock wall.
Power supply is a CLG-150-360A, a Coralux 5UP LDD driver board, 2 - LDD-1000h drivers with a third if need and 6 - Phllips Luxeon M Royal Blue - 12 Watt leds. 20 gauge wire to run all the LED's.
Remaining questions:
1) I'm using 6 LEDs. I'm considering 8. Will the power supply be capable of driving 2 more LEDs?
2) Should I use Thermal paste or "Adhesive" to mount the LEDs besides screwing them to the heat sink.
Thanks. Tomorrow night should be the might. Corals should be a "poppin!"
Stlouphil
Member
Or, a 5V constant to the PWM input for each channel, the board has a common ground for all the PWM signals. I just tied the two positives together on mine as well, as I don't really need 2 channels of royal blue. That will run the LED's are OMG are you kidding me BRIGHT!
Just "jumped" the positives of the 2 outputs on the LDD's?
What? no. You mis understood, he tied two pwm pins together.
you connect a 5v wall wart's positive to the PWM pin(s) to eneble them without a pwm controller, and connect the negative from the wall wart to the V in negative on the LDD board.
If in doubt post pics before powering up or you might blow the LDDs.
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1. yes, 3 luxeon Ms per LDD with 2 Luxeon Ms on the third LDD.
2. Thermal Paste if screwing them down, much better than adheasive (adheasive is pretty much permanent and not quite as good a heat conductor if not carefully applied.
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