Stlouphil
Member
The end caps? I thought it was pretty slick myself. Plus I have about 8 pairs laying around from the old days. :lmao:
Looking for 10W LED Help.
- Thread starter Poseidon
- Start date
The end caps? I thought it was pretty slick myself. Plus I have about 8 pairs laying around from the old days. :lmao:
Stlouphil
Member
Are you going to have all 3, T5, LED and Halide?
Naw, I'm going to remove the T5s. I just do not like the look of T5s. I'm running the ATI Blue Plus with the Radiums they look fine, but by themselves I think they just look goofy. Too artificial. Like you said in an earlier. There is something "dramatic" with a point source of light.
Stlouphil
Member
Ok this is crazy. I took the driver out for channel 2. Channel 1 came on. Flickered went on and off. Not the whole channel, but different lights. These are in series so if 1 goes out don't they all go out. They then all went out., but if I put my thumb on the + of 1 three came on. If I pit my thumb on the + of 2, 1 and three came on, but very dim. All the solder connections seem solid. What's up? :mad2:
I'm such a hack when it comes to DIY. Funny, my wife looks at me and says "You're SO smart!" :lolspin: The real test is when I go upstairs with thermal compound all over the front of my jeans and she says "What's that white cream all over the front of your pants?!!" :mad2::eek1:
Well, mounted the LED's. Not very pretty. I have this fear that they will pop off into the tank sometime. I think I'll put a little dab of silicone on each side for peace of mind. Next is to work on the wiring. Will work on that this evening.
made me laugh out loud! Connections look pretty secure to me though.
LOL! I get it. Soldering is not easy, and I am not happy with the joints I did. I really miss my Ungar work station, it was stolen from my storage unit about 18 months ago.Being able to set the temp, from 700-900 degrees was quite handy.
Darn, I'd be lucky if my $12 parts express special solder station can even hit 500 degrees and it works just great for all my projects :lol:
Get out the multi meter and test for shorted connections with the continuity/diode test setting. You almost certainly have several sorts to the heatsink.
oreo57
Well-known member
One thing I always check.. Take a D-VOM set to ohms.. See if it lights an LED (most will light one but dimly).. Then check each LED.. first on plus and neg on alum. pad side and/or heatsink.. Repeat reversing to negative..
Sometimes the LED wire/solder will bridge to the heatsink/star.. causing a current leak..
May or may not apply but I check every one this way..
pos to base and then neg to base..Not sure that is clear..
If any light w/ the VOm on anything besides pad to pad.. rework he wiring..
So again.. put plus on the VOM to plus on the led, neg of vom to neg of the pad.. see if it dimly lights.. Then remove neg vom probe and touch aluminum side of led pad.. see if it lights.. Repeat w/ negative side..
As I said just something to eliminate..
oreo57
Well-known member
Guess the 2 of us are on the same page.. Only difference is I never had much luck w/ my meter and diode testing setting.. Using ohms (lowest setting) works for me.....
Stlouphil
Member
I'm sure there is a short or shorts against the heat sink. Those edges are pretty sharp and the wire probably has a couple nicks along the run.
Looking back on your photos I notice you had little rubber grommets in the hole where you wire passed through. Where do you get those?
Or maybe a wire with more protection. You used #18 is the casing thicker on that wire?
Yes, I used grommets, I had them from a previous project. I think they came from Radio Shack as well. I figured with all the aluminum, and having fresh drilled holes, it was a good idea, and it cleaned up the install a bit too.
Oh, I think it was 20 gauge, not 18, but I'm not sure now.
Oh, I think it was 20 gauge, not 18, but I'm not sure now.
Stlouphil
Member
Picked up some liquid tape today and painted the holes. Should protect the wires from the metal edges. Will rewire tonight. Practice makes perfect. Although, a ReefBrite fixture looks pretty good right now. I probably would have saved money. :sad2:
on my meter it's also the continuity setting so if you have a short it buzzes, same setting will light a typical 3volt LED but not a luxeon M. My meter doesn't generate enough voltage on any of the settings to light up more than one diode in series at a time.
Either way accomplishes the same thing.
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