This will be a hundred times brighter! (maybe a small exaggeration......) and just plan fun to be able to say I made that.
Looking for 10W LED Help.
- Thread starter Poseidon
- Start date
This will be a hundred times brighter! (maybe a small exaggeration......) and just plan fun to be able to say I made that.
Stlouphil
Member
Well this sucks. I took all the wiring out figuring I just had multiple shorts. I test each individual LED and all lit except one. Arrggh. I cleaned the leads and still could not get it to light. I guess I should have tested each light before I began the project. Lesson learned. That was the same light that was not coming on last night. So I guess I have to order another LED and this project extends into next week. :mad2:
BTW, this project better be worth it! :mixed:
BTW, this project better be worth it! :mixed:
It'll totally be worth it! Now you have the chance to order a couple extra, as a just in case I want more.
Stlouphil
Member
It'll totally be worth it! Now you have the chance to order a couple extra, as a just in case I want more.
Replacement LED coming today. Back to work on the project tonight. My wife is really getting irritated with the mess on the basement table. :lol:
It seems I read in a post you were a photographer? I have a white balance question. My Nikon D90 has the highest kelvin setting for white balance of 10k. How would I manually set white balance with a "grey card" in a reef tank? Haha. Can just point the lens at the tank and shoot and it will pick up the blue tint of the water? Point at a live rock with a blue tint? Any thoughts?
jedimasterben
LED world domination!
Don't worry about setting a white balance, shoot in RAW and adjust it in post. Otherwise, just play around. My camera, if shooting JPEG, gives the most real-to-life pics in 'warm white' setting.
Depends on the monitor you view them on after also, Most of my pics always look pretty much true to life on my screen at home but when I'm at work they are noticeably off. (work has better monitors, not that that really matters.)
On my rather old point and shoot I get decent results using the under water setting, or just setting white ballance manually off a piece of the white pvc pipe visible in the tank. Just play around till you find what comes out looking right.
On my rather old point and shoot I get decent results using the under water setting, or just setting white ballance manually off a piece of the white pvc pipe visible in the tank. Just play around till you find what comes out looking right.
Stlouphil
Member
Taking the white balance manually off a piece of PVC. Now that's a good idea. Why didn't I think of that. Doh!
It's still kind of cheating as the pipe looks kind of purple to my eye, but every one else says it's white
or egg crate in the frag tank. On my old camera it seems more about getting it to auto set the brightness and contrast properly during white blance setting (manual is really a bit of a stretch it's not all that sophisticated just an old Cannon SD400 from nearly a decade ago, more accurate would be manually locked auto white ballance) but takes adequate pics for me at least.
I usually use the brightest point I can find and then adjust the exposure settings to get the best color I can and contrast..........man I wish I had an SLR......
This.
I can't get my camera to capture what I see under strictly blue LED though, it just wasn't designed for that much blue.
I use Adobe Lightroom for 99% of my stuff.
oreo57
Well-known member
Use UniWB....
http://www.dslrbodies.com/cameras/camera-faq/what-is-uniwb.html
What exactly are you trying to do.. make it look like what you see or not???
Your brain does a lot of compensating and the tank may just really look like what the DSLR records..
but most likely it is "exposing" for green and then multiplying red and blue by it's "fudge factor" thus really screwing the color balance..
http://www.malch.com/nikon/UniWB.html
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Stlouphil
Member
Camera talk has been fun, but back to the more important stuff for the moment. :lmao: I replaced the bad LED and painted the aluminum holes with liquid tape (protecting wires from the sharp edges) and that has seemed to correct my shorting issues. Channel one is wired and BOY those suckers are bright!
Problem: They are flickering at a really high frequency. Whats with
that? :crazy1:
Problem: They are flickering at a really high frequency. Whats with
that? :crazy1:
oreo57
Well-known member
PWM can "flicker" LED's but usually only noticeable via camera ..(see more camera talk)
any dimming will create a pulsed output for some drivers.. frequency being design dependent..
At 100% there should be no flicker..
http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/content/pulse_width_modulation.htm
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Stlouphil
Member
Not using dimmer. Using phone charger for a 5v source. These are flat out 100%! :dance:
Stlouphil
Member
Now if I can get the flickering fixed. :uhoh3:
More than likely getting a pulsed current. Some chargers pulse rather than supplying constant voltage, a filter circuit would smooth it out if that is the case. probably just any old small capacitor and resistor you have lying around would suffice, but hopefully one of the more electronics savvy will chime in.
Otherwise one of the circuits they are using to convert 5v pwm to analog for the jeboa pumps would suffice. something like this, though I cant seem to find the exact one they've been quoting on that thread.
I don't know that the values of the components matter to much for your purpose though.
Otherwise one of the circuits they are using to convert 5v pwm to analog for the jeboa pumps would suffice. something like this, though I cant seem to find the exact one they've been quoting on that thread.
I don't know that the values of the components matter to much for your purpose though.
Stlouphil
Member
Must be another knick in the line.
You = Ground I guess.
It is not an intermittent flicker. There is a consistent/constant frequency to it. If it was a short it seems it would be more intermittent. Well I am going to solder the second channel. Hopefully I get a definitive answer. Tank goodness for Tapatalk!
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