Looking for 10W LED Help.

I am in good shape I got a 5UP board. Partly because of my personality. I new once this was done I would not be satisfied. :lolspin: Now those you have to add optics. I assume by default they are 120 degrees, but if you are only going with 2, going without the optics might be a better choice. More spread and they appear dimmer to the eye so they will not blow you out of the room like royal blues.

Do you remember the days of the black light, when it was cool to light up a room with them........... :lolspin:
 
I decided against the reflectors. They basically reduce the spread from 90 to 60 degrees. My LED's are much closer to the water than your. I think the reflectors would basically give the tank the look of having 6 blue spot lights on the tank. If the were higher the spread would be better. Maybe I'm over this. What I have now BLOWS AWAY the T5's both in intensity and look.

That is what it is all about! I am glad that you are happy with them. No for the Violets... I slept on it, and still came up with 2 options. LOL
 
2 options? Uh? You can't throw that out there and take off! You can't leave me hanging like that. Lol What are you thinking about doing!!!!
 
LOL!!!

2 of the really high output Violets, that are a lot like the Luxeons we have, or 8 of the 3W Violets from Steve's. I could run either option from our power supply and a single LDD700. Oh... And I KNEW I should have ordered that 5 up board, but decided to go small instead.d
 
I need more! Lol I'm running 6 - 12w Luxeons on 2 LDD1000's and a CLG 150 36A power supply. Will the power supply be able to handle another 6 - 12w Luxeons on an additional 2 LDD1000's? I'm thinking of putting together another "tube" of Royal Blues and Violets for the back of the tank. Might as well. The second build will just be the price of the parts. All the other materials and tools have already been purchased. :lmao:
 
11.4 x 3 = 34.2 add 4 to be safe for the LDD = 38.2 since the CLG can go up to 41 you can run up to 3 of the luxeon Ms on each LDD-H driver. up to 150 combined watts worth!

8 luxeon Ms factoring in LDD voltage drop will draw around 103-105 watts from the CLG leaving plenty of room for future expansion as you can draw the full 150 watts from it!

The full 150 watts worth of Luxeon Ms with reflectors would be a tremendous amount of PAR! Keep in mind that SPS can aclimate to over 1000PAR given time and the appropriat photo period. More light shorter photo period, less light longer photo period.

If not dimming just raise the lights for acclimation or use egg crate as we would have done a decade ago, :lolspin:

Here you go Phil, I knew it was in here somewhere.
 
I'd say 5 to be safe.

That would be a LOT of PAR, since these will be in the back, I'd do 4, 2 per 24" section of your tank.
 
I'd say 5 to be safe.

That would be a LOT of PAR, since these will be in the back, I'd do 4, 2 per 24" section of your tank.

I think I am going add 2 of the 12watt redistribute the eight by putting 4 in the front 4 in the back and distribute violet through out. Now it's a matter going with 3w violets or upgrading the power supply and going with the "mega" violet chips.

Now that i know what I'm doing, kinda, I should not take long to rewire. I forgot I asked this questions before. :lmao: Thanks for looking through all those posts.
 
Otherwise Steve's LED is clearing out of their current stock and their V2 violets are pretty decent if you run them under 500mA and keep them cool (350mA if they will be getting hot like on the same heatsinks as your M's) But you can run a ton of them and parallel wiring would be just fine (three strings on a 1000mA LDD I'd not worry about too much, just do some balancing and install 500mA fuses on each string) That would let you run in the ball park of 3 or so of them off a single additional LDD using a 36v PSU)

Low current is the key in most of the violets available to ensure long life span, at least when you look at the less expensive versions out there. RapidLEDs can run all day long at full power and get just as hot as my other chips with no issue, though but that is the exception to most of what is available right now, (Can't wait for the violet Luxeon Z to get affordable and readily available) So I would also expect the same results from the chips sold by ReefLEDlab (same chips but better bins, I've got no experience with their stuff yet though)
:beer:

I posted a new thread in DIY about violets and I Just remember you posted this pretty lengthy explanation. Sheesh. Must be age creeping up on me. :hammer:

I looked at Steve's violets that are being discontinued. They had some that they said could be run at 1000ma all day long. Question, if I go with 30 or 15 on each side of the back of the tank will that be enough to make a difference with the 2 Radiums and 6 Luxeon Royal Blues? What are your thoughts?
 
They emit little visible light that you will never be able to see if the M or halide are ever on. Fluorescence can also be drowned out (which is what happens when your halide flips on, the fluorescence from the LEDs is much less pronounced). Does that mean that corals can't be more colorful? No, but I'm not sure of any non-fluorescent colors that corals produce that absorb or require violet light.
 
I posted a new thread in DIY about violets and I Just remember you posted this pretty lengthy explanation. Sheesh. Must be age creeping up on me. :hammer:

I looked at Steve's violets that are being discontinued. They had some that they said could be run at 1000ma all day long. Question, if I go with 30 or 15 on each side of the back of the tank will that be enough to make a difference with the 2 Radiums and 6 Luxeon Royal Blues? What are your thoughts?

That will certainly make a dent, likely not immediately drastic with the halide on but that will enahnce flourescenc especially over time. You should be able to see the difference with all LEDs on. Not to mention the added PAR that the corals can use for growth.

I think he is sold out of the dual core that were 1000mA capable. He'll be getting a new chip in, in a few months so is trying to sell out at a good discount. I'd runn two strings of the normal V2 violets in parrelel of another LDD 1000. Won't be perfectly ballanced but add a 700mA pico fuse to each string and no problems.

I would also distribute between front and back of tank if you're adding two rails.
 
Would 8 be to few to run on the CLG? I have room for 4 on each tube, or maybe I will go with 2 of the Reef LED lab on a 700...

Decisions decisions. LOL
 
Would 8 be to few to run on the CLG? I have room for 4 on each tube, or maybe I will go with 2 of the Reef LED lab on a 700...

Decisions decisions. LOL

too few, or too many? violets/royal blues....which, what, where, when.........

:)

off the CLG you have you can only run 3 Luxeon M per LDD driver, but can run as many or few as you want up to the 150 watt rating of the CLG.
 
They emit little visible light that you will never be able to see if the M or halide are ever on. Fluorescence can also be drowned out (which is what happens when your halide flips on, the fluorescence from the LEDs is much less pronounced). Does that mean that corals can't be more colorful? No, but I'm not sure of any non-fluorescent colors that corals produce that absorb or require violet light.

Thanks Jedi. The M's even with the halides on make a significant difference in the florescence of the colors. Although, the halides wash a lot, but not all of the blue out. See the photos I posted.

That will certainly make a dent, likely not immediately drastic with the halide on but that will enahnce flourescenc especially over time. You should be able to see the difference with all LEDs on. Not to mention the added PAR that the corals can use for growth.

I think he is sold out of the dual core that were 1000mA capable. He'll be getting a new chip in, in a few months so is trying to sell out at a good discount. I'd runn two strings of the normal V2 violets in parrelel of another LDD 1000. Won't be perfectly ballanced but add a 700mA pico fuse to each string and no problems.

I would also distribute between front and back of tank if you're adding two rails.

Now the question is am I just chasing phantoms. I have added a significant amount of light to my tank. I just remember the days of VHO actinics. The blue and the glow. Maybe I'm just never satisfied. I guess I should always remember there is ALWAYS someone that has one BIGGER than yours.:lolspin:

This morning I was thinking of add a couple of RB M's and some violets and distributing it between 2 rails, but if I cannot significantly improve the health of the livestock and the look of the tank why bother. If I can they additional effort is worth it.

Do you think the tweak is worth the effort?
 
PWM can "flicker" LED's but usually only noticeable via camera..
This is depend not on PWM itself, but dependent on frequency of PWM. For low-cost drivers and controllers this frequency may be low and flickering may be noticeable for naked eye also.
 
The "last" ok "most recent" part of the puzzle:

Front of the board.


Back of the board.

I soldered a jumper on the back of the board because the LDD ground coming from the project box is a single wire. (Soldered a jumper in there too.)

I didn't expect this, but the O2Surplus board fades in when power is applied, neat touch. ;) The price was certainly right, for $17 + Shipping, I have a simple 4 channel dimmer. Right now I have left and right on separate channels, but I can always put them on a single if I need too.

Now, on to the violets.... :D
 
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