looking for a cheap ATO

[is_that_a_fish]

so im looking for a cheap ATO system, and i dont really want to do a DIY, since ive read it can be unsafe, so my mind is made now. i know people just splice an extension cord and put a float swithc on it, but i dont really want to do that.

so if any of you have a ATO system for sale, or know someone who does, please point me to that direction.


and btw, it cant be more than 40 dollars.

thanks.

 

[james3370]

these are pre-assembled so all you do is plug the ATO pump into them & put em in the tank or sump & adjust. single float versions are $39 & dual-float versions are $50
http://www.autotopoff.com/products/

you'll still need a pump tho...the aqualifter is the most widely used one
http://www.autotopoff.com/pumps/aw20/

if you want dual-float for under $40, you're gonna have to put a few things together, but this kit from BRS has EVERYTHING needed is very easy to do. they have the aqualifter pump too
ato: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/Auto-Top-Off-Systems/c72/p360/Top-it-Off-Kit-Premium/product_info.html
pump: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/Auto-...VACUUM-PUMP-((TOP-OFF-PUMP)/product_info.html

 

[NeveSSL]

You can DIY one correctly and it will work fine. To be honest, cutting an extension cord and wiring in a pump is down right stupid. I know you know that, but for others who may consider it, putting 110v through your tank is asking to be killed when it leaks current, IMO.

Now back to the subject at hand, unless someone has a used one, you will be hard pressed to find an ATO for $40 or less without doing a bit of work yourself. They're easy to DIY or just assemble one of the kits, though. And James has already provided some great links to consider.

Brandon

 

[james3370]

the single-float above will work, but personally, the extra $11 to get the dual-float is worth the insurance it provides.....

 

[is_that_a_fish]

yea, i know what you mean. a lot of people seem to just splice an extension cord and hook up a float switch to it. and since a lot of people do it, they think its right. well, i actually want to get it right, since the tank is only a 5.5 gallon, any malfunction would be disastourous.

ive seen both of those ATO systems you linked, but im not sure which one i'll go with, if i do decide to go with one. im an ok diy'er, but im leaning toward the autotopoff.com one, since its plug and play. im first gonna cycle my tank, then buy a refractometer, then the ATO. thanks.

PS, if anyone does see one for sale, LMK. thanks again.

 

[Pickupman66]

I made mine. did a gravity system with a float valve. this was the simplese and cheapest way for me. dont have to worry about any electricity and you never know it is there.
Cant remember where I bought the float valve from, but allI had to do was drill a hole in the sump and mount this valve thru it. ran the tubing under my house and into the garage where i have a large clear rubermaid bin that my RODI puts water into. once a week I turn on the rodi and fill the bin in about an hour or two. works great. never had an issue with it. Keep in mind though, that if you have auto top off, and you ever lose water going into your sump, it will drain the bin and overflow your tank. so keep just what your tank can handle in the bin. for me that is about 12 gallons.

 

[is_that_a_fish]

cool man. do you think you could post a diagram, or some pictures. i would like to see your float valve if thats possible. thanks.

 

[MVlk]

Pure Water Club has some of the cheapest prices on float valves and fittings and their shipping is free. I have two of their float valves and one has been in use in my water reservoir for 9 months without issue. I have heard people say that they can stick occasionally but I have not had an issue. I have one spare that I am not likely to use any time soon if you want it. Also have some various spare connectors and a Aqua Lifter if you go the kit route.

http://www.purewaterclub.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=65_86&products_id=196

 

[andywe]

I have several, and the Aquahub is my favorite. 12vdc and it works well. they also consider the waterproofing aspect of the float which the others don;t do as well. DOuble float for added layer of managing a failure is good, plus the mold a holder is really cool and lets you fit yuor application perfectly.

 

[Pickupman66]

ok. so im gonna try to give you a diagram.

here is the valve I use. it is cheap and has never failed in 3 years. very simple, but keep in mind, this is a gravity system, so you must have the top of water above the sump. this one requires you drill a hole in the sump. mine is acrylic so it was easy. if you have glass, you will have to make something to mount it to.

http://www.floatvalve.com/mini-floatvalves.html

this may work for that application.
http://www.virtualvillage.com/adjustable-plastic-float-valve-aquarium-level-control/sku001490-066

I cant actually find a photo of the float valve installed, but you get the jist. I have the rodi system setup to fill directly into my resivoir. like I said, I run it about an hour or two a week.

 

[is_that_a_fish]

ok, thanks man. it looks simple enough. thanks. im going to try that first before any of these kits. thanks again.

 

[cee]

Pickupman's approach is the same one I've used for 6 or 7 years now. Kent make the float valve. Remember, gravity has never failed in any human's lifetime (so far as we know)

 

[aquaman67]

There's an even simpler elevated system that uses a sun tea jar.

You cut two holes in the lid and attach two air lines. One air line must go into the water in the jar the other can just end at the lid.

The line that doesn't go into the water in the sun tea jar is placed just above where you want the water level in the sump (or tank)

As the water siphons out of the sun tea jar and fills the sump, the water in the sump covers the end of the second line and stops air from going into the sun tea jar, stopping the flow of water out of the jar.

As the water level in the sump drops, the siphon gets air and starts going again.

It doesn't have to be a sun tea jar, but it has to be rigid. A milk jug for example, would just collaspe.

 

[Pickupman66]

your right.. gravity dont fail. the only issue I have had with mine is if I let the water in the reservoir get below the little drain. for some reason when I get air in that line, it will stop the flow. to remedy, I just undo the line at the valve and suck on it a bit to get the water flowing again. do that and its all good.

 

[Pickupman66]

OH yea, one other thing, get hte one with the adjustable arm. this gives you alot of flexibility on how you set it and if you have a tight space.

 

[rezaktp]

You can use a 5 gallon salt bucket as a reservoir, a $13 aqualifter as a pump and a $14 digital light timer from lows. Can't get much cheaper that that!

 

[NeveSSL]

Can't get much cheaper, but could be much more accurate than that for about the same money. A timer would work, but would take forever to tweak. Not worth the effort, I don't think. But to each his own.

Brandon

 

[andywe]

LOL..love all this old school low tech stuff...
I will stick with my float switches and bucket o water hidden..and at sump level so if there is a failure gravity does not overflow my sump...only if 3 switches fail at the same time will I have a flooded sump. There are many ways to do this.

 

[Pickupman66]

Low tech Red Neck. YEA BABY! my tank is likely one of the most low tech around. well, except hte new fans for the hood. Ordered a 4 pack of super quiet ones with blue LED'S. talk about a nice moon glow now. for my system to overflow, I have to have the valve stick open and then power to go out. valve has never stuck.. But yea, to each his own.... Good luck in your build. your welcome to come see mine if you need to for ideas.