Looking for advice, 130x30x30 inbound (long read)

Easttuth

New member
A quick little back story to give perspective.

I live closer to Orlando but the board there isn't nearly as active and I value many of the options here so I decided to post here instead. I have had tanks for 12 years, almost all of them have been 220g fish only tanks. I recently tried a mixed reef but didn't get the benefit compared to the work. I prefer fish to coral and think the amount of money and work involved are much less so I've decided to do this tank as a fish only for now. I can see myself adding soft coral at some point for color and movement but that isn't the plan day 1.

The tank has been ordered but they are 8-12 weeks out so changes can be made. I decided to go with 130x30x30. 130 because that's the length most glass comes and it isn't that much more than going a little smaller. I went with 30" high so reaching the bottom was still relatively easy. 30" deep for no particular reason. I figured I can reach everything if it's only 30" deep, but I considered 36". I didn't want less than 30" so I would have plenty of room for structures and the fish. I went with 1 overlfow box in the back/center. 2-1in and 2-1.5in holes. The tank is going on a 14ft wall. Iron stand being built by the tank builder.

Here is a list of what I expect to use:

6-8 powerheads. I prefer Jebao. Tons of flow and much cheaper than Vortech.

5000-6000 GPH between 2 return pumps. Probably Reeflo Snapper Hybrid.

Warner Marine Skimmer I already have. I spoke with Fuzzy about a skimmer he was going to sell but was never able to meet up with him. If he's around I'd love to speak with him about the skimmer again.

Sump purchased from WWC. 6 sock filters, 6ft long.

Biopellet reactor. Open to suggestions.

UV Sterilizer. I've been told to talk to John at FAOIS about these.

Algae Scrubber. I'll probably make a home made version.

ATO and Auto Water Change similar to what Roger did.

I have no plans for lighting other than doing a traditional canopy though. I don't see the need for MH so that's probably out of the question.

I have about 500lbs of live rock that came out of a tank I purchased and broke down. I spoke with someone the other day and they highly suggested the methods used here:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1914426&highlight=rock+reincarnated

Even though I had live rock that is 7 years old, I like the idea of getting it clean so I know everything that's going into the tank.

I'm going to meet the guys at Aquafx in Orlando this week about a RODI system. I've only used 1 before so I'm up for suggestions here as I'm not partial.

Haven't given the sand much thought other than I'm going with less than I traditional have. When I started the hobby I was always told a deeper sand bed help stabilize the tank so that's all I've ever done, but I'm likely going the other way this time.

I have a quarantine system so I'll be running all the fish through that.



These are all just ideas at this point. I realize that there are a ton of people on this board that are more knowledgeable that I am and I'm willing to take advice on any topic. If you have any thoughts, ideas, suggestions, or see problems with anything I've listed please feel free to speak up. I've got a few more months before the tank gets here and even at that point I'm not in a super hurry. I'd rather take my time and do it right, that's a big reason for this thread now.


Thanks for any help you're willing to give.

Jeremiah
 
With a tank that big, go for two closed loops with darts and run your return with sea sweeps. That's a much better flow option than a bunch of cheap powerheads. Also, lighting that thing is going to be ungodly expensive with anything other than LEDs, and 30 inches is deeper than you think :)
 
With a tank that big, go for two closed loops with darts and run your return with sea sweeps. That's a much better flow option than a bunch of cheap powerheads. Also, lighting that thing is going to be ungodly expensive with anything other than LEDs, and 30 inches is deeper than you think :)

+1 I would not use the powerheads. With a fish only tank u could make it look so much cleaner with out the wires going every direction. If it ends up not being enough flow u could add 2-3 powerheads if needed after.

LEDs would be the only affordable way to light such a tank.


I would have probably gone with 2 over flow boxes. But u should be fine with 2 1.5 inch drains

U know my opinion on some of your other questions.

Good luck take lots of pictures. It will be one heck of a tank
 
With a tank that big, go for two closed loops with darts and run your return with sea sweeps. That's a much better flow option than a bunch of cheap powerheads. Also, lighting that thing is going to be ungodly expensive with anything other than LEDs, and 30 inches is deeper than you think :)

I've never had a closed loop system. I understand the basics but I'll have to research that a little more.

Any suggestions on LED lights?
 
What sort of fish are you interested in keeping?

I'm not tied to anything in particular. One of my favorite tanks is a guy in NJ that has roughly 40 wrasse and 40 other mixed fish. I loved the movement and was thinking about creating something similar.
 
I would have probably gone with 2 over flow boxes. But u should be fine with 2 1.5 inch drains

That was he hardest thing for me to decide. WWC has almost the same exact tank as this and they only have 1 overflow and I liked it. Every 220 I've ever had always had 2 overflow boxes on the back wall. I was leaning that way but figured it might create a dead spot between the drains that could be hard to get movement to. I'm very open to why one would be better than the other.

While visiting the tank builder they had a similar tank going that had 1 external box on one end. I hadn't given that much thought but it did make the whole tank useable. I wasn't sure of it being even flow throughout the tank.
 
I've never had a closed loop system. I understand the basics but I'll have to research that a little more.

Any suggestions on LED lights?

Do u have a budget for lighting?

That was he hardest thing for me to decide. WWC has almost the same exact tank as this and they only have 1 overflow and I liked it. Every 220 I've ever had always had 2 overflow boxes on the back wall. I was leaning that way but figured it might create a dead spot between the drains that could be hard to get movement to. I'm very open to why one would be better than the other.

While visiting the tank builder they had a similar tank going that had 1 external box on one end. I hadn't given that much thought but it did make the whole tank useable. I wasn't sure of it being even flow throughout the tank.

I was just thinking about safety, surface skimming. I agree I like the open look. I would have probably gone with 2 large ghost over flows if u want a lot of room.

Roger
 
I don't truly have a budget. I'm not looking to throw away money but this is my dream tank and I willing to spend what it takes to make it nice.
 
What type of drain system are you going to use? I suggest going coast to coast. That's an awful lot of surface area to skim for just one overflow box. I would want to be absolutely certain that the entire top layer gets skimmed off.
 
I don't truly have a budget. I'm not looking to throw away money but this is my dream tank and I willing to spend what it takes to make it nice.

Well lots of options for led if it was me I would go with the kessil 360 w there spread is very wide. Would be plenty of light for softies if u decide to. They r small and clean looking. U would probably need 5 but u might be able to get away with 4
 
Someone had a 10' tank lit with 3 of them - not enough for coral throughout the tank, but visually the coverage was pretty good. I think if you hang them high enough over the tank you could get away with 4.

I am personally not a fan of closed loop setups - if you end up doing a peninsula style setup you will have no choice, but they are failure prone and require regular maintenance. Since it's not an SPS tank I would probably do 4 of the Jebaos or 2 MP60s and 2 MP40s. I think that, combined with your returns, will be plenty of flow.

The external coast to coast overflow would be my choice assuming it isn't cost prohibitive - the inside of the tank looks cleaner and it will provide more effective surface skimming.
 
You could always build your own light with led kit .....I built mine for around 300 for a 90 gallon tank and I nuke stuff on the sand with how bright it is the whites are turned down to around 20% because of bleaching so that being 24 in depth plus 8" above the water you might be OK on a 30" deep tank and I don't use optics .....
 
I have no experience with building a led kit. Was it difficult and was it worth the time?


I have been checking into the closed loop system as well as the sea swirl. I'm liking the idea of both of them. It seems like I could get a ton of movement between the two without using many or possibly any powerheads. I can't find many builds with closed loop systems. I was looking for different ways to set it up.
 
On bigger tanks I don't think it's worth the time commitment. You would save some money for sure, but when you're building a 10' system I don't think it's really worth it overall.

Sea swirls are great for sure.
 
I have no experience with building a led kit. Was it difficult and was it worth the time?


I have been checking into the closed loop system as well as the sea swirl. I'm liking the idea of both of them. It seems like I could get a ton of movement between the two without using many or possibly any powerheads. I can't find many builds with closed loop systems. I was looking for different ways to set it up.

For a first time build and changing things as I went for a 4' light with64 LEDs three drivers that's are dimmable .....blue .white .pink . UV .red. Green. Violet. Growing sps no problem I built the heatsink from home depot using aluminum c channel wire them and solder maybe 15 hours total and the best is you can change things if you want ....IMO you can get the larger amount of leds for a little more money then what I paid they have kits with triple the amount LEDs .....you could probably build a light for around 1000.00
 
+1 to closed loops. Both of our 120"x36"x36" fish-only displays are lit by 3 Evergrow IT2040 fixtures (or some equivalent) with no optics. The coverage is surprisingly good, but I recommend 4.
 
Back
Top