Lost a lot of fishes. Trying to save the rest. Please help.

Phanster

New member
Sorry for the long post. I'm at a lost to what caused this so I'm trying to list as much details as I can.

Tank Setup:
I have 3 display tanks plumbed together (150G, 40G, 40G) with a 55G refugium/sump. Approximately 300lbs of live/base rocks, 300lbs of sand. SRO 3000 Protein Skimmer and GFO/Carbon reactor. Tank is about 1 year old.

Livestock (had):
150G: 2 yellow tangs (~4"), 1 sailfin tang (~4"), 1 rabbitfish (4"), 3 heniochus (~3"), 1 Cardinal (2"), 2 Perc Clownfish (3"), 1 Fathead Anthias (2"), 1 Moray Eel (18")
40G: 2 Green Spotted Puffers (3"), 1 hawkfish (4"), 2 Perc Clownfish (3")
40G: 2 yellow gobies (3"), 1 mystery wrasse (4")
QT: 1 tusk fish (6"), 1 copperband butterfly (3"), 1 coral beauty (3")

My fishes were infected with Crypt about 4 months ago, which started with the heniochus and spread to all the fishes. Unable to catch all the fishes, I moved all my corals and invertebrates out and did hyposalinity (1.010) on my tank for 2 months. The live rock and sand bed die-off did cause an ammonia spike which required lots of water changes. I lost one dwarf angel and a jawfish, treated one yellow tang and the wrasse for bacterial infection but they recovered along with the rest. After 2 months, I slowly raised the salinity to 1.025 and all fishes were in good shape.

About 3 weeks ago, I purchased 1 tusk fish, a copperband, and a coral beauty - placed them in QT while starting them off in hypo. Shortly afterward, the heniochus (again) started exhibiting signs of crypt and the tangs started flashing. They also started eating much less. Unable to catch them, I began hypo on the main tanks again. 2 weeks passed, the heniochus began to show excessive slime. I then made the biggest mistake which I really regretted - I moved the 3 new fishes from QT into the main as they're all at hypo (1.010).

The tusk fish became listless after 1 day, started producing excessive slime, stopped eating, heavy breathing, and had white stringing feces. The tail fin started to fray a bit. I took the tusk out after 1 day and began treating it with Furan-2. It's condition worsen and it died 2 days later in QT tank.

All 3 heniochus were moved out to the QT at the same time as the tusk fish. They developed severe blistering and open sores all over the body and mouth. There were a great deal of slime/mucus, some which covers one of the fish's mouth. The first one died 1 day after introducing the tusk fish, 2nd one died the day afterward. The last heniochus died 5 days later. They also had swollen/red gills.

The coral beauty didn't eat in the main tank for 3 days, then lied sideway on the 4th. I took it out to QT that day, but it died a few hours later.

Since the 3rd/last heniochus showed some improvement when I first treated it with Furan-2, I decided to apply this to my main tanks to save the fishes in there. Perhaps this is my 2nd fatal mistake. With over 200 gal., I was only able to source 2 day treatment from my local stores. I then found BiFuran+ bulk, and switch to that. 200g per day, 40 to 80 gallon water change daily with prime to address the detectable ammonia. In my last 60 day hypo, I noticed a dozen snails and micro hermit crabs which I wasn't able to relocate did fine at 1.010 salinity. However, the BiFuran killed every one of them within a day which caused my water deteriorate.

2 days into the BiFuran treatment (~4 days since adding the Tusk fish), all 4 clownfishes showed excessive slime and heavy breathing. It also showed some skin blistering and severe hemorrhaging under the skin on the dorsal. All 4 died by the 4th day of BiFuran treatment.

I'm now at the 7th day of antibiotic treatment (2 days Furan-2, 5 days BiFuran). The only fishes that eat are the 2 puffers. Both the copperband and the wrasse had died this morning. I'll try to post the pictures but the copperband looked like it had internal bleeding. I didn't see any noticeable on the wrasse.

I'm really worried about my remaining fishes. My eel which hasn't eaten in 10 days has been lying in one spot breathing hard. One of my yellow tang, although still active, starts to have brown spots on the side skin which differs than it's night color. The hawkfish is becoming listless and breathing hard - similar to the wrasse yesterday before it died.

There's no sign of crypt anymore except for a flash once a while from the tangs - but they're in hypo now for almost a month. The hypo likely caused the deterioration in water quality that likely caused a bacteria outbreak. The excessive slime, heavy breathing, quick death seems like Brooklynella - but not all my fishes shows symptoms or have died... yet. Velvet perhaps? I won't be able to obtain Formalin for a week as I can't find any locally. And I would only be able to treat the really sick ones as I can't catch the rest. I can't do copper treatment as they're all in hypo and raising the salinity would take at least a week - plus having to catch them. I'm planning on a major water change tonight and add carbon to remove the BiFuran. The following day - start on Metronidazole and Maracyn-2 if I can find enough to treat the main tank. Please let me know if you have any suggestions.
 
Here are my parameters using API Saltwater Master Kit. Some of the colors are really difficult to see due to very yellow BiFuran treatment.
pH: ~7.8
Ammonia: ~0.25 ppm
Nitrite: 0 ppm
Nitrate: 0 ppm
Salinity: 1.010

Unless my test kit is really off, the Ammonia hasn't exceeded 0.25ppm - which I know is still bad. I've been doing at least 40G water change every day (80G when my RO filter catches up) and allowing 24hr aerating of the hypo mixture. A separate 1.026 mixture is made once a week, so that is at least 1 day old. I've also been adding 40ml to 80ml of Prime. I had buffered the pH to 8.2 using baking soda at start of hypo, but let it drop some when ammonia was detected.

This picture shows the heniochus with the tusk fish in the QT. Sorry for the quality, the Furan-2 made everything really dark and yellow. Heniochus shows excessive slime, open sores on body and especially the mouth. Tusk fish has excessive slime, heavy breathing, and brittle tail fin. They both have died.


This shows the last clownfish. It has lots of blisters, internal hemorrhages, and appears to be bloated.


This copperband died during last night. Signs of internal hemorrhages, scales coming off.



And this wrasse died this morning. Nothing really visible except it was breathing heavily earlier, and now seems to be a bit bloated.
 
Trying to condense a little, for my benefit. IMO, you are introducing too many fish in a short time. 1-2 fish with a couple weeks in between is would be more realistic. Especially larger fish, like the tusk.

I can't tell much from the pics; but the symptoms and timeline suggest brooklynella. Sloughing, peeling skin is the #1 visible symptom for brook. It also sounds like you still have crypt in your tank(s) as well. The CBB could have uronema,another deadly parasite that shows up occasionally. Maybe a bacterial infection too. The ammonia, as you noted, is also a problem. there should never be any measurable ammonia in an established tank and you are cramming fish into a QT and that is sure to cause ammonia problems. I really can't follow what happened when and I don't know how to suggesting salvaging what remains, but get them in a sterilized QT and re-post your current status.

It sounds like you bought fish while you still had a parasite infection; this is really asking for trouble.I really feel that everything is the result of stocking MUCH faster than your system will allow. Get what you have under control and everything else either sterilized of staying fishless for 9+ weeks. Then add a fish at a time, after 4+ weeks in the QT. I'd also read a good book on the hobby from cover to cover, I believe you should start at square one, slow down, and learn what to do before doing it. Folks are here to help; I think you really need to do some serious research on the hobby first.

Sorry if my post bounces all over, i have people hurrying me, the dog's barking, and am trying to at least get some message to you.
 
Thanks for helping identify some of the potential diseases as I'm likely dealing with quite a few. I'm made a lot of bad choices and trying to learn from them. I do have 6 QT tanks (10g -> 29g) and place whichever fish I'm able to catch in them. I do 50% daily water change, but they all have died within a day or two except for that one heniochus that lived for 5 days.

One of the yellow tang has died - the skin looks like it's bleached.


The other yellow tang now has dark patches and swims slowly on the bottom. Hawkfish and Zebra eel remains in one spot breathing very heavy. I won't be able to pull the eel out without hurting it (wraps under a big rock). I should be able to get the hawkfish to QT but how should I treat it? I may be able to catch the tangs or rabbitfish tomorrow as the BiFuran clears up and I can see better. They also seem to be getting slower...

I'm planning to catch the two green spotted puffers into QT and slowly take them to full freshwater. They were freshwater over a year ago, before going brackish and then full marine. Perhaps that would kill all the saltwater disease without killing them.
 
Background (shorter?):
The new fishes (Tusk, CBB, and Coral Beauty) were purchased after my Main Tank were clean for almost 4 months (60 days hypo, 14 days transition, 30+ days full salinity). New fishes were in QT for 3 weeks (7 days transition, 14 days at 1.010 salinity) with no sign of sickness. Some fishes in Main Tank started showing white spots and excessive slime when QT tank were at 1 week hypo. Took Main Tank to hypo within a week and added new fishes to Main Tank (new fish would have been QT for 3 weeks).

Analysis:
I'm guessing that my Main Tank still had crypt and some bacteria. Water was okay (0 ammonia and nitrite, 40ppm nitrate) when before and at hypo. I'm guessing the new fishes had Brooklynella and Uronema, which didn't show symptom while under hypo in QT for 3 weeks. When added to Main Tank, Brooklynella, Uronema, and the Bacteria infection rampaged and killed most of the fishes quick. Crypt spots went away in hypo. Ammonia creep to 0.25 when BiFuran was introduced to main tank.

Current Status:
I've changed 80 gallon of water and added carbon to pull the BiFuran out. Water is starting to clear up a bit, but I think it will be a while.

Hawkfish died last night. Nothing visible, the belly seems a bit whiter than usual.

Remaining Fishes:
Zebra Moray Eel: eyes are cloudy, breathing hard. I'll try to place a pipe in front of it, hopefully it will go inside so I can catch it out to QT.

Yellow Tang, Sailfin Tang, Rabbitfish, Cardinal: They're still swimming around but coming more to the front which means I might be able to catch them. Rabbitfish starts to show frayed fins.

2 yellow gobies: no visible problems other than they're not eating. They're usually burrowed under the sand and a big rock so hard to see and hard to catch.

2 Green Spotted Puffers: no visible problems, very active. Still eats although less. Will catch and add to QT today. Planning to drop salinity to full freshwater over next 3 days.
 
I've been reading up on Brooklynella and Uronema it seems like Formalin is the only treatment for it. I will receive a bottle of Formalin-MS by this Friday but I have a few questions.

1. It's said that the fish cannot have any open sores as Formalin will kill it in the bath. My sailfin tang is showing open sores and it's lips are receding showing what looks like teeth. Should I try a lower dose dip, bath, or very low long treatment? Or there's really no hope left for this fish and I should put it to sleep?

2. Scaleless fish are also not tolerable of the Formalin bath. The Green Spotted Puffers are scaleless - should I try it at lower dose or proceed with converting to freshwater?

3. Eels are said to not tolerate Formalin. Would this kill the Zebra eel? I read that the eel are known to have the ability to shed the slime and rid itself of crypt and brook. Should I have it in QT alone and wait it out or try the Formalin?

Thanks in advance.
 
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