low PH 7.8
- Thread starter Ronny#66
- Start date
chaseracing
Premium Member
I use Kent Marine Ph 8.3. this stuff works really well.
Maybe add calc every other day. Alternating to get your levels back in the normal range.
Once your Ph is back to 8.3 you will see all kinds of good stuff happening with your tank.
-=E=-
Maybe add calc every other day. Alternating to get your levels back in the normal range.
Once your Ph is back to 8.3 you will see all kinds of good stuff happening with your tank.
-=E=-
geekreef_05
New member
Calc, Alk and pH are all linked.
Your low Calc and low pH are probably linked; you should check your Alk and post results for interpretation.
Also, a pH of 7.8 isnt that bad at all. I used to run reef's at 7.9 cause thats how tap water came out in my area....and i had no ill effects.
Your low Calc and low pH are probably linked; you should check your Alk and post results for interpretation.
Also, a pH of 7.8 isnt that bad at all. I used to run reef's at 7.9 cause thats how tap water came out in my area....and i had no ill effects.
Never try to adjust your pH with buffers. pH is only affected by alkalinity and carbon dioxide. Make sure you have good flow in your tank and maintain your alkalinity and don't even worry about the pH. A daily 2 part calcium/alkalinity additive will help you maintain these levels.
Alkalinity is "buffer".
Two part additives are important for reef tanks but not FOWL or std FO tanks. Calcium has no direct impact on PH. Daily additions of any additive should only happen if your tank requires it (determined by testing).
PH will usually manage itself so long as you have a reasonable level of alkalinity and appropriate air exchange.
The std norm for alk is 7-11 dkh .. if your alk is 8 dkh then your OK but you might want to raise it a bit. One of my prior post in this thread has a link to a chemistry calculator that will help you determine how much alk you may want to add (make sure you use actual water volume vs tank size when using the calculator).
If you want to raise alkalinity baking soda works fine. Commercial buffers are mostly baking soda (bicarbonate), washing soda (carbonate) and a small amt of 20 mule team borate (borate/boron).
If you want to raise alkalinity baking soda works fine. Commercial buffers are mostly baking soda (bicarbonate), washing soda (carbonate) and a small amt of 20 mule team borate (borate/boron).
jdjeff58
New member
I found that opening my windows raises my pH 2-3 tenths. My pH is stable (windows closed) at 7.8-7.9 There is something to be said about the overall air quality in one's home. Ambient CO2 levels seem to have a direct effect on pH. The problem is that there aren't many days in which I want my windows open.
I too have been told (and have read by the experts) that my overall levels aren't all that bad. But they also say that it is important to check the calibration of your probe before trying anything to correct it....Personally, I never exclude the possibility that there could be an issue with the age and reliability of the calibration liquid. Most NIST lab grade pH solutions that I've worked with expire at 2 years. I don't think any store bought fluids will be any better than that.
Also...is it possible that I have diluted my solution along the way? It is necessary to clean the probe before calibration. It is important to rinse the probe with the same solution you intend to dip the probe in. If I just rinsed my probe (after cleaning it) with some DI water, it has to be rinsed again with my pH solution. If I don't do this, I will gradually dilute my calibration solution with the excess water on the probe.
Probes need to be cleaned and calibration checked every 30 days. This is an industry standard and will not be reliable unless this is done.
Probes do not have a unlimited lifespan. Many probes need to be replaced after only a year of service. Faulty probes that are near the end of their useable limit will begin to give erratic readings.
Some aquarium probe manufactures supply the wrong pH solutions. I just talked to a friend who got a leading aquarium pH probe manufactures' instrument and they only supplied 4 and 7 pH fluid. She didn't know any different so she calibrated it and just plunked it in the aqaurium. This will most definitely give false readings when dropped into a saltwater fish tank. For saltwater tanks, the probe must be calibrated between 7 and 10 or 7 and 9...whichever your probe manufacture suggests. The calibration slope for 'most' pH calibrators is different from 4 to 7 than it is for 7 to 10. If you calibrate your probe in either of these ranges, it will not be accurate in the other range. It will most likely produce an error of 2 to 3 tenths. Some pH meters compensate for this but they are more than likely industrial or lab grade and much more expensive. We monitor at 8, so we must calibrate below at 7 and above at 9 or 10.
I have some first hand experience with this and from what I've seen so far, calibration solutions are not 100% reliable. Many people do not understand the errors that could result if the proper techniques aren't utilized. These instruments are consumer grade instruments and have no need to adhere to industry standards. The margin for error is increased because of these facts.
But I'd just like to say that in light of all this, dosing your tank should be the absolute last resort. The problem could be right at the tip of your probe.
I too have been told (and have read by the experts) that my overall levels aren't all that bad. But they also say that it is important to check the calibration of your probe before trying anything to correct it....Personally, I never exclude the possibility that there could be an issue with the age and reliability of the calibration liquid. Most NIST lab grade pH solutions that I've worked with expire at 2 years. I don't think any store bought fluids will be any better than that.
Also...is it possible that I have diluted my solution along the way? It is necessary to clean the probe before calibration. It is important to rinse the probe with the same solution you intend to dip the probe in. If I just rinsed my probe (after cleaning it) with some DI water, it has to be rinsed again with my pH solution. If I don't do this, I will gradually dilute my calibration solution with the excess water on the probe.
Probes need to be cleaned and calibration checked every 30 days. This is an industry standard and will not be reliable unless this is done.
Probes do not have a unlimited lifespan. Many probes need to be replaced after only a year of service. Faulty probes that are near the end of their useable limit will begin to give erratic readings.
Some aquarium probe manufactures supply the wrong pH solutions. I just talked to a friend who got a leading aquarium pH probe manufactures' instrument and they only supplied 4 and 7 pH fluid. She didn't know any different so she calibrated it and just plunked it in the aqaurium. This will most definitely give false readings when dropped into a saltwater fish tank. For saltwater tanks, the probe must be calibrated between 7 and 10 or 7 and 9...whichever your probe manufacture suggests. The calibration slope for 'most' pH calibrators is different from 4 to 7 than it is for 7 to 10. If you calibrate your probe in either of these ranges, it will not be accurate in the other range. It will most likely produce an error of 2 to 3 tenths. Some pH meters compensate for this but they are more than likely industrial or lab grade and much more expensive. We monitor at 8, so we must calibrate below at 7 and above at 9 or 10.
I have some first hand experience with this and from what I've seen so far, calibration solutions are not 100% reliable. Many people do not understand the errors that could result if the proper techniques aren't utilized. These instruments are consumer grade instruments and have no need to adhere to industry standards. The margin for error is increased because of these facts.
But I'd just like to say that in light of all this, dosing your tank should be the absolute last resort. The problem could be right at the tip of your probe.
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The last sentence you wrote is the exact point I was trying to get across...
I realize alkalinity is a buffer, but IMO Kent Marine pH 8.3 is a poor choice of additives. Usually if someone is adding it, they are not checking their alk level. And only alkalinity should be adjusted, not pH. The 2 are closely linked, but you need to go by alk levels, not pH. A simple DIY baking soda solution will raise alk. A 2 part additive is a good idea for FOWLR tanks if they have a lot of coraline, it also helps promote coraline. I didn't say that calcium has an impact on pH. But if you are adding daily calcium, you should also be adding alkalinity. But I agree, it is important to check alk/ca levels weekly when using it.
Low pH: Causes and Cures
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-09/rhf/index.htm
A Simplified Guide to the Relationship Between Calcium, Alkalinity, Magnesium and pH
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-06/rhf/index.php
How to Select a Calcium and Alkalinity Supplementation Scheme
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/feb2003/chem.htm
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-09/rhf/index.htm
A Simplified Guide to the Relationship Between Calcium, Alkalinity, Magnesium and pH
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-06/rhf/index.php
How to Select a Calcium and Alkalinity Supplementation Scheme
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/feb2003/chem.htm
aquarius77
In Memoriam
I would not give up, your ph is not seriously low. Look into making a kalk dripper to keep your top off up while you are away. Dripping kalk will keep your alk and calc in check and raise your ph all at the same time.
